okuma convector CV 30L rebuild - 2/28/10

[alantani]

okuma convector CV 30L rebuild - 2/28/10

this will be the fist time that i've ever done a rebuild post on this style of fishing reel.  it is a variation on the theme of the older mitchell, ocean city, penn, and newell reels, in which the bridge plate bolts to the side plate.  these reels are found in large numbers in asia and to a lesser degree in the united states.  it's like the m-16 vs ak-47 situation in this country.  m-16's are more common, but there are plenty of ak's here and even more throughout the rest of the world.  first, pull up the schematics.

http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/okuma/Okuma_CV30L.pdf

here's our reel.  it's last year's model of the okuma convector 30L.  i had to do a few calculations, but it looks like this reel will hold a shade under 300 yards of 30# mono.  that compares to the penn 330 gt2 holding 330 yards of 30# mono. 

it's very important to keep the line and the leveler in sync.  an easy way to do that is to pull out the line until the leveler moves to a far side, then cut the line.  when the reel is back together, crank until the leveler moves back to that side, find the tag end of the line, poke it through the leveler, pull, tie it off and you're back in sync.

let's start by removing the four left side plate screws (key #9311).

stainless steel.  very nice!

remove the left side plate cover (key #311), also stainless steel.

remove the left side plate cover (key #300) assembly.

here's a view of the inside.  all stainless steel!

you can go cheap and easy here and just lube the right side plate bearing (key #9106) without pulling it out.  this bearing measures 4x11x4mm. 

you can also pull the bearing and clean it out.  on some models, you may have to remove the click pawl spring (key #305) and the transmission gear (key #707).

remove the spool assembly (key #400).

in all of the star drag reels, this right spool bearing (key #9107) that always fails first.  it measures 6x13x3.5mm.

remove the retaining clip (key #9406).

we're going to toss the shields and lube the bearing, then reinstall it and the retaining clip. 

lube the worm shaft (key #712).

install the spool assembly (key #400).

install the left side plate assembly (key #300).

install the left side plate cover (key #311).

install the four left side plate screws (key #9311).   

in the future, this will be the only work required to maintain your reel.

now for the right side.

remove the handle nut holder screw (key #515).

remove the handle nut (key #117).

remove the handle washer (key #9204).

remove the handle assembly (key #500).  at one point, the hadle arms were stainless steel.  this particular arm is made of anodized aluminum.

remove the tension washer (key #614).

remove the star drag (key #615).  this is also anodized aluminum, not as good as stainless steel but better than the chromed zinc found in older models. 

removed the washer stack and keep the washers in order (key #'s 9201, 609 and unk).

remove the 5 right side plate screws (key #9301).

remove the right side plate cover (key #208).

remove the right side plate assembly (key #200).

here's a shot of the inside of the assembly.  it is different in appearance, but the basic "design" is same a penn 4/0 senator.  one of the most impressive things about this particular reel is the amount of stainless steel in it. 

remove the two screws (key #930-1) for the hold plate cover (key #912).

remove the hold plate cover (key #912).

remove the clutch cam screw (key #9317)

remove the clutch cam slider (key #804).

remove the pinion gear (key #702) and yoke (key #805) as a unit.

remove the two yoke springs (key #806).

line everything up.

remove the two large hold plate screws (key #9302) on top.

remove the smaller countersunk hold plate screw (key #9302-1) at the bottom.

note the orientation of the anti-reverse pawl (key #201) assembly.

remove the anti-reverse pawl pin (key #211).  this side is up....

