Hi guys i am new to this and would like to make so

oomfaan wrote:
I made a mold with mold max 30, but the spoon does not come out smooth. It seems as if the silicon gives off a gas as it makes indents in the metal. I used pure tin to make the spoon. What did I do wrong?
Mouldmax 30 is not the right stuff to use for a number of reasons.

1 - It is impossible to remove all the air bubbles. When you close your mould and pour hot material into the mould, the air bubbles in the silicone expands and eventually pops leaving those marks on your spoon.

2 - It isn't as stable as mouldmax 60 and by the time you pour the second spoon it starts deforming and pulling out of shape.

3 - The mould deteriorates quickly.

Rather use MM60. The mould won't last as long but I reckon I get 30-40 spoons out of a mould and they are quality castings. To get a nicer finish, dust the mould with talcum powder.
 
oomfaan wrote:
I made a mold with mold max 30, but the spoon does not come out smooth. It seems as if the silicon gives off a gas as it makes indents in the metal. I used pure tin to make the spoon. What did I do wrong?
BTW, I recognise that spoon. Do you want a proper mould? I might be able to help if it is the spoon I'm thinking of.
 

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Fanie

Sealiner
benniejordaan wrote:
I had a quote once to make a mould for my spoon and I might still have it made, but for DIY purposes, I cant justify spending R2000 on a mould when I can make a silicone mould for R100.

Hi Bennie,

Absolutely.  The tooling costs in most cases are way too much to justify small quantities, in fact imo in most cases a rifpoff.  That is exactly the reason that si or some of the other mold processes are used by many.  There is nothing wrong with doing it this way and your lures are really state of the art quality and one can see you have spent a lot of time on this already.

The proof of the puding is always in the eating and I think some of your lures work pretty awaesome if one follows your trips where you use them.  You are lucky in the sense that you are close to the water and can actually test them, this is hardly possible for us landlubbers.

I can never remember which of the products are which so I actually called AMT prior to posting on the materials Oomfaan is using and what I posted was the information that was given to me.  Oomfaan can however call AMT himself to get the correct information from them in case some misunderstanding occurred somewhere.

Any time one receives information from someone, like on a forum, it is in any case the user's own responsibility to ensure that he is about to do and use the right thing(s).

 

 
 

myyak

New member
benniejordaan wrote:
oomfaan wrote:
I made a mold with mold max 30, but the spoon does not come out smooth. It seems as if the silicon gives off a gas as it makes indents in the metal. I used pure tin to make the spoon. What did I do wrong?
BTW, I recognise that spoon. Do you want a proper mould? I might be able to help if it is the spoon I'm thinking of.
Bennie, what is the lenth of the spoon in the picture? And the weight in tin or lead? And is the other side flat or indented (concave)?
 

myyak

New member
Fanie wrote:
benniejordaan wrote:
I had a quote once to make a mould for my spoon and I might still have it made, but for DIY purposes, I cant justify spending R2000 on a mould when I can make a silicone mould for R100.

Hi Bennie,

Absolutely.  The tooling costs in most cases are way too much to justify small quantities, in fact imo in most cases a rifpoff.  That is exactly the reason that si or some of the other mold processes are used by many.  There is nothing wrong with doing it this way and your lures are really state of the art quality and one can see you have spent a lot of time on this already.

The proof of the puding is always in the eating and I think some of your lures work pretty awaesome if one follows your trips where you use them.  You are lucky in the sense that you are close to the water and can actually test them, this is hardly possible for us landlubbers.

I can never remember which of the products are which so I actually called AMT prior to posting on the materials Oomfaan is using and what I posted was the information that was given to me.  Oomfaan can however call AMT himself to get the correct information from them in case some misunderstanding occurred somewhere.

Any time one receives information from someone, like on a forum, it is in any case the user's own responsibility to ensure that he is about to do and use the right thing(s).

 

 
Oomfaan did talk to the people at AMT and is now kind of p.... off because they told him that mm30 was the highest temperature Si that you get and that it would work well with tin, but would not last with lead. Seems like he will have to get some mm60 and start from scratch. Will acrylic resins with bronse powder not work better?
 
myyak wrote:
benniejordaan wrote:
oomfaan wrote:
I made a mold with mold max 30, but the spoon does not come out smooth. It seems as if the silicon gives off a gas as it makes indents in the metal. I used pure tin to make the spoon. What did I do wrong?
BTW, I recognise that spoon. Do you want a proper mould? I might be able to help if it is the spoon I'm thinking of.
Bennie, what is the lenth of the spoon in the picture? And the weight in tin or lead? And is the other side flat or indented (concave)?
95mm, 58 grams (tin) and it is flat on both sides.
 

Fanie

Sealiner
myyak wrote:
Fanie wrote:
benniejordaan wrote:
I had a quote once to make a mould for my spoon and I might still have it made, but for DIY purposes, I cant justify spending R2000 on a mould when I can make a silicone mould for R100.

Hi Bennie,

Absolutely.  The tooling costs in most cases are way too much to justify small quantities, in fact imo in most cases a rifpoff.  That is exactly the reason that si or some of the other mold processes are used by many.  There is nothing wrong with doing it this way and your lures are really state of the art quality and one can see you have spent a lot of time on this already.

The proof of the puding is always in the eating and I think some of your lures work pretty awaesome if one follows your trips where you use them.  You are lucky in the sense that you are close to the water and can actually test them, this is hardly possible for us landlubbers.

I can never remember which of the products are which so I actually called AMT prior to posting on the materials Oomfaan is using and what I posted was the information that was given to me.  Oomfaan can however call AMT himself to get the correct information from them in case some misunderstanding occurred somewhere.

