Pull tight or give slack

basslover

Senior Member
hehehe...bjornh, i was just asking the question to get your oppinions maybe theres something that i can use...you know...
I caught a 3kg bass on a "floppy fibreglass" stick??
But i must say, started fishing with graphite sticks the past month and damn does it make a difference...WOW
 

Andre Laas

Sealiner
Would changing treble hooks for single wide gap hooks make a difference in terms of fish throwing the hook on a jump? I replace all trebles with wide gap singles, and also only use one hook at the back of the lure and ditch the front one. So far I did not find that I miss any fish this way, but then again, I have not been bassin much at all!
 

Johanvc

Sealiner
Well here is my 2c worth. I always keep tension on the line and as soon as I see the fish coming up to jump I push my rod tip down in to the water. That way the fish can’t jump out the water and do a nice waive wile tail walking and shaking his head and sending you a nice pressy and you teaching some of your fellow anglers some new words
 
[color=#006600]Critter[/color] wrote:
Would changing treble hooks for single wide gap hooks make a difference in terms of fish throwing the hook on a jump? I replace all trebles with wide gap singles, and also only use one hook at the back of the lure and ditch the front one. So far I did not find that I miss any fish this way, but then again, I have not been bassin much at all!

I did that once but replaced all the original trebles again cause i noticed that changing the hooks affects the original movement of the hard-baits and spinners, rather what I do with jerkbaits and the likes is that I changed my retrieve, this results in proper hooksets treble or not, head-shakes, tail-dancing, premature ESA two-steps it doesn't matter, I get them right into daduckies toons.... and hardly ever loose a fish due to this, also my hookups and strike rate has improved very much!!!

All the above however means absolutely squat if you can't stay ontop of daducky and if the hyacinth growth keeps you miles from the fish.....
 

pomerob

New member
Line is also important whilst cranking.

Whilst it is recommended on using a medium rod for cranking it is also advised to use mono, this has stretch in it a compensates somewhat, avoiding the extreme tight or slack line you would get if you were using fluoro. Most international pros recommend a 10lb or lighter mono line. Personally I don't like using less than 12lb. 10lb is supposed to give you the most accurate depth of the lure as to it's rating.

Sorry Bjornh, I don't know your background as you don't know mine, but I don't agree with your statement, ask any rod manufacturer what they recommend for cranking and it is a soft rod, as Revo mentioned all rods specifically made for cranking (american rodsmith, G Loomis etc etc) have a soft tip. Some of the more expensive cranking Rods are indeed floppy fiberglass sticks :-0

http://www.americanrodsmiths.com/Products/DavidFrittsEGlassCrankbaitModels/tabid/106/Default.aspx
 

pomerob

New member
Dont take my word for it this is what the pro's say.

Buzzbaits and spinnerbaits:
With buzzbaits and spinnerbaits, you will be casting continuously, so a lightweight rod is important. Sensitivity is also essential because many times the fish will bump the blades prior to striking. A 6-foot rod will give a little more casting accuracy, but a 7-foot rod will give you more hooksetting power, leverage and casting distance. A fiberglass rod will give the fish time to inhale the bait before you set the hook. These baits use a single hook, allowing you to put more pressure on the fish during the fight so a medium-action rod would allow enough power to land the fish. The tip needs be flexible enough to cast the lure accurately.
Best rod: Lightweight, sensitive, 6 1/2-foot- to 7-foot rod with a medium action and a medium/soft tip.
fishing tips knots recipes red eye white bass fishing wallpaper

Crankbaits and topwater lures:
As spinnerbaits, crankbaits and topwater lures require continuous casting, so weight is an important factor. Sensitivity is also important, not so much for topwater but for cranking. After you get accustomed to the bait you're using, a sensitive rod will help you determine what type of structure the bait is contacting. If the fish are on a hard clay bottom and you know your bait is digging into the mud then you know you are in the wrong location.
A 7-foot rod is good for distance and for casting larger baits. A 6- to 6 1/2-foot rod is more accurate, so you have to adjust the rod length to the type of fishing you do. Crankbait and topwater rods should be made of fiberglass, which allows the fish time to inhale the bait before you set the hook. The treble hooks on crankbaits and topwater lures can dislodge if you apply too much pressure. The added flex of a fiberglass rod will keep the hooks from coming unbuttoned.
A medium action rod is usually fine so long as the rod has enough backbone to get a good hookset and flexible enough to cast the lure you are using. A 1/8-ounce lure needs a light tip while a 314-ounce lure requires a medium tip.
Best rod: A lightweight, sensitive, 6- to 7-foot fiberglass rod with a medium action tip or a light action tip, depending on the weight of the lure.
fishing tips knots recipes red eye white bass fishing wallpaper

