tips for PBs

C

cranky

Senior Member
no i am not gona tell you that you need a pink frog with yum garlic spray on it...fishing during the spawn on a bed...pulling the lure slowly or twitching it...etc etc etc...there are millions of bassfishing sites with millions of threads confusing you about what to use and how use it...basic to advanced DVDs on every technique available...something i have learnt about bass fishing over the years...bass dont read the same books and threads that we do...they just to catch the fisherman...and to move product...

you will notice that if a person is sponsored...that is the best catching lure and technique of the day...if he changes sponsor or start selling a different product then that becomes the best lure...a bass will take just about anything you throw at it...if it is active and lookig for food

you can also land a big fish with the cheapest rod and reel on the market...it will just improve your success rate if set up correctly

the aim of this thread is to help you land that PB that you hook

at the end of ever comp...i hear the same tune...man you should have seen the fish that got away...right next to the boat...pulled into a tree stump...etc...etc

you will also notice that some people catch big fish and indicate they catch bags of over 10 kgs...but when it comes to the day of the comp...their names dont appear in the top 5 consistantly...they might get lucky on the odd occasion...they even fish the dam on the day of the comp but dont enter and show pics of a bag the comp entrants could only wish for...why...i cant answer that question the only logic i can think...it has to do with your mindset.

well you need to start with your equipment...

rod

reel

line

terminal tackle

boat and equipment

i still panic when i hook a nice fish...and that is a problem...if you dont know your equipment you will do something silly

like ride over your line with the trolling motor...

pull too hard on the line and not lead the fish to the boat or bank

not set your drag correctly

allow slack in the line


or

be using a rod and line combination which dont suit...eg...rod too stiff for light line

tie knots which dont hold

not cut off shorten and retie when the line gets frayed

not respool line when required

not maintain your equipment

not use sharp hook or sharpen hooks...so the hook doesnt set deep enough so it comes out.

the more familiar you become with your equipment...the easier it will becomes to land fish

thats why i believe the more time you spend on the water the more successful you become...not because you are using a strike king deepdiver in you favourite colour...because you are confident with what you are using and know your equipment is set up correctly.

 


 

 
 
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cranky

Senior Member
when you have a fish on...dont reel the line too close to the top eye...rather leave some slack and lift the rod tip high otherwise if the fish turns and runs the line will snap...if the tip is high you can just lower the rod giving you some time to release the drag if you need to

a very important tip...dont give away the locations of good spots you catch  fish especially your pb otherwise the next time you go there you wont find anymore fish either because it has been fished out by other anglers...or the like of someone who will put HTH or chlorine tablets down to chase the fish...this is so sad but the reality of bassfishing...like people telling you to share all your info but they have private forums where they share info and dont allow you access...and you will also notice they dont share impotant info and key locations...just the run of the mill stuff that you can read in magazines...if any.
 
L

Little Green Fish

Sealiner
Another usefull tip is get to know the piece of water you fish (looking for your PB) very very well, study the particular fish in that particular body of water and study them well, make mental notes if you cannot make actual notes, keep going back and you'll soon rather than later get a bigger PB.

Pay specific attention to their feeding habits, food-source prefs and Like cranky mentioned the location, where do they like to hunt and gulp the food, spend more time here the more you visit and the more your notes starts narrowing down the hot-spots.
 
C

cranky

Senior Member
thanks for the input LGF

rod selection...when you select a rod for landing big fish (PBs)...dont think it has to be a big heavy action rod...selecting the rod must be matched with the line you want to use with the rod.

you can land a 5/6/7 kg bass using a light action rod with 8/10 lb line...if you use 8 lb line make sure the rod is a moderate light action...i managed to land a 5 kg+ cob at tugela mouth using 10 lb line...using a modified 9 ft fly rod...by leading it through the rocks.

i have seen rory da silva catch many a 3/4 kg fish on light 8lb line...it has become a standard joke betwen us...i believe big baits...big rods catch big fish...but he has proved me wrong mre times than i choose to remember


if you use a heavy extra fast action rod with light line it will be very difficult to lead a big fish...unless you are extremely familiar with your drag and know how to control the spool with your hand or thumb...if the fish turns close to the boat...you will be singing the tune "as i wave you goodbye"

if the rod is selected correctly...the rod will take up some of the tension giving you a chance to feed line.

using braid...dont use an extra fast heavy action rod otherwise you will hurt yourself and more than likely snap the hook or the rod.

select a rod which has a moderate to fast action...enough give in case you strike like you want to pull the fish out the water.