Any time one receives information from someone, like on a forum, it is in any case the user's own responsibility to ensure that he is about to do and use the right thing(s).

 

 
Oomfaan did talk to the people at AMT and is now kind of p.... off because they told him that mm30 was the highest temperature Si that you get and that it would work well with tin, but would not last with lead. Seems like he will have to get some mm60 and start from scratch. Will acrylic resins with bronse powder not work better?

There may be some conditions one do not consider that may have contributed, and I'm not saying the problem is Oomfaan's fault but to what temperature was the tin heated when it was poured ?  We also bake the moulds prior to casting so the si become mature to withstand the process.  The casted part is also heated in the mold to shorten turn around time.

I remember we had a problem with bubbles at one stage and we even considered using an ultrasonic device to vibrate the air bubbles out.  In the end Pine stole ;-) one of the vacuum pumps I gave to him.

If you stir the mix carefully to avoid bubbles instead of beating it helps, then you vacuum the mix in the original mixing pot and a lot (probably most) of the air will come out, then you can also vacuum again after you poured, but this is sensitive as the liquid level rise due to the air expanding and can then cause problems as you can imagine.

 
 
myyak wrote:
Fanie wrote:
Oomfaan did talk to the people at AMT and is now kind of p.... off because they told him that mm30 was the highest temperature Si that you get and that it would work well with tin, but would not last with lead. Seems like he will have to get some mm60 and start from scratch. Will acrylic resins with bronse powder not work better?
Often they don't know their own products because they simply don't work with it. They get told that MM30 can handle temperature etc but they have never poured a tin spoon in their lives. 99% of the stuff they sell is for general PU (cold) casts.
 

Fanie

Sealiner
Ok this may be good news.

There is a chap by the name of John Morris in the club that apparently is rigging himself out to make moulds. IF I remember I will ask him if I see him over the weekend.

What this could mean is that you may well send him a sample lure which he copies and mill for you in say aluminum, perhaps for a lesser price than expensive. This will enable one to make many of the same castings.

Remind me if I forget and I'll contact him.

He is retired and wants to do this as a hobby, so it may not be a matter of him trying to pay a big workshop's overheads with the work he does.
 

myyak

New member
Fanie wrote:
Ok this may be good news.

There is a chap by the name of John Morris in the club that apparently is rigging himself out to make moulds. IF I remember I will ask him if I see him over the weekend.

What this could mean is that you may well send him a sample lure which he copies and mill for you in say aluminum, perhaps for a lesser price than expensive. This will enable one to make many of the same castings.

Remind me if I forget and I'll contact him.

He is retired and wants to do this as a hobby, so it may not be a matter of him trying to pay a big workshop's overheads with the work he does.
Hi Fanie, I am reminding you to talk to John Morris about that hoby of his. I might just find a new place to invest all my monet into in stead of the tackle shop for garfish spinners.
 

Agterbaaier

New member
benniejordaan wrote:
oomfaan wrote:
I made a mold with mold max 30, but the spoon does not come out smooth. It seems as if the silicon gives off a gas as it makes indents in the metal. I used pure tin to make the spoon. What did I do wrong?
BTW, I recognise that spoon. Do you want a proper mould? I might be able to help if it is the spoon I'm thinking of.

Bennie, what is the dimentions on this spinner looks like the garfish i am looking for.
 

myyak

New member
In an old post Tauruck suggested using mold max 30 for lead sinkers.
http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=22813&forum_id=78
 

myyak

New member
Agterbaaier wrote:
benniejordaan wrote:
oomfaan wrote:
I made a mold with mold max 30, but the spoon does not come out smooth. It seems as if the silicon gives off a gas as it makes indents in the metal. I used pure tin to make the spoon. What did I do wrong?
BTW, I recognise that spoon. Do you want a proper mould? I might be able to help if it is the spoon I'm thinking of.

Bennie, what is the dimentions on this spinner looks like the garfish i am looking for.
Ek dink hy is bietjie klein vir die snoek garfish, maar sal perfek werk vir geelstert. As ek dit nie mis het nie is die snoek stok spinner 7" lank. 95 mm is 4".
 

Agterbaaier

New member
myyak wrote:
Agterbaaier, is die beste snoek spinner nie maar die sinkplaat of garfish sipnner nie? Is dit so iets wat jy wil maak of iets meer fancy?[/quote

Ja maar ook die gewone loot en barrel asook spinner soos die]
 

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myyak

New member
'n Vriend van my het die mould vir die gewone snoek lote, die regte aliminium gietform. Ek het dit nou die dag by hom geleen en so 30 lote gemaak. Ons kan weer so maak.
 
It could be any size because the mould isn't made yet.

That particular spoon was given to me by Miles. Claims are that it is THE best spoon in C.T. and you are luck to get one.
 

Agterbaaier

New member
benniejordaan wrote:
It could be any size because the mould isn't made yet.

That particular spoon was given to me by Miles. Claims are that it is THE best spoon in C.T. and you are luck to get one.

It's the best ,mostley at Yzerfontein especialy if it's used with a rod and reel with a treble hook . Costs about 70 bucks with the hook and a snoek easily give it a bite off ,then the next 70 bucks
 
myyak wrote:
In an old post Tauruck suggested using mold max 30 for lead sinkers.
http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=22813&forum_id=78
That tutorial shows very nicely the method for making a mould. It is a great tutorial but there are 2 problems with it. The first is that everyone thinks they can cast spoons in the mould - it doesn't really work. The second is that the mould is just too long and with MM30 being very soft, it is too flimsy.
 
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