..... and this side is down.

remove the drive shaft assembly as a unit.

this model has a white nylon drive gear shaft bushing (part #17200005) that is not shown in the schematic.

here is an expanded view of the drive shaft assembly.

there are two drag washers (key #'s 9205 and 610) in this particular reel that are not made of carbon fiber and should be replaced.  call okuma directly or use a penn ht-100 #56-440 as a replacement.

slap a thick coat of cal's grease on the carbon fiber drag washers and reassemble the drag stack.  don't worry about the excess grease.  it will simply squeeze out the sides.

install the one way clutch bearing (key #9103).  lube it first with corrosion x.

install the drive shaft assembly half way.

rotate the hold plate (key #207) clockwise about 30 degrees.

install the anti-reverse pawl pin (key #211) and align the anti-reverse pawl (key #201) with the the ratchet gear of the drive shaft assembly (key #701).

rotate the hold plate (key #207) couterclockwise 30 degrees and snap it into place.

turn the drive shaft (key #701) and make sure the anti-reverse pawl (key #201) clicks properly.

install the lower hold plate screw (key #9302-1).

install the two upper hold plate screws (key #9302).

install the two yoke springs (key #806).

install the pinion gear (key #702) and yoke (key #805) as a unit.

install the clutch cam slider (key #804).

install the clutch cam screw (key #9317).

check the function of the clutch bar (key #802).

install the cover board (key #912).

install the cover board screws (key #9301-1).

almost done!

install the right side plate assembly (key #200).

install the right side plate cover (key #208).

install the side plate cover screws (key #9301).

install the drive gear shaft bushing (no key #).

install the drag spring washers (key #609) in a "()" orientation.

install the drive shaft gear washer (key #9201-1) and click gear (no key #).

install the star drag (key #615) and turn it down past the shoulder of the drive shaft.

install the tension washer (key #614).

now for the handle assembly (key #500).  it you need to lube it, pop the cover and back out this small screw. 

i'm going to drill this one out and install something a little more substantial.

there, that's more like it!

install the handle washer (key #9204).

install the handle nut (key #117).

install the handle nut holder screw (key #515).

almost done.

the quickest way to damage the level wind assembly is to have the line and the leveler out of sync.

remember where the leveler was when we cut the line?   right!  crank the reel until you have the leveler on the far right side.

poke the line through the leveler and pull until you can clearly see that it is back in sync.

now tie a loop at the end, add a rubber band, and NOW you're done!

now, for a few comments.  at the risk of sounding like a broken record, the bearings need servicing.  and sneaking in two non-carbon fiber washers into the drag stack is not good.  but the rest of this reel is fine!  there is ALOT of stainless steel in this fishing reel.  that by itself makes the reel worthy of consideration.  stainless steel and graphite will last for years.  the anodized aluminum handle arm, star and spool will have to be watched, but this reel will require very little maintenance after the initial service.  i'm afraid i would have to rate this reel higher than the penn 330 gt2 and the shimano tekota because the convector is mostly graphite and stainless steel.  if you're looking for a 30# levelwind, this is the one to get.  alan

 

[Jude]

Well another great post Alan!

Jude

 

[reza]

dear alan your posts are always great so i hope you can give some valuable advice - i have an okuma cs 45 catalina which is very similar to the reel in this post and it works quite well - however i find that there is very little adjustment available on the drag control and the reel spins extremely quickly with resultant burnt fingers / birds nests could you please advise what i should check or a possible mod?

 

thanks

reza

 

 

[alantani]

greased carbon fiber drag washers shouljd help the drag issues. regarding the fast spin, some grease in the bearings will slow it down if that is your goal. alan

 

[reza]

THANK YOU will try - ahve replaced washers previuosly but will try the grease

 

[1300wipass]

Hi

Great post, just wanted to know what exactly this is, have no idea about reels, but I cant reel any longer and opened up just to see what broke, the first thing i found was this laying loose inside, any heklp would be appreciated


thanks
W

 

[Daz]

reza wrote:

dear alan your posts are always great so i hope you can give some valuable advice - i have an okuma cs 45 catalina which is very similar to the reel in this post and it works quite well - however i find that there is very little adjustment available on the drag control and the reel spins extremely quickly with resultant burnt fingers / birds nests could you please advise what i should check or a possible mod?

 

thanks

reza

 

Hi reza,

 

I have the same reel ( okuma cataline 45cs ) and i have had the same problem as with yours. Many a birds nest, sent the reel to khan and he said that all was ok with the reel. Must say i dont use the reel that much any more as it always ends up as a nest. Even tried to swap spool tensioner screw with an other model but no luck.

Any body have any ideas as to what could be the cause?

