Mussel Cracker
- Thread starter roland
- Start date
Hiya Roland,
This is a rig and some ideas I posted a while back in the rigs section.
It looks like q strange rig compared to the other chaps, but my rig is just as short. I believe it just gives the cracke that extra bit of non-resitance to mouth the bait before a snagged sinker on a short rig pulls tight and either scares the fish off or results in the hook pulling without setting.
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I have done some research and watched the likes of Katonkel Tom in action to come up with this variation which combines the wealth of knowledge of KT as well as Albatross.
I have watched them throw huge baits that helicopter through the air and kill vital distance needed when fishing off the Marine Drive spots. An angler here is constantly battling the rising tide and never ending winds! This variation is easily clipped onto my 'homemade' clip, fashioned on a STD bottle sinker. He may not admit the fact, but I know KT was impressed when he saw the ease of cast and distance gained. It also helps keeping finiky baits tidy when having to put a powerful cast into action.
I also like to fish a tight line, but don't want the added weight of the sinker to be bared on the inital pickup. The limited sliding sinker allows that split second of non resistance. It also lets the fish mouth the bait a little deeper, allowing for a better hook up before it hits the dead weight of the sinker, especially if the sinker is snagged!
The clip allows me to use a much lighter sinker snoot which I can easily break off when, not if, the sinker gets snagged and I therefore dont end up loosing rig after rig. A quick repair...added sinker and I'm fishing again!
From what I have observed the guys get many solid bumps and missed fish, I hope this rig or a future variation will turn those missed bites into solid hook-ups!
Any comments welcome!
Regards,
Trophy (aka Brett Harris)
This is a rig and some ideas I posted a while back in the rigs section.
It looks like q strange rig compared to the other chaps, but my rig is just as short. I believe it just gives the cracke that extra bit of non-resitance to mouth the bait before a snagged sinker on a short rig pulls tight and either scares the fish off or results in the hook pulling without setting.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have done some research and watched the likes of Katonkel Tom in action to come up with this variation which combines the wealth of knowledge of KT as well as Albatross.
I have watched them throw huge baits that helicopter through the air and kill vital distance needed when fishing off the Marine Drive spots. An angler here is constantly battling the rising tide and never ending winds! This variation is easily clipped onto my 'homemade' clip, fashioned on a STD bottle sinker. He may not admit the fact, but I know KT was impressed when he saw the ease of cast and distance gained. It also helps keeping finiky baits tidy when having to put a powerful cast into action.
I also like to fish a tight line, but don't want the added weight of the sinker to be bared on the inital pickup. The limited sliding sinker allows that split second of non resistance. It also lets the fish mouth the bait a little deeper, allowing for a better hook up before it hits the dead weight of the sinker, especially if the sinker is snagged!
The clip allows me to use a much lighter sinker snoot which I can easily break off when, not if, the sinker gets snagged and I therefore dont end up loosing rig after rig. A quick repair...added sinker and I'm fishing again!
From what I have observed the guys get many solid bumps and missed fish, I hope this rig or a future variation will turn those missed bites into solid hook-ups!
Any comments welcome!
Regards,
Trophy (aka Brett Harris)
Attachments
Make sure you use strong heavy duty swivels – I recently lost a fish which could only have been a big cracker due to a swivel popping.
Also, don’t be scared to cast right on top of submerged structure (e.g. a bank of red bait pods). This will most probably get you stuck a few times but when diving these are the spots where I have most frequently seen crackers hanging out.
Also, don’t be scared to cast right on top of submerged structure (e.g. a bank of red bait pods). This will most probably get you stuck a few times but when diving these are the spots where I have most frequently seen crackers hanging out.
Landshark, this might sound somewhat contradictory,but I've seen a few crackers landed in between the rocks, casting into sandy patches in the gully. I've heard from more than one source that crackers tend to hang out in these sandy gullies.
As I understand it, you should cast on the edges of these sand patches and as close as possible to the reef on it's edge.
I also understand that crackers breed in sandy areas this statement
As I understand it, you should cast on the edges of these sand patches and as close as possible to the reef on it's edge.
I also understand that crackers breed in sandy areas this statement
Marthin
Sealiner
ok i'm no artist but here is the way i'v been shown to rig a red crab and it works. If the cracker picks you up with this it's usually on. Getting it out well that's the other side of the coin...
Take red crab as shown below (picture is a swimming crab but i've been told they work very well at Benecke's klip in Hartenbos)
Depending on the size of the crab - 6/0 - 8/0 hooks. the strongest you can get your hands on, and NOT with a bend in the shank to the right or left.
Take the 1 hook and stick it eye first into the crab's body between the last and 2nd last leg ( iff it's a big crab even in the middle) in the soft spot where the crab's leg is attached to the body.
Stick it all the way through the inside of the crab and let the hook eye come out right between the crab's eyes. Now do the same with the second hook and let that hook eye come out right on top of the 1st hook's eye.