Worms and jigs:
As worm fishing varies from east to west, this example will be for fishing small worms 4 to 6 inches, and smaller finesse jigs in water from 5 to 60 feet deep.
When fishing deep water, the two most important factors are sensitivity and weight. Sensitivity is crucial to feel the more subtle bites and weight is important because you will be holding the rod up in the 9 to 10 o'clock positions for long periods of time.
Use a 6 1/2- to 7 1/2-foot rod, depending on your preference and type of structure you are fishing. I prefer a 6 1/2-footer when fishing 20 to 60 feet deep, and a 7 1/2-footer when fishing 5 to 20 feet deep. Graphite rods are lighter, more sensitive and faster than most fiberglass rods. You want a fast rod with a medium backbone to get a good, fast, hookset. It is important to have a soft enough tip to maintain tension on the fish at all times. Many times, when you hook a fish, only the point of the hook will be embedded and unless you apply enough tension, you can get slack in the line and easily loose the fish when it gets close to the boat.
Best rod: A lightweight, highly sensitive rod, 6 1/2 feet to 7 1/2 feet, made of graphite with a medium action and a medium light tip.
fishing tips knots recipes red eye white bass fishing wallpaper

Flipping and pitching:
Flipping requires you to hold the rod near the nine o'clock position and making a pendulum motion. Weight is vital when holding the rod up for extended periods of time. Flipping rods are designed for removing fish from heavy cover in shallow water.
The recommended size would be from 7- to 8-feet long (many tournament circuits do not allow rods longer than 8-feet). A good choice would be a 7 1/2-foot rod because it is a little easier to pitch the baits. Pitching and flipping go together. Look at the tip, make sure it has some flexibility. This flexibility will make it easier for the angler to make quiet entries into the water and makes pitching much simpler when necessary.
Your flipping stick should be made of lightweight graphite and have a stiff backbone to pull those fish out of heavy cover. While sensitivity is important, usually you will see the strike long before you feet it.
Best rod: A lightweight 7 112-foot graphite rod with a stiff backbone and a medium fast tip.
Choosing the correct rod will enhance your fishing and make each trip more successful. Increase your hooksets and you'll catch more fish. Using these tips will also save you money in the long run by keeping you from purchasing rods that have little purpose in your arsenal. The right rod CAN make a difference. Give it a try!
 
Pomerob

I only use my 7ft med/heavy  spinning rod for my cranking and my 7ft med baitcaster for the plastic and so on.

I tried using my med baitcaster for cranking, but it just seems way too soft for my style, so I went back to the med/heavy spinning rod and I have massive success with cranking that way...

Anyhows, that's what works for me...
 

Ryan

Sealiner
[color=#006600]Little Green Fish[/color] wrote:
Pomerob

I only use my 7ft med/heavy  spinning rod for my cranking and my 7ft med baitcaster for the plastic and so on.

I tried using my med baitcaster for cranking, but it just seems way too soft for my style, so I went back to the med/heavy spinning rod and I have massive success with cranking that way...

Anyhows, that's what works for me...
DO YOU SLEEP?
 

Ryan

Sealiner
[color=#006600]pomerob[/color] wrote:
Dont take my word for it this is what the pro's say.

