To service the reels I use the following.  

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Sealiner
To service the reels I use the following.

 
Empty pill box to rinse and clean bearings
Cal’s Grease (Contact Whaler)
Sure Catch Red Jelly Grease
Sure Catch Reel oil
Nifty Oil on the bearings
Benzine to clean the parts
Paint brushes to clean up all the parts and casings
Toothbrush to apply grease
#10 Socket to remove the anti-reverse bearing
Small screwdrivers, filed to a needle point to remove bearings
Screwdrivers, Phillips and Flat
Shimano tool to remove handle nut
Long nose piler
Masking tape to protect line on spoolTo service the reels I use the following.
Empty pill box to rinse and clean bearings
Cal’s Grease (Contact Whaler)
Sure Catch Red Jelly Grease
Sure Catch Reel oil
Nifty Oil on the bearings
Benzine to clean the parts
Paint brushes to clean up all the parts and casings
Toothbrush to apply grease
#10 Socket to remove the anti-reverse bearing
Small screwdrivers, filed to a needle point to remove bearings
Screwdrivers, Phillips and Flat
Shimano tool to remove handle nut
Long nose piler
Masking tape to protect line on spool

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Daiwa GrandWave-X 40SHV came in for a service from a Sealine member. The reel has been used well, but is still in good nick. No upgrades to the washers yet, sorry Whaler, just requires a good clean, gears greased and the bearings cleaned and lubricated.

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We can start by removing the four side casing screws to gain access to the casing, clicker, side casing spool bearing and centrifugal components. I will also remove the actual spool from this side.

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Side casing removed. You will see that this angler has removed the ‘red’ and ‘black’ centrifugal collars from the pin running through the spool shaft. More experienced anglers prefer to have these removed, but they do help balancing the spool and prevent overwinds.

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Remove the spool by simply pulling it out from the frame. Remember to remove this spacer as it has a tendency to fall from the shaft and get lost!

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Its easier to put some masking tape over the line while working on the reel. This prevents the line forming coils and making it difficult to re-insert the spool. It also stops grease and benzene from getting onto the line.

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The GrandWave has a small stamped cover on the outside of the side casing. Easy to remove it often falls off once the screws are removed. Best to give the casing, underside and stamped cover a good clean.

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To strip and clean the casing you first remove the centrifugal ring. This is where the collars push up against when the spool is spinning. It simply ‘clicks’ in / out from a slight recess.

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Loosen the screw which secures the ‘clicker’ and bearing retainers.

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Remove the ‘clicker’ retainer.

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Remove the bearing retainer.

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Remove the felt bearing spacer…Bone dry!

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Remove the side casing spool bearing…Bone dry!

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Remove the ‘clicker’ circlip with a small flat screwdriver.

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Remove the ‘clicker’.

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Under the ‘clicker’ there is a small spacer washer, remove this…Bone dry!

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From the outside of the side casing you can now remove the ‘clicker’ thumb knob.

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Remember to remove the felt bearing spacer from underneath the bearing…bone dry!

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Side casing is now totally stripped showing all the parts in sequence. Give all the parts a good clean using a tub, paint brush and benzene.

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Using a tooth brush I like to give all the casings a layer of reel and gear grease. This traps sand and water and prevents salt corrosion.

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Remember to replace the bottom bearing spacer with a small amount of grease and reel oil.

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I use a small pill container filled with benzene to wash the bearings. On my own reels I remove the bearing casing.

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[align=center]Once removed from the benzene I will heat the bearing and then soak them overnight in Prolong motor oil.[/align]
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Fit the bearing back in the side casing.

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Add a drop of reel oil.

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Add a drop or two of Nifty oil.

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Replace the top felt bearing spacer.

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Wet the felt with a few drops of Nifty oil.

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Replace the bearing retainer.

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Replace the ‘clicker’ retainer.

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Place and tighten the retainer screw.

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From the outside of the casing replace the clicker thumb knob with a dollop of grease.

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Replace the spacer washer.

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Replace the ‘clicker’ pawl and clamp it back between the prongs of the retainer.

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[align=center]Replace the circlip using a small flat screwdriver.[/align]
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Clip back into place the centrifugal ring. Your side plate has now been full services and is re-assembled.

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Now you can start stripping the gear casing by removing the locking nut on the handle.

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Now you can remove the handle nut.

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Remove the handle.

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Unscrew the entire star drag.

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Remove the spacer washer from the star drag. This washer butts up against a flange on the drive shaft and prevents you handle from being over tightened onto the star drag.

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Remove the friction washer between the star drag and the star drag clicker.

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Remove the star drag clicker.

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Remove the compression washers. Note the *()* alignment.

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Remove the bearing washer.

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This is where all your bait cotton goes! LoL

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Remover the cast control cap.

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Remove the gear casing screws (4 +2) See the salt beneath the screw head…common corrosion and can cause the screw to break off in the frame.

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Remove the gear casing.

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Remove the pinion shaft and cross pin.

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The shaft and pin easily come apart so be careful not to drop these small parts.

