Competitive carp angling - Specimen

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momo330

Sealiner
now thread on your inline lead and push the tail rubber over the little plastic pipe that you see comming out the top of the lead
 

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momo330

Sealiner
now tie on your swivel and pull on your main line gently causing the swivel to fit snug into the bottom of the inline lead. there is a little piece of rubber tubing at the bottom of the inline that jams the swivel up in there. this helps with the hooking of the fish,because the swivel is semi fixed in there if the fish tries to run off with the bait the weight of the lead aids in giving you a better hook hold. once you start fighting the fish the swivel usually comes out of that little hiding and if you have a snap off the lead along with the tail rubber and tubing will slide of the mainline.
 
M

momo330

Sealiner
this hair rig has a little upgrade. a little piece of silicone tubing on the shank to keep the hair alligned. then heat shrink over the eye to enable the hook to turn faster.
 

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Guest

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[color=#006600]momo330[/color] wrote:
christod,you got all confused now. is there a difference in equipment when it comes to specimen carp angling and competitive specimen angling?
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Yes, there is - only slightly, as all bait applications can only be done manually and from the bank, therefor you would use (more extensively) Ketties, baiting spoons amd thowing sticks,
 
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Guest

Guest
[color=#006600]momo330[/color] wrote:
christod,you got all confused now. is there a difference in equipment when it comes to specimen carp angling and competitive specimen angling?
Click to expand...
Yes, there is - only slightly, as all bait applications can only be done manually and from the bank, therefor you would use (more extensively) Ketties, baiting spoons amd thowing sticks,
 
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Guest

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[color=#006600]Spod[/color] wrote:
Hehehe! exactly Momo330, Christo, you need to  1. forget everything you learnt conventional angling.

You may be able to use your rods and some of your tackle for now, but it is advisable to upgrade as soon as you can...
On main line, 2. I wouldnt go less than 10kg breaking strain, and you can look at mono or braid.

About hooklinks, hooks and tubing? 3. Id say start with the ready made hooklinks you get at angling stores, they usually made using the wide gape hook. try them and make up some 4. 600mm leadcore leaders and use inline leads, this is the simplest and easiest way to get into the swing of things. Leadcore can be a bit tricky, and a bit difficult to explain on a forum, but, you dont tie knots in it, you splice the loops/eyes.

So, I'm going to try and explain how you splice leadcore....

Cut a length of leadcore about 750mm long, then while holding the leadcore in your left hand, push the outer shield sothat the lead comes out, cut the lead about 70-80mm and pull the shield forward sothat it has no lead in it, now using a small splicing needle, open the lach on the needle and using the needle's hook,enter the side of the shield where the lead stops, and turn the needle towards the leadless end, push it up the shield about 15mm and exit the side of the shield. Heres the tricky part, hook the end of the leadless shield back on the needle's hook and lach over the lach.
Now wet the end and needle and shield with spit and pull the needle back as if you were going to extract it from the shield where you entered first.. this threads the leadless shield through itself creating a loop/eye. Do this slowly and try feeding the shield over the needle with the end attached, it takes a bit of fiddling, but it can be done. if the end comes off the needle, do the whole procedure over again, remember to trim the fraid end before hooking it to the needle.
Once you have the needle and end coming out of the shield, you pull it till you have a small eye, about 5-10mm, then cut the excess off and put a tension bar in the eye youve just made and pull the lead core and the cut end should just enter the shield, giving you a clean eye without any fraid strands.
Then turn the lead core around and do the same again, but make a slightly bigger eye, 10mm-12mm. this end you put the swivel on, simply by threading the eye through the swivel ring and pasing the other end of the leadcore through the leadcore eye and pulling tight.

Attach yor hooklink to the swivel.

Now you can pass the inline lead on the leadcore till it comes to the swivel, pull it till it clips into the lead.

The other end of the leadcore with the small eye gets tied to your main line using a grinner knot.

Geez! I hope that made sense...

Spod
Click to expand...

Spod, sorry man, my answers is not to crit but just to get christo on the right track. As per my previous reply - there is a differance to answer in the above 1-4:

1. Nopre - your knowledge as conventional angler is you best advantage. As a conventional angler you are able to attrack and fish better tempo. Your knowledge with dips and combinations of flavours is the utmost importance. Most people that have not competed in conventional angling do not know how to apply flavours and combionations. I.E conventional anglers will never put pink sweets and bloekom together - a specimen angler will NEVER use FX & Devilsfork (hope this makes it clear). Lasty on this as conventional angler you have the experience to handle tempo (at Bloemhof) @ about 1 fish every 5 minutes. Therefore you are always able to have 100% of the rods in the water 100% of the time.