Now very important. Use a very strong snap back swivel to go through the hook eyes. The 2 hook eyes move when the fish takes and it cuts through most lines if it it's a big fish(learnt this the hard way). This will also keep the 2 hooks from turning and lying flat against the body of the crab.
you should end up with a natural looking crab, and 2 hook points hanging below it's belly hidden between the crab legs.
Tie some thick cotton around the body of the crab. Watching crackers feed in the aqwarium, they come in with speed and crunch the crab, then make a u turn and come pick up the pieces. Sometimes you hook them on that first take, and thats when you nearly get pulled off the rocks (usually the big ones), while the smaller ones might come back if you are using a large crab, and some cotton will keep some juicy bits together around your hook, giving you 2 shots at it.
I'm not a fan of an open/half crab, as the southern cape blacktails will empty a crab in 10 seconds flat.
Take red crab as shown below (picture is a swimming crab but i've been told they work very well at Benecke's klip in Hartenbos)
Depending on the size of the crab - 6/0 - 8/0 hooks. the strongest you can get your hands on, and NOT with a bend in the shank to the right or left.
Take the 1 hook and stick it eye first into the crab's body between the last and 2nd last leg ( iff it's a big crab even in the middle) in the soft spot where the crab's leg is attached to the body.
Stick it all the way through the inside of the crab and let the hook eye come out right between the crab's eyes. Now do the same with the second hook and let that hook eye come out right on top of the 1st hook's eye.
Now very important. Use a very strong snap back swivel to go through the hook eyes. The 2 hook eyes move when the fish takes and it cuts through most lines if it it's a big fish(learnt this the hard way). This will also keep the 2 hooks from turning and lying flat against the body of the crab.
you should end up with a natural looking crab, and 2 hook points hanging below it's belly hidden between the crab legs.
Tie some thick cotton around the body of the crab. Watching crackers feed in the aqwarium, they come in with speed and crunch the crab, then make a u turn and come pick up the pieces. Sometimes you hook them on that first take, and thats when you nearly get pulled off the rocks (usually the big ones), while the smaller ones might come back if you are using a large crab, and some cotton will keep some juicy bits together around your hook, giving you 2 shots at it.
I'm not a fan of an open/half crab, as the southern cape blacktails will empty a crab in 10 seconds flat.
Attachments
dangedave69
New member
hey guys...lots of great info here..
just one question, where around the cape can a guy go and catch these crakers? i know they come out struisbaai and arniston side, any where closer than that?
just one question, where around the cape can a guy go and catch these crakers? i know they come out struisbaai and arniston side, any where closer than that?
Anchorman wrote:
I agree with you – most crackers are most portably picked up next to structure as this is where most people cast – but like I said when targeting them, don ‘t be afraid to cast right on top of the structure as they are very strong swimmers and have no problem handing the greater surge on top of the structure. I always used to aim for a gully or channel when targeting them for fear of getting stuck but have changed my tactics a bit since checking them out underwater.
I proved this again to myself the week before last at Natures Valley when I was the only guy to get a decent pick-up at the point that day. Most of the guys were targeting the channels and gullies but I lobbed my bait right on top of an area where I could see a submerged muscle bed. As I said unfortunately the swivel popped but I have no doubt it was a Cracker.
I agree with you – most crackers are most portably picked up next to structure as this is where most people cast – but like I said when targeting them, don ‘t be afraid to cast right on top of the structure as they are very strong swimmers and have no problem handing the greater surge on top of the structure. I always used to aim for a gully or channel when targeting them for fear of getting stuck but have changed my tactics a bit since checking them out underwater.
I proved this again to myself the week before last at Natures Valley when I was the only guy to get a decent pick-up at the point that day. Most of the guys were targeting the channels and gullies but I lobbed my bait right on top of an area where I could see a submerged muscle bed. As I said unfortunately the swivel popped but I have no doubt it was a Cracker.
Katonkel Tom
Sealiner
This is what water to look for when targeting cracker
Katonkel Tom
Sealiner
I would aim at getting my bait as close to the the rock thats just about to get covered by the wave or between the 2 rocks that are sticking out. We've caught plenty of cracker at this particular spot.
dangedave69 wrote:
You can pick them up all the way to Betties Bay / Hangklip – I have also seen some smaller specimens while diving in False Bay.
You can pick them up all the way to Betties Bay / Hangklip – I have also seen some smaller specimens while diving in False Bay.
Katonkel Tom wrote:
Yoh! that does look like a schweet spot!This is what water to look for when targeting cracker
VISTOTDIEDOOD
New member
Is it not the Elbow at Cape Recife, looks like it to me
Katonkel Tom
Sealiner
VISTOTDIEDOOD
New member
Ha ha ha thanks Katonkel. I have a guy I know who catches musclecrackers almost every week-end and he refuses to tell me where. I still think the Elbow is one of the better places......Then it must be somehere off Marine Drive....or maybe Pienaars....