I can only add this from personal experience. You might very well see the blue wall standing up in front of you and making a "bakkop" like a cobra. You have a split second to react. Don't start running. Look for a rock that might break some of the force of the water, act as a shield between you and the water and dive in behind it, no matter how smal, as long as it is lodged firmly. Most guys dont make it because that 1st wave picks them up and smacks them against the rocks, leaving them either dead/unconscious/dizzy or disorientated. Hendre's best advice is to not try and swim for the side as soon as you hit the water.