Buzzbaits and spinnerbaits:
With buzzbaits and spinnerbaits, you will be casting continuously, so a lightweight rod is important. Sensitivity is also essential because many times the fish will bump the blades prior to striking. A 6-foot rod will give a little more casting accuracy, but a 7-foot rod will give you more hooksetting power, leverage and casting distance. A fiberglass rod will give the fish time to inhale the bait before you set the hook. These baits use a single hook, allowing you to put more pressure on the fish during the fight so a medium-action rod would allow enough power to land the fish. The tip needs be flexible enough to cast the lure accurately.
Best rod: Lightweight, sensitive, 6 1/2-foot- to 7-foot rod with a medium action and a medium/soft tip.
fishing tips knots recipes red eye white bass fishing wallpaper

Crankbaits and topwater lures:
As spinnerbaits, crankbaits and topwater lures require continuous casting, so weight is an important factor. Sensitivity is also important, not so much for topwater but for cranking. After you get accustomed to the bait you're using, a sensitive rod will help you determine what type of structure the bait is contacting. If the fish are on a hard clay bottom and you know your bait is digging into the mud then you know you are in the wrong location.
A 7-foot rod is good for distance and for casting larger baits. A 6- to 6 1/2-foot rod is more accurate, so you have to adjust the rod length to the type of fishing you do. Crankbait and topwater rods should be made of fiberglass, which allows the fish time to inhale the bait before you set the hook. The treble hooks on crankbaits and topwater lures can dislodge if you apply too much pressure. The added flex of a fiberglass rod will keep the hooks from coming unbuttoned.
A medium action rod is usually fine so long as the rod has enough backbone to get a good hookset and flexible enough to cast the lure you are using. A 1/8-ounce lure needs a light tip while a 314-ounce lure requires a medium tip.
Best rod: A lightweight, sensitive, 6- to 7-foot fiberglass rod with a medium action tip or a light action tip, depending on the weight of the lure.
fishing tips knots recipes red eye white bass fishing wallpaper

Worms and jigs:
As worm fishing varies from east to west, this example will be for fishing small worms 4 to 6 inches, and smaller finesse jigs in water from 5 to 60 feet deep.
When fishing deep water, the two most important factors are sensitivity and weight. Sensitivity is crucial to feel the more subtle bites and weight is important because you will be holding the rod up in the 9 to 10 o'clock positions for long periods of time.
Use a 6 1/2- to 7 1/2-foot rod, depending on your preference and type of structure you are fishing. I prefer a 6 1/2-footer when fishing 20 to 60 feet deep, and a 7 1/2-footer when fishing 5 to 20 feet deep. Graphite rods are lighter, more sensitive and faster than most fiberglass rods. You want a fast rod with a medium backbone to get a good, fast, hookset. It is important to have a soft enough tip to maintain tension on the fish at all times. Many times, when you hook a fish, only the point of the hook will be embedded and unless you apply enough tension, you can get slack in the line and easily loose the fish when it gets close to the boat.
Best rod: A lightweight, highly sensitive rod, 6 1/2 feet to 7 1/2 feet, made of graphite with a medium action and a medium light tip.
fishing tips knots recipes red eye white bass fishing wallpaper

Flipping and pitching:
Flipping requires you to hold the rod near the nine o'clock position and making a pendulum motion. Weight is vital when holding the rod up for extended periods of time. Flipping rods are designed for removing fish from heavy cover in shallow water.
The recommended size would be from 7- to 8-feet long (many tournament circuits do not allow rods longer than 8-feet). A good choice would be a 7 1/2-foot rod because it is a little easier to pitch the baits. Pitching and flipping go together. Look at the tip, make sure it has some flexibility. This flexibility will make it easier for the angler to make quiet entries into the water and makes pitching much simpler when necessary.
Your flipping stick should be made of lightweight graphite and have a stiff backbone to pull those fish out of heavy cover. While sensitivity is important, usually you will see the strike long before you feet it.
Best rod: A lightweight 7 112-foot graphite rod with a stiff backbone and a medium fast tip.
Choosing the correct rod will enhance your fishing and make each trip more successful. Increase your hooksets and you'll catch more fish. Using these tips will also save you money in the long run by keeping you from purchasing rods that have little purpose in your arsenal. The right rod CAN make a difference. Give it a try!
 