gloomis rods have the line rating on the rod...by the way g-oomis have launched a new range.

the eyes on the rod are also important...if braid is used...i have not had a problem with the braid cutting the eyes...but i use the braid on a gloomis frog rod rated for braid and a cherrywood spinning rod which has meteal eyes...you can check the eyes by pulling a piece of cotton wool tru the eye twisting it as you pull it...it it hooks check the eye for damage...the last thing you want is eye the cutting the line while trying to land a good fish.

rod length...

your personal preference...i prefer long rods not because i am tall just because i prefer them...the shortest rod i have is a 6.9ft gloomis spinnerbait rod...bought it because people told me you need a short rod...etc etc...i will be replacing it with a 7.2ft rod for spinnerbaits...if fact when i am finished my colection...the longest rod will be 7.9ft and the shortest 7.2ft.

the pros will tell you if fishing a jerkbait you should use a short rod...so that you can flick the rod in a downward motion without hitting the water...it depends on you style of fishing...i battle to do this on my kickboat...i would need a 1 ft rod...i think if you only fish on a boat you can learn to fish like a pro but for people who fish off various crafts you have to adopt a style that suits you.

 

at the end of the day its your choice and what you feel comfortable with...i hope these tips help you land that big fish.

there is a difference between leading a fish and just plain dragging out the landing to get attention...the most important tip about fishing...look after your bass.

make sure you always have a place to put the fish so that you can take pics...the longer the fish is out the water the more damage you do to the fish and reduce its survival chances...thats why i always keep water in the livewell...i can land the fish put it straight into the livewell...make sure the fish is up straight and well...then start looking for a camera etc...if i dont think the fish is well i release it straight away and assist it until it swims away...to be caught another day for a pic.

next thread will be reels...

 



 

 

 
 
C

cranky

Senior Member
i dont have anything bad to say about diawa because i dont use them...period...like the loomis and franklin reels i also dont have anything bad to say about them i just dont use them...i have heard good reports about all makes of reels so i dont want to turn this thread into a reel shoot out...it is all about personal choice.

unfortunately i cant afford to keep replacing reels so i just use shimano...i also cant afford to buy cheap shimano reels...i would nt buy anything less than a chronach...why because the last couple curados i used for cranking...only lasted one season form new...wound the bearings in their blicksem.

fishing off a kickboat really puts the reels through their paces...the reels spend lots of time soaked in water...get banged around and need to be strong to get fish out of cover.

reels...

the reel you use to catch PBs...must have a good smooth drag...why because if your drag is sticky...big mama will take your lure when it turns and the drag sticks...especially if you are using light line.

the way to overcome this problem if you choose not to buy good quality reels with a smooth drag...then you can learn to thumb the spool...but this is tricky and it is dificult to reel the fish when it is time...you have to drop the rod tip and reel the line up...then thumb the spool again....if you give tooo much slack you will also loose the fish.

i found when i started off i went out and purchased a whole lot of cheap reels so that i could have different setups on the boat...big mistake...looking back i could have had a better selection now...if i had been patient and bought i good reel at a time....they also last a lot longer.

the reel is also important for casting...as you know the further you cast the longer the lure is in the strike zone...and if you fish from the bank the reel is even more important.

if you want to pitch and flip...quality reel even more important...you will pitch more acurately with less overwinds...overwinds will occur even if you have a good reel but just less of them...i also found when pitching you need to lock the reel a lot quicker the fish will take the lure as it hits the water...the cheaper reels dont always lock closed when you need it...KVD is one of the best fisherman in the world...because he can pitch anf flip so well...watch some of his DVDs and you will see how he puts the lure into a spot without a splash...sometime you dont even see it land...the only way to achieve that...a good rod reel combination...being super quiet like that could produce bigger fish.

just a tip about lure presentation...dont always skim the lure across the surface...i have found with frog fishing...sometimes a high pitch making a big splash right next to the side will get the bass to grab the lure...it might seem like the lure has just jumped into the water from the bank by doing this...some of my biggest bass have been caught doing this.

a reel must be comfortable in your hand so the profile is important...fishing with a penn 500 for example would be a mission to fish with all day long.

you will notice most of the new reels sit lower on the rod...for better comfort.

when it comes to cranking...you will punish any reel using DD22s...so i decided to get a callcutta DC...been using it since 2006 and it still works like a dream.

