I must admit that I was sceptical at first when I read this post. I felt that if the ears on the pawl were tight and it was oiled and not greased then there should be no problem with the pawl engaging. Then I crossed over to the dark side of Shimano and got myself a Torium 30. I did the other upgrades and was convinced that with regular maintenance this mod would not be necessary.
I was wrong, within a few hard pulls the antireverse pawl was looking very 2nd hand. So I had a close look at how this all works. If the pawl is half way between the teeth then it does not have enough time to engage 100
% and you have maybe 50% contact area between the pawl and dog gear. This is aggrevated by the fact that the Shimano anti-reverse bearing & the sideplate? seem to have a lot of flex. So even though the bearing doesn't slip the flex in the anti-reverse assembly allows the hanldle shaft to reverse a little and engage the anti reverse pawl. This will only happen when the pawl is halfway of less between the teeth. This mean that the flex allows the pawl to engage but with only a 50% or less contact area. If the pawl is further away you won't have the problem as if the pawl does reach it will be 100% engaged.
So if you have the spring the pawl is always 100% engaged!!!! as it doesn't rely on turning backwards to engage. If your a sceptic have a look at most damaged pawls and you'll notice that at first the damage is generally less than half the height of the tooth on the dog gear.
The irritating drag clicker spring is inded the perfect size and is put to much better use making your Torium click rather than shooting that little pin across the room everytime you remove the star drag.
So if you're a sceptic like me and you think your Torium or Trinidad?? doesn't need this mod then you're wrong. It probably isn't necessary for edibles with .45 line BUT rather safe than sorry.