Shorter RODS for Kayaks/Ski's
- Thread starter zulu-X-treme
- Start date
zulu-X-treme
Sealiner
jopad wrote:
What isn't cool is that this could happen a few minutes into your fishing trip after paddling for a few hours, there goes your days fishing... :sha
While searching this morning for suppliers of the Penn Power stick range I noticed that this seems to be a common problem with these sticks, in S.A. and America. What is good about Penn is that it's a 'no questions asked' straight swop.
What isn't cool is that this could happen a few minutes into your fishing trip after paddling for a few hours, there goes your days fishing... :sha
zulu-X-treme wrote:
I have 6 x 7ft that I use for my 20lb trolling set up, and another 6 x 7ft as 20lb spinning outfits and these are probably the most used of all my rods and reels off-shore and I have had these 12 Penn power stick rods on my boat for around 2 years without any problem and these rods work hard on a charter and much more than any average fishermans rod.
zulu-X-treme
Sealiner
That's good to know Fishing Adventures, thanks for that...
zulu-X-treme
Sealiner
Well gents, here's 2 options I can scratch off my list, got this from Basil Manning a few minutes ago...
Herewith quotation of the rods that we can get for you. The Penn Power Stick has been discontinued and so has the Daiwa Monster Mesh...
Herewith quotation of the rods that we can get for you. The Penn Power Stick has been discontinued and so has the Daiwa Monster Mesh...
zulu-X-treme
Sealiner
Allright here we have it... Here's the 3 finalists... lol.
ROD ELBE SKI-PRO 5'6 + BAG
ROD ELBE BOAT TARPON-F2464-5A
ROD K/F STRIKER SF7 7-9KG 5.5
So considering 2 rods would be for trolling and 1 for bottoms and 1 for spinning, which would you choose?
ROD ELBE SKI-PRO 5'6 + BAG
ROD ELBE BOAT TARPON-F2464-5A
ROD K/F STRIKER SF7 7-9KG 5.5
So considering 2 rods would be for trolling and 1 for bottoms and 1 for spinning, which would you choose?
zulu-X-treme wrote:
The elbe ski pros and KF strikeforce rods are nearly identical, so take the cheapest
This is what Ive done. I took a KF strikforce sf6, and converted it to a spinning outfit by replacing the first two eyes with bigger ones. You can do the same with an sf7, which is actually shorter than the sf6. Honestly, I would take the strikeforce rods, just because I like them. But Im sure any of those rods would serve you well
I had an elbe ski pro 10-16kg. Eyes rusted easily, but it was a good rod. The reel seat's threads eventually got stripped so I replaced it with another strikeforce
The elbe ski pros and KF strikeforce rods are nearly identical, so take the cheapest
This is what Ive done. I took a KF strikforce sf6, and converted it to a spinning outfit by replacing the first two eyes with bigger ones. You can do the same with an sf7, which is actually shorter than the sf6. Honestly, I would take the strikeforce rods, just because I like them. But Im sure any of those rods would serve you well
I had an elbe ski pro 10-16kg. Eyes rusted easily, but it was a good rod. The reel seat's threads eventually got stripped so I replaced it with another strikeforce
Fishing Adventures wrote:
I have had no issues with my Penn Powerstick as of yet.
I have also not had any problems with my Powerstick rods either and they have served me extremely well! They get hammered in the ski regularly and the eyes have never failed not once in over a year, even considering that they stay rigged and are just rinsed off with a hosepipe when i get home and left to drip dry. I also use 2 Elbe Ski Pro rods and have also never had to replace any guides since i bought them, they recieve exactly the same treatment as the the others. In fact one even took a 30m swim to the bottom one morning when a small couta got out of hand at the hatch. I was very fortunate to retreieve it with my couta trace on a handline! As long as you rinse everything off properly with fresh water when you get home and never put anything away damp even these cheap rods are going to last you a long time!