you reel is very important for sensitivity...if your reel is not smooth...you wont know the difference between the structure and bites...i personally dont use my reel to crank i use the rod to move the crankbait then...reel up the slack...only sometimes when i fish rapala dt series baits do i reel the crank in...or a DD22...fishing very slowly.

i am not going to go into gear ratios...just know a slow retrieve reel has more power and the faster reels where a lot more dififcult to wind in a DD2...but with new technology they all have power...so fishing a 6.1.1 could be used for cranking big deep divers...you would just have to turn the handle a lot slower

the way i see it why drive a BMW when you can drive a merc...a BM is like riding an off road bike on a chicken run...compared to a merc...and then the fight started::S



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
C

cranky

Senior Member
bass fishing is about knowing where to find "active" fish...hooking  them is the easy part...if a 3/4/5/6/7 kg is hungry and you are in the right location...and you throw a lure at it...chances are you will hook it...landing it is the tricky part...so long as your equipment is setup correctly and you have spent the time on the water getting familar using it...and you dont panic like most of us do...even after all these years i still panic when i see a big fish jump....my equipment is setup a lot better than in the past...

people asked on many occassions how we (shannon and i...as team cranky) did so well...it was because every fish we hooked during the comp we landed...it wasnt because we were any better than anyone else...when we didnt win...it was because we lost fish...our bag average was 8.5 kg for the season.

line next...
 
L

Little Green Fish

Sealiner
cranky wrote:
i dont have anything bad to say about diawa because i dont use them...period...like the loomis and franklin reels i also dont have anything bad to say about them i just dont use them...i have heard good reports about all makes of reels so i dont want to turn this thread into a reel shoot out...it is all about personal choice.

unfortunately i cant afford to keep replacing reels so i just use shimano...i also cant afford to buy cheap shimano reels...i would nt buy anything less than a chronach...why because the last couple curados i used for cranking...only lasted one season form new...wound the bearings in their blicksem.

fishing off a kickboat really puts the reels through their paces...the reels spend lots of time soaked in water...get banged around and need to be strong to get fish out of cover.

reels...

the reel you use to catch PBs...must have a good smooth drag...why because if your drag is sticky...big mama will take your lure when it turns and the drag sticks...especially if you are using light line.

the way to overcome this problem if you choose not to buy good quality reels with a smooth drag...then you can learn to thumb the spool...but this is tricky and it is dificult to reel the fish when it is time...you have to drop the rod tip and reel the line up...then thumb the spool again....if you give tooo much slack you will also loose the fish.

i found when i started off i went out and purchased a whole lot of cheap reels so that i could have different setups on the boat...big mistake...looking back i could have had a better selection now...if i had been patient and bought i good reel at a time....they also last a lot longer.

the reel is also important for casting...as you know the further you cast the longer the lure is in the strike zone...and if you fish from the bank the reel is even more important.

if you want to pitch and flip...quality reel even more important...you will pitch more acurately with less overwinds...overwinds will occur even if you have a good reel but just less of them...i also found when pitching you need to lock the reel a lot quicker the fish will take the lure as it hits the water...the cheaper reels dont always lock closed when you need it...KVD is one of the best fisherman in the world...because he can pitch anf flip so well...watch some of his DVDs and you will see how he puts the lure into a spot without a splash...sometime you dont even see it land...the only way to achieve that...a good rod reel combination...being super quiet like that could produce bigger fish.

just a tip about lure presentation...dont always skim the lure across the surface...i have found with frog fishing...sometimes a high pitch making a big splash right next to the side will get the bass to grab the lure...it might seem like the lure has just jumped into the water from the bank by doing this...some of my biggest bass have been caught doing this.

a reel must be comfortable in your hand so the profile is important...fishing with a penn 500 for example would be a mission to fish with all day long.

you will notice most of the new reels sit lower on the rod...for better comfort.

when it comes to cranking...you will punish any reel using DD22s...so i decided to get a callcutta DC...been using it since 2006 and it still works like a dream.

you reel is very important for sensitivity...if your reel is not smooth...you wont know the difference between the structure and bites...i personally dont use my reel to crank i use the rod to move the crankbait then...reel up the slack...only sometimes when i fish rapala dt series baits do i reel the crank in...or a DD22...fishing very slowly.

i am not going to go into gear ratios...just know a slow retrieve reel has more power and the faster reels where a lot more dififcult to wind in a DD2...but with new technology they all have power...so fishing a 6.1.1 could be used for cranking big deep divers...you would just have to turn the handle a lot slower

the way i see it why drive a BMW when you can drive a merc...a BM is like riding an off road bike on a chicken run...compared to a merc...and then the fight started::S



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Click to expand...
You see what I meant by study and start narrowing down, now I'm working this soccer thingy like crazy and hopefully soon will have sum xtra bucks to get some sort of video recording device to take a short vid of how I get to "call" the bass using that very same extreme splash, but it works not all over but again study the specific body of water and make notes of how they eat, what they eat and where there drive thru's are.
 
