At the joining point of all of my graphite 2 piece rods the male component does not slide in completely. The exposed section is in the region of 10mm - 20mm. I have never had a rod fail there but it must surely be a weakness. What is the best way to correct that without compromising the strength of the rod.
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Two piece rods
- Thread starter Otto
- Start date
Spyker Kruger
Sealiner
Otto wrote:
Take a light sanding paper with water and sand it just slightly ,keep on testing it with out removing to much ,until the rod fits snug
I have some 2 piece rods that did the same.At the joining point of all of my graphite 2 piece rods the male component does not slide in completely. The exposed section is in the region of 10mm - 20mm. I have never had a rod fail there but it must surely be a weakness. What is the best way to correct that without compromising the strength of the rod.
Take a light sanding paper with water and sand it just slightly ,keep on testing it with out removing to much ,until the rod fits snug
They are 12ft Sensation Torpedo MKIII nice rods but all have the same problem. I've seen many other brands with similar gaps. The sections that fit into one another are approx 100mm long but when they do not seat properly its only 80mm. It might have seemed like a dof question but if the pressure is not evenly distributed under stress, failure could occur, last thing you want when you've hooked a nice fish. If sanding it is the way then I will do it , just wondered if there was a different way. Thanks.
purglaspete
New member
the gap between the joints is deliberate you should never try and meet the two sections completly the reason for the gap is to accomodate wear in the joints as the rod wears the gap will get smaller untill eventually the two sections meet when this happens there a graphite sprays on the market to build the male section up again .if anyone tells you to rub a male spigot down to get the two sectiond to meet they are wrongly informing you . I have been a fisherman and tournament caster for many years and have used hundreds of rods over the years
Thanks purglaspete. Spiggot joint rods are designed to have a gap to allow for wear ad tear.
Our Purglas rods for example are a single piece rod built with a reinforcing and then cut and joined with a Spiggot.
This is the closest you'll get to keeping a single piece rod's action in a multi piece.
The Spiggot material is thicker than the blank material so unless there is a defect in the Spiggot the rod will break and not the Spiggot.
Never sand the Spiggot down or you will weaken the Spiggot and as the Spiggot wears down your tip will fit loosely and fall of in the cast.
When the Spiggot is worn use a high quality super glue like Q-Bond to build a light layer on the Spiggot, 1 thin layer is plenty, let it harden and cure abduction then with a 1200 grit water paper shape and seat the Spiggot.
If it has 8-12mm of Spiggot open it's exactly how it is designed to be so leave it as it is and know it is super strong, stronger than the rest of the rod
Our Purglas rods for example are a single piece rod built with a reinforcing and then cut and joined with a Spiggot.
This is the closest you'll get to keeping a single piece rod's action in a multi piece.
The Spiggot material is thicker than the blank material so unless there is a defect in the Spiggot the rod will break and not the Spiggot.
Never sand the Spiggot down or you will weaken the Spiggot and as the Spiggot wears down your tip will fit loosely and fall of in the cast.
When the Spiggot is worn use a high quality super glue like Q-Bond to build a light layer on the Spiggot, 1 thin layer is plenty, let it harden and cure abduction then with a 1200 grit water paper shape and seat the Spiggot.
If it has 8-12mm of Spiggot open it's exactly how it is designed to be so leave it as it is and know it is super strong, stronger than the rest of the rod