A while back I offered my services on this forum.

[Dallas01]

nice post Tauruck....always nice when people share their expertise...much appreciated....

 

[SAfish]

:first:first:first

Mana for you, Brother!!

 

[Andre Laas]

Great Stuff Man!!!

Amped to see part 2... I have some silicone from AMT waiting to be used!!!

 

[Mazdadrifter]

Thanks for this info Tauruck. Manna to you.

 

[iggy]

Quick question, where part 2 ever posted? Cant seem to find it?

 

[AndriesH]

tauruck wrote:

In part 2 of the tutorial I'll show you how to insert mould "Keys", build the box, prep the whole surface for release and finally how to pour both sides of the new mould with the pouring runners in place. If you think I missed something or have any questions don't hesitate.

Part 2 will be posted in a week or so. Thanks fof allowing me this opportunity to share what I do everyday when I absolutely have to. Thanks to the mods (Homie) and Pieter Meintjies aka MazdaDrifter.

Watch this space, for thenext exciting episode of: "HOW DOES HE DO IT??"


Probably in a week or so.

 

[tauruck]

AndriesH wrote:

tauruck wrote:

In part 2 of the tutorial I'll show you how to insert mould "Keys", build the box, prep the whole surface for release and finally how to pour both sides of the new mould with the pouring runners in place. If you think I missed something or have any questions don't hesitate.

Part 2 will be posted in a week or so. Thanks fof allowing me this opportunity to share what I do everyday when I absolutely have to. Thanks to the mods (Homie) and Pieter Meintjies aka MazdaDrifter.

Watch this space, for thenext exciting episode of: "HOW DOES HE DO IT??"


Probably in a week or so.

Thanks Andries. Good one. "He does it with great difficulty"

 

[gut]

Thanks tauruck most interesting, looking forward to part 2

 

[sardinella]

Once again a super post on Sealine.
Thanks T

 

[ThefishinMagician]

tauruck wrote:

In part 2 of the tutorial I'll show you how to insert mould "Keys", build the box, prep the whole surface for release and finally how to pour both sides of the new mould with the pouring runners in place. If you think I missed something or have any questions don't hesitate.

Part 2 will be posted in a week or so. Thanks fof allowing me this opportunity to share what I do everyday when I absolutely have to. Thanks to the mods (Homie) and Pieter Meintjies aka MazdaDrifter.

How can you leave a person hanging... it was just getting interesting....

Nice Work Mikey !

 

[tauruck]

Part 2. Sorry guys, this is taking a little longer than expected. I had hoped to complete this today but had an emergency repair to do. We left off where the sinkers were all imbedded in the clay. This segment covers the mold keys (locators) and the sprue holes or down gates. Some of the pics are a little blurry for some reason and I had gone too far before I realized there was a problem.

 

[tauruck]

Step 20.

                       Time to mark the board for the mold keys. You can never have too many mold keys. These align the two halves of the mold. On the mold in question I found the positions fairly easily. Roughly marked with a pen.

 

[tauruck]

Closeup of marks.

 

[tauruck]

Step 21.

              Drill pilot holes. Use 4mm bit to start. Hand held drill or press work fine.

 

[tauruck]

Step 22.

             Pilot holes drilled. Now you have to find sutable material to use as mold keys. 10 or 12mm plastic beads from an old necklace or ball bearings are best. I found these plastic bits in the workshop. Not sure what they are but will do the job. These measured 12mm.

 

[tauruck]

Step 23.

               Carefully drill the board to the same size as the piece you've decided to use for a mold key. In the case of a bearing or bead don't drill deeper than 6mm but if you do you can use some clay to fill the hole etc.

 

[tauruck]

Step 24.

                Leave the keys for a little later. They will get in the way of you doing the sprue hole setup. Roll bits of clay into rough cylindrical shapes.

 

[tauruck]

Step 25.

               Offer the cylindrical clay up to the sinker. Try match the small end to the part of the sinker where the excess was originally trimmed. Work the clay into the board and try create a good seal. Keep it so that the widest part of the clay is at the place where it meets the board.

 

[tauruck]

Step 26.

                You can see in this pic that the sprue hole clay inserts look like a funnel. Once you have finished shaping and smoothing you can insert the mold key. I do it in this way to avoid the key getting in the way.

 

[tauruck]

Step 27.

              Here you can see the keys in place on the bottom part of the mold. I put them in position to keep them out of the way. They don't interfere with my working at all.