Manna for you and thank you for your informative contributions to the bass section of sealine......::S
 
[color=#0066cc]Ryan[/color] wrote:
[color=#006600]Little Green Fish[/color] wrote:
Pomerob

I only use my 7ft med/heavy  spinning rod for my cranking and my 7ft med baitcaster for the plastic and so on.

I tried using my med baitcaster for cranking, but it just seems way too soft for my style, so I went back to the med/heavy spinning rod and I have massive success with cranking that way...

Anyhows, that's what works for me...
DO YOU SLEEP?
Thanks to various factors beyond my control I think I can Comfortably say NO!
 

Ryan

Sealiner
[color=#006600]Little Green Fish[/color] wrote:
[color=#0066cc]Ryan[/color] wrote:
[color=#006600]Little Green Fish[/color] wrote:
Pomerob

I only use my 7ft med/heavy  spinning rod for my cranking and my 7ft med baitcaster for the plastic and so on.

I tried using my med baitcaster for cranking, but it just seems way too soft for my style, so I went back to the med/heavy spinning rod and I have massive success with cranking that way...

Anyhows, that's what works for me...
DO YOU SLEEP?
Thanks to various factors beyond my control I think I can Comfortably say NO!
Thoughts are with you o buddy o pal..............:::S
 

bjornh

Senior Member
Pomerob...stiff rod doesnt have to mean a pole:) we leave that for flipping hehe
one needs 'give' when cranking purely so one doesnt pull the hooks out, so yes a med to med/heavy action is suggested..most fibreglass sticks however would register as light or ultra-light actions and as we all know any slack line is BAD news.
for a while i was using my fenwick HMG (a pole of note!) for cranking...believe it...'cos its true' and funny enough i hardly pulled the hooks out but the feel wasn't there. Now i've got myself one of the most underated rods on the market, a shimano clarus 6'6 1 piece casting and i'm loving it! the fenwick is used for my jigs, topwater frog and carolina rigging where it belongs!
 

pomerob

New member
[color="#006600"]bjornh[/color] wrote:
Pomerob...stiff rod doesnt have to mean a pole:) we leave that for flipping hehe
one needs 'give' when cranking purely so one doesnt pull the hooks out, so yes a med to med/heavy action is suggested..most fibreglass sticks however would register as light or ultra-light actions and as we all know any slack line is BAD news.
for a while i was using my fenwick HMG (a pole of note!) for cranking...believe it...'cos its true' and funny enough i hardly pulled the hooks out but the feel wasn't there. Now i've got myself one of the most underated rods on the market, a shimano clarus 6'6 1 piece casting and i'm loving it! the fenwick is used for my jigs, topwater frog and carolina rigging where it belongs!
I use Fenwick HMG's for all my fishing however I do have a variety of different lengths and actions and use the 7ft medium for cranking. Fenwick have a stunning 8'6 cranking rod, dont know why I havent got one yet.
 
[color=#006600]pomerob[/color] wrote:
I use Fenwick HMG's for all my fishing however I do have a variety of different lengths and actions and use the 7ft medium for cranking. Fenwick have a stunning 8'6 cranking rod, dont know why I havent got one yet.
I haven't bought anything fishing related since well I can't remember when, just wait till this economic slump turns around, ....... Note to self play the Lotto!!!
 

BucknutZ

New member
Note to myself "Someone sounds very stinjy"

I need to buy a baitcaster and new rod aswell as new (stronger line).
 
[color=#006600]BucknutZ[/color] wrote:
Note to myself "Someone sounds very stinjy"

I need to buy a baitcaster and new rod aswell as new (stronger line).
Stingy, moi, Never!!!! check out some of the posts on tackle think it was called "When is enough enough" I just currently a wee bit :cens when it comes to cash and printing it as my printer konked out a couple of months ago.......
 

BucknutZ

New member
lol.....mate that makes you sound even more stinjy, a printer costs R400.

Maybe you should sell daducky to me?

:)

Just kidding lgf
 
Now that should give you some idea of just how :cens i am, can't even repair the printer that prints the money, hence i started painting it, but they seem to attract some lifted eyebrows, involutary movement of clerks arms and fingers towards telephonic devices and the evident running till i fall down, 10meters further...:shock:
 
Top