Knots
- Thread starter Mr Zak
- Start date
.Generaal.
New member
bigmouth, what's your reason for the long leader?
Droomvanger
Senior Member
How do you connect braid to braid?
CarloT wrote:
Don't know if the same principal applies to freshwater as to salt.
A leader is there to protect your terminal tackle, meaning should there be obstructions under water which can damage your line a leader line takes all the abuse, and so protects your thinner main line.
Also when casting that you don't put all the pressure on your (thin) mainline. You tend to break off when casting real hard with just your mainline.
The type of knot you use in many cases determines the size of the knot. As the freshwater guys use a thinner dia line their knots will obviously be smaller, and have no more effect on the guides than our bigger knots on bigger guides.
I make my leader 1x rod length + casting drop ( top guide to swivel ) and then have 2 or 3 loops on my reel. This then covers both top descriptions.
See the knot section for diffrent knots.
To connect braid to braid I will suggest in the freshwater scenario to use a UNI to UNI or FIGURE 8 to FIGURE 8.
The reason for this is I don't think you apply the same pressure to fish as we do in salt, and these will work
There are stronger like bimini to cats paw, or spider to Yucutan, bur that leaves you with a loop and as there are a lot of obstacles in the fresh I will be scared for a snag-up.
If you see your braid to braid tends to break under great pressure it is wise to double up on the line in the knot itself--meaning fold the line double when making the knot.
Any of these knots should have no effect on a baitcaster.
Don't know if the same principal applies to freshwater as to salt.
A leader is there to protect your terminal tackle, meaning should there be obstructions under water which can damage your line a leader line takes all the abuse, and so protects your thinner main line.
Also when casting that you don't put all the pressure on your (thin) mainline. You tend to break off when casting real hard with just your mainline.
The type of knot you use in many cases determines the size of the knot. As the freshwater guys use a thinner dia line their knots will obviously be smaller, and have no more effect on the guides than our bigger knots on bigger guides.
I make my leader 1x rod length + casting drop ( top guide to swivel ) and then have 2 or 3 loops on my reel. This then covers both top descriptions.
See the knot section for diffrent knots.
To connect braid to braid I will suggest in the freshwater scenario to use a UNI to UNI or FIGURE 8 to FIGURE 8.
The reason for this is I don't think you apply the same pressure to fish as we do in salt, and these will work
There are stronger like bimini to cats paw, or spider to Yucutan, bur that leaves you with a loop and as there are a lot of obstacles in the fresh I will be scared for a snag-up.
If you see your braid to braid tends to break under great pressure it is wise to double up on the line in the knot itself--meaning fold the line double when making the knot.
Any of these knots should have no effect on a baitcaster.
Mr Zak wrote:
Sorry left your question
To connect braid to fluoro ( without having a loop ) I would suggest you use the SPYKER KNOT--see the FAQ section it is explained with graphics step by step.
Just a question why will you use a leader of 10lb and a main line of 50lb. The dia of the 2 will be very different.
Check the dia of both and place them--you will probably see that you will be able to decrease your mainline dia considerably.
I would suggest to up your leader line a bit and down your mainline. the 2 in relation do not make sense.
Sorry left your question
To connect braid to fluoro ( without having a loop ) I would suggest you use the SPYKER KNOT--see the FAQ section it is explained with graphics step by step.
Just a question why will you use a leader of 10lb and a main line of 50lb. The dia of the 2 will be very different.
Check the dia of both and place them--you will probably see that you will be able to decrease your mainline dia considerably.
I would suggest to up your leader line a bit and down your mainline. the 2 in relation do not make sense.
Thanks for all the info guys...i bought some 20LB Mccoy Braid today and im going to try it with 17lb fluoro, this will be my livebait rig for catfish and bass.
Then i will use 20lb braid with 14lb fluoro for my worming rig.
Do you guys reckon this will work good??
I love the sensitivity of braid, thats why i can just think it will be awesome for worming?
Then i will use 20lb braid with 14lb fluoro for my worming rig.
Do you guys reckon this will work good??
I love the sensitivity of braid, thats why i can just think it will be awesome for worming?
Mr Zak wrote:
When looking at braid as a mainline, do not look at the breaking strain thereof but more at the dia.
50lb braid (I guess ) is about ,27 to.3mm in dia. That makes it a heavy ( not thick ) braid for freshwater.
Strickly speaking your leader is always thicker than your mainline. No if you want to compare breaking strains you should go for say 55lb leader. Now this wont work as you will have Rock and Surf tackle trying to catch a carp.
OK so with braid that rule does not apply. I suggest you decrease your braid dia to .18 or .2 mm at the most. It will still be very strong but lighter and on your smaller tackle more easy to handle.
When looking at braid as a mainline, do not look at the breaking strain thereof but more at the dia.
50lb braid (I guess ) is about ,27 to.3mm in dia. That makes it a heavy ( not thick ) braid for freshwater.
Strickly speaking your leader is always thicker than your mainline. No if you want to compare breaking strains you should go for say 55lb leader. Now this wont work as you will have Rock and Surf tackle trying to catch a carp.
OK so with braid that rule does not apply. I suggest you decrease your braid dia to .18 or .2 mm at the most. It will still be very strong but lighter and on your smaller tackle more easy to handle.