Hi I would like to start bassfishing. The problem
- Thread starter Osie
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[u]Johanvc[/u] can you suggest a rod for for a baitcaster preferbly something stiff but wont cost me the earth i been looking around and to buy a baitcaster and rod but the tackle shops here are usless and am not sure what to do now. the other thing is how do you test the stiffness of a rod as i have to rods both medium heavy action but the one is stiff and the other is as stiff as eighty year old man that does not know what viagra is.
can you help?
can you help?
bandit365 wrote:
The difference might be the action of the rod. Remember that you get different medium/heavy action rods
This is what action means Action: This describes how much of the rod deflects (bends) when you put pressure on the tip. A fast action rod will bend in only the top third or less of the blank, a medium or moderate action will bend in the top half or so and a slow action will bend starting in the lower third of the rod. Sometimes slow action rods are termed 'parabolic', meaning the bend of the rod is similar throughout the length. This description is subject to the type of rod you may be talking about at the time; a fast action fly rod or steelhead rod will bend much lower and more easily than a fast action bass rod or offshore rod.
Most bass rod actions are fast to very fast because this action generally provides better sensitivity and faster power for hook setting. By faster power we mean the rod 'shuts off' faster, or the bend ends higher on the blank, which means you don't have to move the rod as far on the hookset to get into the stiffer part of the blank. Fast action rods are great for most applications where a short to long casting distance is involved and single hooks are the rule, such as worm and jig fishing.
Medium and medium-fast rods will usually provide a little more casting distance and still provide adequate hooksetting power. These actions are often used for applications that involve treble hooks, such as crankbaits and topwater lures or other reaction baits such as spinnerbaits. The 'bite' of a treble hook is not as deep as a big single worm hook and it is easier to tear the hook out of a strong fish, plus the slower action will not pull the lure out of the fish's mouth before it fully engulfs it. The type of lure you use will usually determine the action of the rod you should use.
Taper: Often used synonymously with "action", taper describes not only the thickness of the rod but also the thickness of the wall of the blank and where along the blank less material is used allowing more bend. For our purposes taper is the same as action.
Power: This describes the strength of the rod or it's lifting power. When someone says this rod has a lot of backbone, they mean it has a lot of power. Power ratings are usually describes as heavy, medium heavy, medium, etc. Power is closely related to the line strength; heavier power rods will handle heavy line weights and lighter powers will be good for light lines. It is fairly important to keep your line test within the limits printed on the rod since a heavy power rod will snap light lines too easily and heavy lines can snap a light rod. Power ratings vary by the type of rod described; a heavy bass rod and a heavy offshore rod will definitely not feel the same. One might be rated for 25lb line and the other for 80lb line.
The type of water you're fishing will help determine the power of the rod you should select. Thick, heavy cover will require a strong rod to get the fish out before it can tie you up. Clear, open water will often require thin, hard to see lines in order to get bit, meaning you will need a lighter power rod.
Responsiveness: Related to modulus this is an idea that reflects the ability of the entire rod to flex under load and release the stored energy in the cast. As we will see below, a finished rod may be the result of different layers of different material, all of which contributes to the responsiveness of the rod. One thing is for sure, the lighter the rod, especially the tip, the more responsive it will be. As Gary Loomis puts it, weight is the deterrent to performance. Overall, the higher the modulus the more efficiently it will store and release energy, which gives you the ability to flick an accurate cast on a lower trajectory.
This article is from Tacklewarehouse
the other thing is how do you test the stiffness of a rod as i have to rods both medium heavy action but the one is stiff and the other is as stiff as eighty year old man that does not know what viagra is.
can you help?
The difference might be the action of the rod. Remember that you get different medium/heavy action rods
This is what action means Action: This describes how much of the rod deflects (bends) when you put pressure on the tip. A fast action rod will bend in only the top third or less of the blank, a medium or moderate action will bend in the top half or so and a slow action will bend starting in the lower third of the rod. Sometimes slow action rods are termed 'parabolic', meaning the bend of the rod is similar throughout the length. This description is subject to the type of rod you may be talking about at the time; a fast action fly rod or steelhead rod will bend much lower and more easily than a fast action bass rod or offshore rod.
Most bass rod actions are fast to very fast because this action generally provides better sensitivity and faster power for hook setting. By faster power we mean the rod 'shuts off' faster, or the bend ends higher on the blank, which means you don't have to move the rod as far on the hookset to get into the stiffer part of the blank. Fast action rods are great for most applications where a short to long casting distance is involved and single hooks are the rule, such as worm and jig fishing.
Medium and medium-fast rods will usually provide a little more casting distance and still provide adequate hooksetting power. These actions are often used for applications that involve treble hooks, such as crankbaits and topwater lures or other reaction baits such as spinnerbaits. The 'bite' of a treble hook is not as deep as a big single worm hook and it is easier to tear the hook out of a strong fish, plus the slower action will not pull the lure out of the fish's mouth before it fully engulfs it. The type of lure you use will usually determine the action of the rod you should use.