And besides, lets be honest and look at the big picture here, guys we are talking about CHEAP rods here that are going to be abused on a paddle ski. The simpler the rod the better, hence why I like the ski pro rods as the guides dont have inserts that can be knocked out by a flapping couta or vibrating tunny in the hatch.
And besides, lets be honest and look at the big picture here, guys we are talking about CHEAP rods here that are going to be abused on a paddle ski. The simpler the rod the better, hence why I like the ski pro rods as the guides dont have inserts that can be knocked out by a flapping couta or vibrating tunny in the hatch.
zulu-X-treme
Sealiner
That's good news concerning the Ski Pro's as that is what I have settled with... Thanks for all the feedback guys, it's much appreciated... 
zulu-X-treme
Sealiner
Hey guys found this excellent article... (I got permission to post pieces)... lol.
Fishing from a Kayak
By Tom Watson
In a broad sense, Mankind has always found a way to wet a line, so in that regard, fishing from a kayak is the same as fishing from any watercraft. However, the challenges associated with a particular craft, is what adds a touch of adventure to this sacred outdoor ritual.
From an historical perspective, kayaks have been used for fishing for several millennia. By the time the Russian fur hunters overran the western coastal areas of Alaska, courageous kayakers were running down and slewing whales with poison-tipped harpoons and arrows. Now there's a 'catch of the day'!
Russian Orthodox priests recorded much of what is known about Native history in the mid to late 18th Century Alaska. Their notes and drawings show kayakers fishing for the huge, barn door flatfish halibut - from kayaks lashed in tandem side by side. Once a huge fish was hooked and hauled to the surface, it was clubbed and probably tied alongside the kayak.
Fishing is possible from any kayak although narrower, sleeker boats and most surf skis are just too nimble for any serious attempts. The sit-on types have flaunted their use as stable fishing platforms since they were first introduced a few decades ago. Today, some come with fishing contraptions installed from bow to stern. These and the wider, more stable "recreational" kayaks actually tout fishing as one of their main uses clearly marketing to this popular activity. For those who fish from sit-on's, and to a lesser degree, the wider, big-cockpit designed rec' boats, fishing is similar to that undertaken from a canoe or small skiff. It's when you fish from a conventional sea kayak that the game gets a little more exciting...
That brings up the issue of fishing rod length. Some suggest a short rod that is basically an extension of hand jigging (a form preferred by many). While the short rod keeps all the action within a few short feet of the cockpit, it is way too short if a larger catch decides to run -- as is often the case with most game fish. Unless your rod tip can be swung completely around the kayak, beyond bow and stern, a fish cutting right angle escape routes under your cockpit will take your rod with it. Swinging a complete circle around your kayak assures you of being able to keep control of your catch no matter where it runs. I know some kayakers who are so good at 360 degree rod handling that they can even make pin-point casts backwards, over their head...
The real challenge of kayak fishing is what to do once you've caught the fish. Being so close to the water you have to remember to keep the rod tip especially high, almost vertical as you bring your catch up to the side of the boat. Once within such close proximity to you, as long as you keep its head underwater, you can determine whether it's a keeper or not.
There are three ways to land a fish from a kayak. The first is with a landing net, a tried and true method known to all. Once the fish is alongside the boat, grab your landing net that has been secured for easy removal from a bungee on your deck. Scoop up the fish, remove the lure and put your catch on your stringer (practice being ambidextrous)...
Safe paddling and fishing.
Tom Watson is an avid sea kayaker with 15 years experience in the North Pacific waters of Kodiak Island, Alaska. He is also a freelance writer whose articles have appeared in most of the popular kayaking publications. He is a frequent presenter at regional kayak symposia. Currently he is working on his third guidebook entitled "Think Like a Survivor" to be published by Created Publishing, International, for release in spring, 2005.
http://www.paddling.net/guidelines/showArticle.html?128
Fishing from a Kayak
By Tom Watson
In a broad sense, Mankind has always found a way to wet a line, so in that regard, fishing from a kayak is the same as fishing from any watercraft. However, the challenges associated with a particular craft, is what adds a touch of adventure to this sacred outdoor ritual.