C

cranky

Senior Member
just be careful pin pointing specific spots and using the same lures...you will notice the bass get caught in a specific place but once other people get to know where the bass are they will fish the spot until there are longer bass there...i think the bass get smart and move after getting nailed in a specific spot....i have a book on the scientific approuch to bass fishing...which indicates that a bass is smart and will learn not eat specific things...they learn for example that the sound of a trolling motor is a bad thing and move away or go deeper...that could be why when you pull a lure behind the boat they think the noise is moving away so they take the lure

i could be way wrong but it sounds logical...considering some of my bigger fish have been caught while practising for a comp...with a lure dragging behind the boat.

i have also noticed when fishing with people who get bored and just hang the rod off the back and drag the lure tend to catch got quality fish

 

 
 
C

cranky

Senior Member
line selection...

you must select the line according to the rod rating...it will have a range suitable indicated just above the handle...

what type of line you use is a personal choice...so people like braid others like stretchy line...it is a personal preference...you can read up about which line floats and sinks...and which has stretch and doesnt ...

some people will tell you not to use 10 lb line in thick cover...i would agree and thats why i use 50lb power pro braid...but mr da silva has proved me wrong on this as well...fishing in lily pads at bells lake...i couldnt land a fish...he was using 10 lb with his small light tackle like he always does...hook and landing 2 kg + fish in the thickest stuff...it is all about leading the fish...when you perfect this...you will become a better angler.

when i fish slider rigs...the hook is very small and light...you can almost straighten it by just pulling it with your hands...so no matter what line you use...which is normally 6/8 or 10 lb you still cant winch the fish in...you have to make sure your drag is set correctly and you have to lead the fish to the boat...the problem with this type of fishing is you catch big fish using this method so it becomes an art landing them.

i heard a comment the other day while fishing on my kickboat...he said one day when he gets a boat he will learn to become a proper bass fisherman...

a fact...a person who rides scramblers before they ride superbikes...become better riders.

kickboat fishing teaches you to slow down and fish an area more thorough...

just like scramblers teaches you to slide out etc...when you get into a slide at 240 km/hr on a super bike you just turn the handle bar like you would when sliding on the dirt...keep the throttle open and ride it out...guys who dont know how to ride like that...panic brake and high side...one of the reasons i never ride in the pack...either in the front or right at the back...when you going through a corner at 200 + and a person on the inside is a newby to riding and your shoulder is just about touching his foot peg as you are leaning into the corner...its not a good place to be...especially if the person has only ridden super bikes.

anyway back to fishing...and line

the line is the link between you and the fish...if you dont tie good knots and recheck all the time...you can wave the fish goodbye

i found tying a a knot on the tag end of braid prevents it from slipping thru.

remeber lots of spit...pulling a dry knot generates a lot of heat.

take the time to check your line...take about a metre and pull on it...if it snaps...respool...unless of course it is 6 or 8 lb and you jerk tooo hard

just pull tension on the line...sometimes brand new line is faulty and snaps when you do this test...rather respool.


learn to fish the line thickness...in other words dont try winch fish using light line.

also dont put a light framed hook onto 50 lb braid unless you understand it will snap if you reel down and wackit.

next terminal tackle...

 


 
 
C

cranky

Senior Member
thanks...

terminal tackle...where do i start..

lets start with sinkers...

why use a sinker...to get your bait  to a depth where you think the fish are active...or get your bait to create an action to attract the bass to bite.

you must be careful of sinkers which can cut you line...it pays to spend a little more if you use titanium...because they have the insert to protect you line from getting damaged...

putting a bead between the hook and sinker is to protect the knot...thats why the bead should have a big hole...i was always under the impression that it was to make a clicking sound to attract fish...well it can be used for that as an added bonus...you must then use glass beads with titanium sinkers.

i see there are different colour sinkers out now...only problem is if you  change from a green to a purple lure than you must change the sinker...

sinkers are also used when it is windy to keep the bait in position...a big carolina rig for example...

when you use a lure like a dead ringer a sinker must be big enough to make the tail ripple as it sinks creating an action the bass find hard to resist...where as using a senko for example you dont always want the lure to sink fast or pull the lure front first...you want the lure to stay straight and sink slowly...i found putting solder onto the hook helps balance the lure while sinking.