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[align=center]Gear casing removed leaving the reel frame with the gearing and drag stack exposed.[/align]
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Now we are going to start stripping the gear casing components. First remove the clutch or free spool lever retaining screw.

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[align=center]Don’t loose the small washer by leaving it in the casing to fall out later.[/align]
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Now you can remove the lever.

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Inside the casing remove the lever spring…carefully! Good idea is to place your thumb over the spring while you use a small flat screwdriver to remove the ‘pin’ end. This part can go flying otherwise!

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Remove the lever cam from the casing.

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Your gear casing totally stripped and in sequence ready for cleaning.

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Wash all the parts in a tub with benzene and a paint brush.

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Again I apply a layer of grease to the casing to prevent water, sand and salt build-up and corrosion.

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Replace the lever cam.

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Replace the stamped casing BEFORE you attach the lever.

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Replace the lever arm.

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Replace the screw and washer.

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Replace the spring and REMEMBER to keep your thumb over the spring! Now your gear casing is complete and ready for re-assembly.

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Next we are going to remove and clean the components of the frame, including the drag stack, gears and drive shaft.

Start by removing the drag stack bearing from the drive shaft.

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Next remove the yoke springs as these have a tendency to fall off while removing the drag stack and of course get lost!

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Remove the drag stack water shield.

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Remove the drag stack collar.

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Before you can remove the drag stack you will have to remove the ‘o’ ring retainer.

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Now you can lift the entire drag stack off the drive shaft.

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Remove the pinion gear.

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Remover the yoke and be careful not to loose the two small washers in the process.

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Remove the yoke plate.

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Lever the spring loaded dog pawl and remove the anti-reverse ratchet off the drive shaft.

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Remove the dog pawl and be careful not to let the spring shoot out and get lost.

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Remove the two screws on the drive shaft retainer plate. And remove the entire drive shaft.

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There is a felt spacer beneath the shaft…don’t loose this. Drive shaft assembly.

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[align=center]Your frame components stripped and in sequence ready to be cleaned.[/align]
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Your gear casing spool bearing is located in the frame and is secured by a three pronged retainer. Access the prongs from beneath where the yoke plate was. Use a small flat screw driver to release the clip of each of the three prongs.

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The bearing retainer will drop out into the frame.

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You then gently push out the bearing using a small flat screwdriver.

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Wash the frame and its components in a tub of benzene and a paint brush.

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Same treatment as used for the side casing spool for these two bearings (Spool and Drag Stack Bearing)

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Remember to replace the felt spacer beneath the drive shaft.

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[align=center]Oil the drive shaft bearing. And then seal this open bearing with a good layer of grease.[/align]
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Replace the drive shaft and the drive shaft retainer plate and screws.

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Replace the spool shaft bearing with a drop of reel of and a few drops of Nifty oil.

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Replace the three pronged bearing retainer.

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[align=center]Your drag stack now unpacked and dirty. Take note of the washer sequence.[/align]
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Washed in benzene and allowed to dry completely.

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Clean washers in sequence and ready to be greased and replaced.

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Same grease treatment to the frame before I refit all the components.

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Replace the anti-reverse ratchet.

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Replace the dog pawl and spring.

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Now to grease, pack and replace the drag washers.

The best and only grease for this job is Cals grease…as sold by Whaler on Sealine! For local PE chaps I have a supply in the Trophy Den!

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Healthy layer of Cal’s grease onto the washers will ensure that enough grease is forced into the washed washers. If there is to much it will simply squeeze out the stack. Take careful note of the sequence of the individual washers over the next few pictures.

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Remember to replace the ‘O’ ring to secure the drag stack on the drive shaft.

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Light grease over the drag stack water shield and then fit it over the drive shaft onto the top washer.

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Replace the drag stack collar.

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Replace the drag stack bearing.

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Replace the yoke plate with some grease on the underside.

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Assemble the yoke and pinion gear and insert this intact.

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Replace the small washers on the yoke pins.

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Replace the yoke springs.

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Grease the main gear and pinion gear.

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Your frame assembly ready for the gear casing.

A quick tip is to bring your yoke plate slightly back to allow the clutch came to locate the slot on the plate easier.

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With your clutch lever on place the casing over the frame.

Before you tighten any screws press down on the casing and test the clutch lever and check that the yoke pushes the pinion up and down.

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Tighten down the gear casing screws with a good dollop of grease. This will help prevent the salt build-up and corrosion of the screws.

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Remember to replace the plastic space onto the spool shaft before fitting back into the frame.

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Fit the side casing back onto the frame.

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Fit the stamped casing to the side casing. You will be amazed how many times I forget to do this on either side casings! LoL

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[align=center]With a dollop of grease fit the screws and tighten down the casing.[/align]
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Drop the pinion shaft and pin into place and add a drop of reel oil.

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Refit the cast control cap.

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Replace the bearing washer onto the drive shaft.

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Replace the compression washers onto the drive shaft *()*

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Replace the star drag clicker.

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Replace the friction washer onto the drive shaft.

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Replace the spacer washer.

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Replace the handle, handle nut and nut retainer screw!

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Your Service is Complete!

 

Tight Lines,

 

Trophy (aka Brett Harris)

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