Hand carve to plastic

scott harley wrote:
I was aiming for a subsurface darter type of stick but I think it's shape is the limiting factor here having said that it only needs 3 grams in the front of the lure to sink level.

Many prefer the tail end to hang lower. I watch Paul Adams' videos on YouTube and believe he is one of them that like the tail of the lure to sink faster than the front.
 

scott harley

New member
This is the first test swim of this lure and there are some positives. The negative is that all variations had a tendency to roll at faster retrieve speeds due to the center of gravity being to close to the center of the lure. One point to mention is that these lures have a tendency to get more buoyant as they cure for some reason so my initial float testing yielded a different assumption in reality. After testing I put 10g of lead into the belly in the hope that it will stabilize its tendency to roll.
 

bassbug

New member
sometimes when i buy cranks, some well established brands, i still have to tweeg the lure from swimming towards the left or towards the right side, these lures normally have a bill. would this also be in your case although you dont have a bill but a shaped head, have you tried bending the fixing point in the opposite direction of the roll and have you checked if the lure is perfectly straight (front to back, might need bending). i think adding weight could solve the problem but you may loose the desired swim.
just need to add this, by the by type of thing, i recently saw a lure with an added fin, this fin was of clear plastic and was more like an extra adaptation to steer the lure in intended direction, just dont know on which site i saw it, sorry, but could be idea for future builds or something to consider
 

scott harley

New member
Thanks for the follow input I really appreciate your reply. I still need to test with the addition of weight but I couldn't resist trying a Finnish.
 

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scott harley

New member
I couldn't attach a video from my iPhone because of file type. So my earlier comments don't make to much sense. Does anybody know how to upload video from iPhones
 
scott harley wrote:
I couldn't attach a video from my iPhone because of file type. So my earlier comments don't make to much sense. Does anybody know how to upload video from iPhones

You have to upload the video to YouTube and then post the link here.

Great work on the lure _seal1_
 

scott harley

New member
Here's the link to Dropbox for the swim test video
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewvw6mh6er0nk5s/Video%202016-11-20%2C%2011%2052%2040%20AM.mov?dl=0
 

Tackle-holic

Sealiner
Looks really good.
How does it cast? Tumble-free, at least to a point?
Was counting the number of blocks on your graph paper drawing to work out length...
Looks to be 170mm?
 

supercab

New member
Hi scott those lures look realy good gr8 colours your going to get a
Bbbbbbbiiiiiiiittttttteeeeeee on themco:first:first:first
 

scott harley

New member
Thanks for the input, you're right about the length just over 170mm. Weighs 63grams and the cast isn't really tumble free owning to the fact that it is heavier in the front of the lure and I I had to weight it in the front half of the lure to get it to sink horizontal. Having said that though it hasn't got hung up on the line yet in all the casts I have made. The one that I did make tail heavy did funnily enough.
 

scott harley

New member
Does anyone know what Finnish I can use. I'm using 2k topcoat at the moment and it's just not easy to spray through my air gun and it doesn't give a nice thick glassy Finnish. Is there an epoxy I could use.
 

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Tackle-holic

Sealiner
Etex is used by a lot of US plug builders, but have no idea if you can get it here.
or try:

BSI Slow cure (30 minute)

BSI Finish cure (20 minute)

The BSI epoxies are slightly yellow in colour

Otherwise use a rod building finish like Flexcoat. (4-6 hours to tack free)
The latest one has UV inhibitors in it and is more resistant to yellowing
Dead easy to work with, but you will need to rotate it ideally with a 6rpm motor (think microwave oven motor - 'bout R50 from local hardware store

BUT - your plug looks lekka as it is...
 

scott harley

New member
Thanks for the info, I have tried to get etex and no luck. I would prefer a crystal clear epoxy though. The lure looks fine but mixing the 2k clear coat is a pita and mixing small enough quantity for the airbrush you end up wasting plenty and all it does is make it shine I was looking for a thicker glassy finish I will try look for flex coat thanks.
 

fai-lure

New member
For a clear coat on plastic, I have heard good things about
1. Kraftex Pratliglo (http://www.kraftex.co.za/pratliglo.htm)
2. Krylon polyurethane spray (hardware store)
But I haven't used them yet.
 

scott harley

New member
Has anyone used tarbender by smooth on. It is an epoxy used for counter tops and is crystal clear and uv resistant the shore hardness is 74 and smooth cast300 is 70. So is plenty strong enough, it has to be rotated to keep it from slumping.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/851ao1cy9mic9qh/Video%202016-12-03%2C%204%2048%2018%20PM.mov?dl=0

I had to build a spinner to be able to accomplish the finish with tarbender.
 

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