 

[1300wipass]

had the same problem, i initially put it down as being a beginner angler at the time, but then i  bought a daiwa and shimano and found the going easier.... what i did then was tighten the small tension nut to maximum up to a point where i coulnt loosen it with my hand allown.... it seemed to solve the problem but alas i think its what broke this reel in the end aswell... not 100% sure but thats my guess as to the cause..

hopefully the pro's will confirm/ rectify me on this assumption

 

[fanievb]

Thanks for the post Alan, I have a Magnetix MG30LS and it's almost identical to the CV30L.

I need some help with 2 things on my reel;

1. I need to replace the bushing on the drive shaft hold plate (there's some splay on the handle), where can I get the part?

2. I stripped a screw on the left side plate (caused by my stupidity), any advice on how to fix it?

Thanks

 

[reza]

i did manage to sort that out by installing an extra brass washer which i sanded down behind the original spool tensioner knob washer ( which looked a bit worn) this allows me to put more than enough tension on the spool so that i can cast nicely with the reel. Dont use so much now as it's my backup reel

 

[surfaMIKE]

1300wipass wrote:

Hi

Great post, just wanted to know what exactly this is, have no idea about reels, but I cant reel any longer and opened up just to see what broke, the first thing i found was this laying loose inside, any heklp would be appreciated


thanks
W

Thats the spring that comes from your spool engaging lever. Its rather important if you dont want your reel disengaging or engaging accidentally 

In no way did it break from you overtightening the spool tensioner. Its not even remotely connected to it. They should be cheap to buy, or even make one yourself from stainless steel wire

 

[alantani]

1300wipass wrote:

Hi

Great post, just wanted to know what exactly this is, have no idea about reels, but I cant reel any longer and opened up just to see what broke, the first thing i found was this laying loose inside, any heklp would be appreciated


thanks
W

the eccentric spring helps the lever snap into the forward postion and stay there.  it also allows you to snap the lever back and helps it stay there as well.  obviously, you need to put it back.  it is rare (nearly impossible) for these to pop out unless something is broken, so you may have to replace the spring, the eccentric, or both. 

 

[alantani]

fanievb wrote:

Thanks for the post Alan, I have a Magnetix MG30LS and it's almost identical to the CV30L.

I need some help with 2 things on my reel;

1. I need to replace the bushing on the drive shaft hold plate (there's some splay on the handle), where can I get the part?

2. I stripped a screw on the left side plate (caused by my stupidity), any advice on how to fix it?

Thanks

i'm in california, so i really can't help with parts.  for the screw, you can cut a small strip from an aluminum can that is the same size as the screw hole, then run the screw in.  it is something we commonly refer to as a "beer can shim."

 

[Pajero mad]

Hi Alan

 

Wow, some really great posts, please could you tell me if the Convector 45 has the same working gear as I have one of both the 30 and 45, I tell you why, the 45 seems to have a relatively weak drag system as even a 6kg Tuna runs with my drag set on max  but with the smaller 30, the same or similar sized tuna has no chance of peeling line.

 

I have opened them up together and seems there is little or no difference between them so unless I am missing the trick here I can’t figure out the weak drag.

 

If you can help in any way I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[Pajero mad]

Alan

Last night I took your photos and followed it step for step and I found a my grag washers to be worn out, I replaced them and now it is as good as new,

Thanks for the great post.

 

Regards

 

 

 

 

[alantani]

were you able to replace them with carbon fiber?

 

[Pajero mad]

I was, from  penn spares that i had purchased earlier

 

thanks

 

[damian27]

hi guys

i need a some help.

someone i know has one of these reels but its not the level winder. any way he asked me to service it for him as its drag was not working, it just stayed tight all the time. so i opened it up and it was very dirty.

the drag stack is stuck in the main gear the top washer is also stuck in there. i could not get it out no matter what i tried.

has anyone has this problem before, do you have any ideas i could try to get it out.

thanks guys.

P.S. @ alantani, lovely post's you have made. very detailed and helpful. following these everyone will be able to service their own reels.

 

[alantani]

you'll have to dig it out. it will take a little bit of work. alan