From an historical perspective, kayaks have been used for fishing for several millennia. By the time the Russian fur hunters overran the western coastal areas of Alaska, courageous kayakers were running down and slewing whales with poison-tipped harpoons and arrows. Now there's a 'catch of the day'!
Russian Orthodox priests recorded much of what is known about Native history in the mid to late 18th Century Alaska. Their notes and drawings show kayakers fishing for the huge, barn door flatfish halibut - from kayaks lashed in tandem side by side. Once a huge fish was hooked and hauled to the surface, it was clubbed and probably tied alongside the kayak.
Fishing is possible from any kayak although narrower, sleeker boats and most surf skis are just too nimble for any serious attempts. The sit-on types have flaunted their use as stable fishing platforms since they were first introduced a few decades ago. Today, some come with fishing contraptions installed from bow to stern. These and the wider, more stable "recreational" kayaks actually tout fishing as one of their main uses clearly marketing to this popular activity. For those who fish from sit-on's, and to a lesser degree, the wider, big-cockpit designed rec' boats, fishing is similar to that undertaken from a canoe or small skiff. It's when you fish from a conventional sea kayak that the game gets a little more exciting...
That brings up the issue of fishing rod length. Some suggest a short rod that is basically an extension of hand jigging (a form preferred by many). While the short rod keeps all the action within a few short feet of the cockpit, it is way too short if a larger catch decides to run -- as is often the case with most game fish. Unless your rod tip can be swung completely around the kayak, beyond bow and stern, a fish cutting right angle escape routes under your cockpit will take your rod with it. Swinging a complete circle around your kayak assures you of being able to keep control of your catch no matter where it runs. I know some kayakers who are so good at 360 degree rod handling that they can even make pin-point casts backwards, over their head...
The real challenge of kayak fishing is what to do once you've caught the fish. Being so close to the water you have to remember to keep the rod tip especially high, almost vertical as you bring your catch up to the side of the boat. Once within such close proximity to you, as long as you keep its head underwater, you can determine whether it's a keeper or not.
There are three ways to land a fish from a kayak. The first is with a landing net, a tried and true method known to all. Once the fish is alongside the boat, grab your landing net that has been secured for easy removal from a bungee on your deck. Scoop up the fish, remove the lure and put your catch on your stringer (practice being ambidextrous)...
Safe paddling and fishing.
Tom Watson is an avid sea kayaker with 15 years experience in the North Pacific waters of Kodiak Island, Alaska. He is also a freelance writer whose articles have appeared in most of the popular kayaking publications. He is a frequent presenter at regional kayak symposia. Currently he is working on his third guidebook entitled "Think Like a Survivor" to be published by Created Publishing, International, for release in spring, 2005.
http://www.paddling.net/guidelines/showArticle.html?128
zulu-X-treme
Sealiner
Elbe have a great rod available it's called the 'Tail Water', it's 5'6" and is available in 15 and 24kg's... The 'Tarpon' ended up being 1.85m's which is a little too long so I opted for the 'Tail Water'.
zulu-X-treme
Sealiner
Many anglers agree that shorter fishing rods on a kayak work far better than longer rods. Sitting so close to the water, the biggest challenge on a kayak is getting your fish to the boat, gripping and loading it quickly and without danger of injuries to the paddler. Longer and very flexible rods makes this a real challenge.Older and longer rods can easily be trimmed at the top or bottom to fit your hatch. Buying a boat to fit your rod is really silly.