you get a spinnerbait blade dip works great for changing sinker colours.

when pitching and flipping to cover...peg the sinker on a texas or mojo rig with a small rubber you can slide onto the line...what is great about the rubber...is you can slide it up the line to allow the sinker to move and click on the bead or allow the bass to pick up the lure without any tension on the line.

one problem with a heavy sinker...with the sinker swinging around it can pull the hook loose...

when using a glass bead do periodic checks...the sinker breaks the glass bead then starts damaging your knot...


becareful when retrieving a sinker stuck in structure on the side of the dam...if you pull really hard and that sinker comes loose it can make a bad bruise if it hits you.


 

 

 
 
C

cranky

Senior Member
hooks...are a very important part of your tackle...

be very particular when selecting hooks...

why because you need to make sure you select the correct hook for the different size line...why...simple if you use light line dont put a thick heavy duty no 6 hook on the end... because it will be difficult to set the hook...without snapping the line...

if you use light line use light gauge hooks...it is easier to set the hook.

sometimes i use a very light hook if i want my weightless fluke to sink slowly...other times i will use a bigger hook to sink the fluke faster without using a weight or sinker.

the shape of the hook is also important...if the lure is thick...an ewg would be a better option...but sometimes if the water is clear it pays to use a straight hook to hide it...it just becomes more difficult to set the hook.

dont bury the hook deep in the plastic lure no matter how thick the cover...just skin hook it.

with frog fishing for example...dont push the hook through the body rather use a bigger longer hook and take it between the legs and just skin hook it...it should improve your strike rate.

colour hooks like red...do work better on topwater lures...crankbaits i am a bit dubious...i put red hooks onto some of my cranks and stopped catching fish with them...but i wouldnt take my word for it...i have heard people say red hooks work better...

the most important thing about a hook is it must stay sharp...the mouth of the bass is hard as you all know...so penertrating it can be difficult if the hook is blunt...ever tried to cut a tomato with a blunt knife...pretty much the same as what happens if you hook is blunt.

when using braid use strong hooks otherwise you will snap them...like i have done on numerous occasions...thats why i love my gloomis frog rod...rated for braid...i have snapped hooks and the 50 lb braid...but my rod is still strong...a couple of years back i fished the ibc and rushed down to the dam wall thru out a frog...got a hit reeled down in all the excitement and whacked it..big mistake...i thought i had broken my wrist...snapped the hook in half and lost the fish...i knew it was a good fish by the swirl...but waved good bye...

your rod...line and hooks are the most important part of fishing

make a mistake selecting these item and you will loose "big fish"

when fishing on your own always keep a pair of pliers on you...if you get a hook in your finger and it gets stuck on the carpet and in a fishes mouth...while a fish is jumping around...it could prove a challenge if the pliers are in the hatch and you cant move...eeeeina 




 

 

 
 
B

basslover

Senior Member
Man i wish i had time to read all of this, Cranky nice post.
This is not new news for me, but i can confirm that, all he has said and what i have read is true...
I would say one of your most important pieces of tackle is your hooks, we had a club comp on and i lost 2 winning fish because of cheap and blunt hooks, rather spend a little bit more money on your hooks than on these fancy rods and reels.
Fishing Line is also a very important part of your terminal tackle, make sure you find the right line that works for YOU...
Some people prefer berkley fluoro and others prefer something more expensive or even cheaper... I love using Siglon fluoro its cheaper than the other makes, but it works for me and i know of a few other people that love using it. When it comes to mono i use berkley big game. BUT AGAIN I SAY, CHOOSE SOMETHING THAT WORKS FOR YOU ( Like cranky said "the more familiar you become with your equipment...the easier it will becomes to land fish" ...it takes time to find the perfect one but its worth the wait.

Always check your line for damage and also your hooks for sharpness.

Well i hope this helps...dont know if one of you mentioned it, but if you did then it just confirms that its a very important part of hunting for your PB.
 
C

cranky

Senior Member
i agree posts a far too long...i started reading it to see what i had left out and stopped because it is toooo long
i will shorten the posts and be more specific
 
S

sustan

New member
lost my " could have been PB" today...got it right up to the boat after a nice fight but forgot my net at home, so i asked a friend to pick it out but as he tried i had reeled in to much line and the fish struggled and snapped the 10lb mono...wasnt enough stretch in the remaining line i think

fail...oh well next time
 
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