2. Breaking strain depends on the dam. Bloemhof 18lb is good as you only fish at about 70 meters. the tempo is so hectic that you cannot waste time landing fish - therefore 18lb and get the fish to the side. Other dams you might need more distance - at Witbank you might hace to fish at 100m then 10lb is sufficient. At 140 meters you would need 7lb and hopre to hell a 10+kg does not pic up your bait - as this will slow you down.

3. As a competative carp angler you will only need the following regarding hooks and hooklinks:

  • Any hook similar to a diachi no 2. I use the grip fly hooks (scuds) 13471 no 6. Other hooks that are just as good are the vmc hunter #6, or the owner C-4 hooks #6 and if you have money to splash out the Fox ssb #6 wide gape. [/*]
  • My rigs (for competative angling) are made out of 20lb Florocarbon, loop at the one end and #12 clipswivel at the other. [/*]
  • I do not use any shrink tubing at all, only on the scud hook, but that is a given[/*]
  • This is how I tie the rig: Cut 40cm FC - tie the #12 swivel using the figure 8 knot (as you know) thread a large bead of about 5mm (dark). tie a loop at the other end - big enough for your entire rig to fit through (use a granny knot)[/*]
  • Now you can thread any type lead onto the rig.[/*]
  • The hooklinks are 3 types: FC only with braid hair, FC/Braid combi with braid hair or coated braid only. I use the coated braid a lot at Bloemhof and the FC at leagues[/*]
  • The FC hooklink is 14lb[/*]
  • The coated braid is 25lb (Sufex Camo Skin) - DO NOT USE ANY OTHER COATED braid as the camo braid is more supple if stipped.
[/*]
Thats it - nothing fancy.

4. Leadcore I will only use in a league and not in the SA's at Bloemhof.
 
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Guest

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[color=#006600]momo330[/color] wrote:
jaques wouldnt you also use those items even if you are doing a session on your own?
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If the water permits, If I soacial and target BFC's at say Donaldson or DD I would use a boat and most often use a boat/watercraft when doing this. So you tend to use those items, but not nearly as extensive as you would iun competative environment. Example: I you leave a baiting spoon at home when trgeting your specific dam as a specimen angler it is by no means the end if you left your speen at home - If you leave it when you are at a competative event - you might as well pack up and go home. Remember I did not say it is way different than specimen angling - all I meant was the emphises are just more on things that normally would not bother a specimen angler
 
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Guest

Guest
.. ok read through all the posts and all are good advice amd replay's. So herewith what I concider a competative carp anglers equipment (I will without a doubt repeat what was said above)
- Rods (at least 4)max 13ft
- Reels (4)- must be baitrunner
- Pod - any
- Decent Spod rod - you need at least 4.5lb testcurver rod
- Decent Spod rocket - Korda/Fox
- Decent Kettie - Fox
- Unhooking Mat - minimum 1meterx50mmx1cm (3 per peg)
- Knotless Landing net - DO NOT GET USE A TRIANGLE specimen net
- Cheap alarms - the sensation alarms are a good option here (get better quality if you do specimen). During the day (or when we do not sleep) our alrams are off.
- Swingers work - but policemen work better. They detect the bite faster and if it is night you know where your line is when playing a fish in your 10x10 camp.
- Baiting spoon - Gardner
- IMPORTANT - get a decent handle for the baiting spoon - oom johan louwies sels them for about R450. Any other handle is a waste
- Boilie pype - not those that you buy but one you make up yourself - it must be able to throw a 40mm baitball. Get a very light PVC type pype - cut it at 800mm and then do a incline cut of aboput 200mm. Block the bottom end.

I al;ready spoke about the line, hooks and hooklinks etc. If I forgot someting I will post as it comes to mind..... o ja !! Shade ! Shade !! Shade
 
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Guest

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Here are my competative rig wallets:

Pic 1 - all FC

pic 2 - some FC + mostly Coated braid links
 

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Spod

Senior Member
Hey Jacques, you the right man for this job lol. to be honest, I misread the thread, thought Christodeb wanted to do specimen angling... thanx for coming to the rescue and reguiding him back to the correct line of thought. I know he's in good hands if you here, so im gonna keep quiet as Im not into competitive carp angling.....lol!
 
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Guest

Guest
Spot on there Christo - a LOT can be learnt from the true specimen anglers
 
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