Boat rods, Spinning rods and Jigging rods shorter than 1.7 meters and in various weight classes are commonly available from all the leading manufacturers such as Shimano, Kingfisher, Poseidon and Shakespeare. They range from +- R130.00 for the Kingfisher Strikeforce to +- R750.00 for the 2 piece (1.9m) Poseidon Cobra jigging rod. (Note: most jigging rods are 2 piece standard where the butt and rod slide into one another)
Boat rods, Spinning rods and Jigging rods shorter than 1.7 meters and in various weight classes are commonly available from all the leading manufacturers such as Shimano, Kingfisher, Poseidon and Shakespeare. They range from +- R130.00 for the Kingfisher Strikeforce to +- R750.00 for the 2 piece (1.9m) Poseidon Cobra jigging rod. (Note: most jigging rods are 2 piece standard where the butt and rod slide into one another)
ThefishinMagician
Sealiner
I am sorry...But what a load of horse!
Anybody who believes that you can just trim the top or bottom off a rod, is merely ignoring the very reasons why certain people (like myself) buy certain rods. Fair enough if you are fishing with a broom stick, but really.
Ask any rod builder, Rod blanks are made to a specific Spec. The length, Width and taper of the Blank, all affect its action. Thats like saying... "Oh Horse!... my car does not fit in the garage let me cut off the bumper." Then next week when he is in an accident and the other drivers car lands up on his backseat he wants to cry.
Similaurly, if you trim rod tips and butts, you are going to affect the rods action. Graphite rods may even split on you with the slightest amount of pressure being applied on the rod blank...
Sorry but I dont buy that statement or arguement.
Anybody who believes that you can just trim the top or bottom off a rod, is merely ignoring the very reasons why certain people (like myself) buy certain rods. Fair enough if you are fishing with a broom stick, but really.
Ask any rod builder, Rod blanks are made to a specific Spec. The length, Width and taper of the Blank, all affect its action. Thats like saying... "Oh Horse!... my car does not fit in the garage let me cut off the bumper." Then next week when he is in an accident and the other drivers car lands up on his backseat he wants to cry.
Similaurly, if you trim rod tips and butts, you are going to affect the rods action. Graphite rods may even split on you with the slightest amount of pressure being applied on the rod blank...
Sorry but I dont buy that statement or arguement.
ThefishinMagician
Sealiner
To add to that...
I do agree that shorter rods make handling / landing the fish easier. However longer rods give you more play and thus when you have a big fish close by the longer rod allows for more flex, thus not catapulting you into the water as when you are using a short stiff rod.
A simple thing that people forget is that on a kayak, you do not have the leverage that you would have on a boat, hence short stiff rods, result in you being capsized easier than a longer rod which offers more flex.
Pretty much the same reason why it is not good to fish with 50kg line (for when it snags) or have a too strong "trip" on your anchor.
I do agree that shorter rods make handling / landing the fish easier. However longer rods give you more play and thus when you have a big fish close by the longer rod allows for more flex, thus not catapulting you into the water as when you are using a short stiff rod.
A simple thing that people forget is that on a kayak, you do not have the leverage that you would have on a boat, hence short stiff rods, result in you being capsized easier than a longer rod which offers more flex.
Pretty much the same reason why it is not good to fish with 50kg line (for when it snags) or have a too strong "trip" on your anchor.
BulkCarrier
Sealiner
Come-on guys. I would believe it if it comes from a rod builder, but that statement was made by a kayak builder. If you can get that same quote from Shimano or a good rod builder in S.A I would believe it.
Go and check what the best kayak fishers in S.A are using. Most of them are using Shimano Trevala MH rods in 6'6" length and that's what Brett from Stealth suggested to a Cape Town guy, when he went and fished Pandane. I would think Brett has a bit more experience.
Go and check what the best kayak fishers in S.A are using. Most of them are using Shimano Trevala MH rods in 6'6" length and that's what Brett from Stealth suggested to a Cape Town guy, when he went and fished Pandane. I would think Brett has a bit more experience.
zulu-X-treme
Sealiner
Fair enough... Thanks for the input guys... :fishn