Taper: Often used synonymously with "action", taper describes not only the thickness of the rod but also the thickness of the wall of the blank and where along the blank less material is used allowing more bend. For our purposes taper is the same as action.
Power: This describes the strength of the rod or it's lifting power. When someone says this rod has a lot of backbone, they mean it has a lot of power. Power ratings are usually describes as heavy, medium heavy, medium, etc. Power is closely related to the line strength; heavier power rods will handle heavy line weights and lighter powers will be good for light lines. It is fairly important to keep your line test within the limits printed on the rod since a heavy power rod will snap light lines too easily and heavy lines can snap a light rod. Power ratings vary by the type of rod described; a heavy bass rod and a heavy offshore rod will definitely not feel the same. One might be rated for 25lb line and the other for 80lb line.
The type of water you're fishing will help determine the power of the rod you should select. Thick, heavy cover will require a strong rod to get the fish out before it can tie you up. Clear, open water will often require thin, hard to see lines in order to get bit, meaning you will need a lighter power rod.
Responsiveness: Related to modulus this is an idea that reflects the ability of the entire rod to flex under load and release the stored energy in the cast. As we will see below, a finished rod may be the result of different layers of different material, all of which contributes to the responsiveness of the rod. One thing is for sure, the lighter the rod, especially the tip, the more responsive it will be. As Gary Loomis puts it, weight is the deterrent to performance. Overall, the higher the modulus the more efficiently it will store and release energy, which gives you the ability to flick an accurate cast on a lower trajectory.
This article is from Tacklewarehouse
for pastics mainly, i just found that i feel things better with a stiffer rod?
or am i way of what off? been using a spinning reel and need to make the moove to a baitcaster and want to a decent rod dont want to go spend monney on a rod that not going to work, like the last one i got that is so slap.
excuse my ignorance but i thought that it was better to have a stiffer rod?
sorry only been doing this for 7 months
or am i way of what off? been using a spinning reel and need to make the moove to a baitcaster and want to a decent rod dont want to go spend monney on a rod that not going to work, like the last one i got that is so slap.
excuse my ignorance but i thought that it was better to have a stiffer rod?
sorry only been doing this for 7 months
most of my fishing i have done weighted, but i have fished som large fluke in the past weightless but i dont do it to often.
i guess what i am saying is that maybe i need something that is a little general prurpose. i dont fish spinners to often and only use crank when i fish for smallies at one dam.
was thinking maybeget something now that a little more verisitle now and then save more cash and then start to specalise
i guess what i am saying is that maybe i need something that is a little general prurpose. i dont fish spinners to often and only use crank when i fish for smallies at one dam.
was thinking maybeget something now that a little more verisitle now and then save more cash and then start to specalise
This is what I use. I use a 7†medium Johnny Morris elite series with a fast action for my weightless applications and then for my weighted applications I use a 7†medium heavy Johnny Morris with a fast action. I get good distance on my cast and have NO problem setting the hook.
If I am fishing deep. Meaning around the 50+ foot mark then I switch to a 7†heavy browning rod with a fast Tip. With the strong back bone I can get a good hook set fishing that deep and i can power the fish away from structure.
Also if I fish thick grass I switch to my 7†heavy with a texas rig
If I am fishing deep. Meaning around the 50+ foot mark then I switch to a 7†heavy browning rod with a fast Tip. With the strong back bone I can get a good hook set fishing that deep and i can power the fish away from structure.
Also if I fish thick grass I switch to my 7†heavy with a texas rig
bandit365 wrote:
Well my recommendation would be a 7†Medium heavy with an extra fast action. That will still give you the back bone as with any medium heavy rod. But the action is a bit stiffer. Meaning it will bend more to the tip of the rod. And the sensitivity will still be great. This is based on you asking for a stiff rod.
most of my fishing i have done weighted, but i have fished som large fluke in the past weightless but i dont do it to often.
i guess what i am saying is that maybe i need something that is a little general prurpose. i dont fish spinners to often and only use crank when i fish for smallies at one dam.
was thinking maybeget something now that a little more verisitle now and then save more cash and then start to specalise
Well my recommendation would be a 7†Medium heavy with an extra fast action. That will still give you the back bone as with any medium heavy rod. But the action is a bit stiffer. Meaning it will bend more to the tip of the rod. And the sensitivity will still be great. This is based on you asking for a stiff rod.
CarloT wrote:
LMAO I just wanted to correct you about the amount of stuff I had on your boat. But then i saw you did say half. HA HA HA i don’t have that much
VC has got more tackle than most of the shops I have been to. He almost sunk my boat with all his stuff... a.. I mean half his stuff. Go fishing with him and raid his stuff. I'm gonna do that very soon! hahaha
LMAO I just wanted to correct you about the amount of stuff I had on your boat. But then i saw you did say half. HA HA HA i don’t have that much