Hoek grootes en tydsduur van ase.

Jake the Snake

New member
Ek het gewoonlik met 'n No. 6-8 fear none hoek gevang totdat ek gehoor het dat al die "GROOT" manne met 0.8 of 1 hengel. Toe toets ek wat die veskil is met die hoeke as ek ass aan sit (Floats, deeg, ens.)

Op die 1ste hoekie: (Slegs float)
Met 1 gewone float (super cast, stevenson), float die No 6-8 hoek glad nie soos hulle in prentjies wys nie. Inteendeel hy sink. Hy float eers as ek 2 floats opsit OF as ek `n grooter floatie opsit. En omdat die hoek so swaar is pop die hoek net op vir so ongeveer 30 min, tot waar hy neutrally bojant begin raak/ maw amper op die grond le.

Die 0.8-1 hoek float met een gewone floatie vit ure!! Ek het inteen deel die strop gelos vir ongeveer 4 ure en toe ek terugkom het hy nogsteeds gefloat!!

Op die tweede hoekie:
Ek het hierop `n float met SWD op gesit en net soos hier bo het die grooter hoek daadelik gesink en die kleiner hoek het gefloat vir so ongebeer 20min tot waar hy "neutrally bojant"geraak het en so gebly het vir ongeveer 2-3 ure.

Ma die resultate het een van my friende dit gaan toets by `n club comp en hy het opgeeindig met 12 viss vir die dag asook die eerste prys.

Ek weet nie wat die vir julle manne se ,maar vir my is ek nou oortuig dat om kleiner hoeke te gebruik sal vir my beter resultate by kompetisies en oor die alemeen gee.
 

Naruto

Sealiner
goeie werk. Dit is waar wat jy se. Vir komps waar mens eerder baie vis wil vang werk die kleiner hoeke en ase meeste kere beter. As mens bietjie groter vis wil vang,en meer tyd op hande het, help dit om groter te gaan en meer geduld te he.
 

SHINO

Senior Member
quick q? does water depth and pressure influence the floating time of floaties? coz if so then surely home tests won't be too accurate...
 

Naruto

Sealiner
SHINO wrote:
quick q? does water depth and pressure influence the floating time of floaties? coz if so then surely home tests won't be too accurate...
Maybe someone can perform some tests in the shallow and deep ends of his/her pool.
 

christodeb

Senior Member
Dis presies die rede hoekom ek slegs met 0.8 hoeke oewer hengel. Jou byt tempo is beter en ek het selfs gevind dat 'n 0.8 nie so maklik buig soos 'n no 2 nie.
 

SHINO

Senior Member
Naruto wrote:
SHINO wrote:
quick q? does water depth and pressure influence the floating time of floaties? coz if so then surely home tests won't be too accurate...
Maybe someone can perform some tests in the shallow and deep ends of his/her pool.
Enigma ould you possibly give us some clarity on the above? i'v read many of your posts and you seem to be one of the more knowledgable ppl on sealine...
 
I think the depth that one usually reach from the shore is not that much that the pressure would have a sgnificant effect on the floatie and its bouyancy. And in any case, the floatie would only be in the water for at max 1hr30min.
 

Enigma

Moderator
christodeb wrote:
Dis presies die rede hoekom ek slegs met 0.8 hoeke oewer hengel. Jou byt tempo is beter en ek het selfs gevind dat 'n 0.8 nie so maklik buig soos 'n no 2 nie.

Part of that is because you know you are fishing a smaller, thinner hook that you don't pull as hard.

I was in discussion with Schalk v Breda and his comment on floating floaties was Why on Earth do want a floatie that will float for 4 days when you change baits between 10-90min
 

Enigma

Moderator
My take on why smaller hooks deliver more fish than big hooks (pole / feeder and Bank angling) where fish numbers are more important than fish quality.

Fish are drawn into your swim in all these styles using small particles of ground bait.

A small fine and light bait amongst the free offerings of popcorn feed will be much easier taken than a large heavy lump of bait.

The small fine bait will be less out of place than the lump. The feeding fish will eat all the feedball and then move off leaving the chunky bait alone.
 

Enigma

Moderator
The next issue is, DOES A FLOATIE HAVE TO FLOAT?

No definitely not and this I have learnt and ascribed to much I have learnt in specimen fishing.

You want a bait that is not out of place in amongst what the fish are feeding on, smaller than the free offerings if possible so as not to arouse suspicion.

A term i never always fully understood was CRITICALLY BALANCED. This in fact means a bait that virtually weighs nothing and just lays in place.

Taking into consideration that a carp feeds by sucking in food and silt one wants a bait that weighs absolutely nothing and that will be sucked in along with free offerings allowing for an immediate hookup.

A floatie added to a dough on a 0.5-#1 will in most cases sink slowly and gently to the bottom and the slightest disturbance will lift and move around, making the floatie and dough combination a deadly CRITICALLY BALANCE BANK ANGLING bait.

When fish are feeding aggressively then a bait floating up in the water amongst all the feed being stirred up will be taken quickly. Cautious fish feeding on the bottom will largely ignore a bait floating up in the water column.

All these points that I have mentioned above contribute to the fact that smaller hooks catch more fish when Carp fishing.

Another fact is A small hook will catch Big fish a lot easier than a big hook can catch small fish.

My rule of thumb:

0.5 for Muddies and 150-200gr carp

0.8 for the majority of competition fishing

#1 for fish with very soft mouths as it provides a slightly better hook hold with very little difference in weight or when the fish are feeding aggressively and catches of 50+ fish a session are expected (start with 0.8 and when fish are up to 8 fish or more per hour switch to #1)

#2 for fishing where we are getting 2-3kg fish or where a bit more pressure is needed due to a lot of snags in the water.

90% of all my traces are 0.8 and I then fish M1, M1.5, P4 so a lot less variation of traces to lug around. In fact I have no traces tied with #2's but I have them tied to hook lines in a packet and if I have to use them I quickly change a trace in the box.

For the reasons I have discussed above in terms of weight and natural movement of bait I prefer to fish 0.20mm Mariner Floating mono as hooklines. It is clear (fluoro coated) neutral bouyancy so it sinks extremely slowly (doesn't actually float) if I need a stronger hookline then i go with the super supple and very strong 0.20 or 0.22mm alpha Bass pro clear. If you're a XX fan then use only 0.21 only.

Hooklines must match your hook to make bait presentation perfect
 

Enigma

Moderator
SHINO wrote:
quick q? does water depth and pressure influence the floating time of floaties? coz if so then surely home tests won't be too accurate...

In most distances you cast the water will be 2-4m deep and the effect is minimal, but considering the above, must it float high off the bottom.

Aggressive feeding with high floating bait is normally only experienced in the warmer summer waters at 1-2m in depth
 
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