Ok chaps , herewith part two. Sorry its late , but have been busy servicing trailers
In the previous supplement we covered bearing colaps due to lack of lubrication and water ingress into the hub.
Now we have a scenario were the bearings are lubed properly , bearing protector fitted and STILL the bearings did not last, WHY ?
Overtighting of the castle nut (hub nut).
If this nut is to tight it will cause extra load on the bearings which will lead to failure. The nut must not be so tight that you can not turn the hub(without the wheel on) by hand . It must have free movement and there must be no lateral play on the hub.
The way I do it is :
Tighten the nut as far as it will go(with a normal 1/2 inch socket). Then slacken it off , tighten again by hand. Use the socket to JUST nip it so that it opens up the split pin hole. DON'T FIT SPLIT PIN YET. Feel the the hubs moves freely , fit the wheel and then feel if there is any lateral movement on the wheel , if not, fit split pin and close up(cap or protector)
Loose castle nut
After fitting new bearings , you have to check the wheels for any play. Sometimes the bearing are not fitted properly and the bed in. This will then cause play on the wheel and it will ruin your bearings in a very short time.IF there is play , take the cap of , split pin out and tighten castle nut again
Storage
When it comes to storage of your trailer for a period of time , its not going to do any harm if you put it on jacks( take weight of the wheels).It will take the laod of the bearings and they will last longer
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE buy jacks that can handle the load plus more.Boats become favourite storage and play areas when we are not around. Need i say more
GREASE MELTING
I note some folks mention that the grease melts and helps lubrication. Folks for basice wheel bearing grease to MELT( the right term is drop out temp) it has to reach a temp of around 180 Degrees C ( basic Castrol WB).
If your wheel hub reaches this temp , then there is groot K*K and things should be on fire already.
Grease in its natural state has adhesive qualities that allows it to attach to metal surfaces. When it "drops out" it looses this abilty and will "fall off" the metal.
Your hubs( unbraked) should not go past 40 Degrees C. This is warm to the touch(always use the back of your hand)
Braked trailers should not be much warmer than this( depending if you have just come down a steep incline.like going to Inanda vs just going down the road)
At times i also get the scenario where "my one hub is hotter than the other". Gents in the morning the hub that faces east is going to be warmer and in the afternoon the hub that faces west is going to be warmer. I take it you know why
Saying this, if there is a significant temp dif and it is the same hub over and over again , then there may be a tight castle nut
Towing speed
Just because you CAN tow your boat at 140 K an hour , does not mean you should. I shudder to see at what speed some people tow trailers/caravans at, not just boat trialers
Folks no more that 100 KPH depending on weather and road conditions , size and weight of entire rig (including vehicle). You try and do an emergency stop with an unbraked trailer(lets say 600 GVM ) doing 140 KPH , there is going to be tears.
Leave lots of space so that there is enough time for you to react and bring your rig to a stop. Two seconds spacing when towing DOES NOT DO .You should have double that
Trust that assist.
Regards
Rob
( PS excuse the spelling)
In the previous supplement we covered bearing colaps due to lack of lubrication and water ingress into the hub.
Now we have a scenario were the bearings are lubed properly , bearing protector fitted and STILL the bearings did not last, WHY ?
Overtighting of the castle nut (hub nut).
If this nut is to tight it will cause extra load on the bearings which will lead to failure. The nut must not be so tight that you can not turn the hub(without the wheel on) by hand . It must have free movement and there must be no lateral play on the hub.
The way I do it is :
Tighten the nut as far as it will go(with a normal 1/2 inch socket). Then slacken it off , tighten again by hand. Use the socket to JUST nip it so that it opens up the split pin hole. DON'T FIT SPLIT PIN YET. Feel the the hubs moves freely , fit the wheel and then feel if there is any lateral movement on the wheel , if not, fit split pin and close up(cap or protector)
Loose castle nut
After fitting new bearings , you have to check the wheels for any play. Sometimes the bearing are not fitted properly and the bed in. This will then cause play on the wheel and it will ruin your bearings in a very short time.IF there is play , take the cap of , split pin out and tighten castle nut again
Storage
When it comes to storage of your trailer for a period of time , its not going to do any harm if you put it on jacks( take weight of the wheels).It will take the laod of the bearings and they will last longer
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE buy jacks that can handle the load plus more.Boats become favourite storage and play areas when we are not around. Need i say more
GREASE MELTING
I note some folks mention that the grease melts and helps lubrication. Folks for basice wheel bearing grease to MELT( the right term is drop out temp) it has to reach a temp of around 180 Degrees C ( basic Castrol WB).
If your wheel hub reaches this temp , then there is groot K*K and things should be on fire already.
Grease in its natural state has adhesive qualities that allows it to attach to metal surfaces. When it "drops out" it looses this abilty and will "fall off" the metal.
Your hubs( unbraked) should not go past 40 Degrees C. This is warm to the touch(always use the back of your hand)
Braked trailers should not be much warmer than this( depending if you have just come down a steep incline.like going to Inanda vs just going down the road)
At times i also get the scenario where "my one hub is hotter than the other". Gents in the morning the hub that faces east is going to be warmer and in the afternoon the hub that faces west is going to be warmer. I take it you know why
Saying this, if there is a significant temp dif and it is the same hub over and over again , then there may be a tight castle nut
Towing speed
Just because you CAN tow your boat at 140 K an hour , does not mean you should. I shudder to see at what speed some people tow trailers/caravans at, not just boat trialers
Folks no more that 100 KPH depending on weather and road conditions , size and weight of entire rig (including vehicle). You try and do an emergency stop with an unbraked trailer(lets say 600 GVM ) doing 140 KPH , there is going to be tears.
Leave lots of space so that there is enough time for you to react and bring your rig to a stop. Two seconds spacing when towing DOES NOT DO .You should have double that
Trust that assist.
Regards
Rob
( PS excuse the spelling)


