Carp Rigs - Inline vs Safety vs Running

[Guest]

Which of these carp rigs are best suited for our waters? I use the Helicopter for long range casting but most of the time I use my kanoe or a baitboat.

A lot of guys use the Inline and safety but after chatting to Gilbert and other they prefer the running rig (bolt lead 85gr).

Makes sence to me but wanted to know if anybody else have and idea?

 

[Guest]

Ok I'll continue with this thread and post my findings as I go along.

Found out this last week that the Helicpter rig (appart from being a long distance casting rig) is also a good rig when the dam beds are silt laden.

I'll try and put pic's up explaining the helicopter rig - if anybody is interested

 

[Land Locked]

Jacques, by all means. Please share the information.

 

[Guest]

Ok,

I tried taking the pic's of a step by step guide but it came out kuk. So before some user blame me for copy and pasting from other sites I would like to mention: A Helicopter rig = a Helicopter rig and with the permision of the Carp Anglers Group I will use their pictures and add the step discriptions:

OK a bit more advanced and fiddley involving all manner of small rubber objects ( so definitley Euro ) is the Helicopter Rig. So called because the leader is attached to a swivel on the mainline causing the leader to rotate about the line on casting like helicopter blades.

Why bother? Well it's a good long range, anti-tangle set up. Again I'm not going to debate the merits and variations ( as usual there are slightly different ways to skin this cat ), rather illustrate how it's tied and leave the debate for another time.

This rig can be bought in ready to assemble kits (Local SA shops is the BFA version)and I would recommend these as they're usualy safer. However I don't think its so bizarre and specialised that it can't be made without the custom made components either.

The kit I'm using here is by Korda. Here are the components.

1. Rig tubing
2. Lead weight
3. Buffer bead
4. Rubber bead
5. Swivel bead ( a wide bore swivel will do the job as well )
6. Tail rubber
7. Leader ( stiff leaders work best - I've used coated braid here ) Apologies - the leader shouldn't have a swivel on it

Step 1

Thread your mainline through the tubing and push a tight fitting rubber bead over the tubing.

Step 2

Thread the tail rubber onto your leader and tie the leader to the swivel bead.

Step 3

Push the tail rubber onto the swivel bead and slide the swivel bead onto the tubing. Then thread your buffer bead onto the tubing.

Step 4

Tie the lead weight to the mainline and slide everything nice and tightly together. Job done

 

[Little Green Fish]

Jacques

We used to use the older versions of this with the two hook setup where the swivel bead was either a normal barrel or a three way swivel on the top with the weight sliding on s short piece of leader and the bottom hook again attached to a swivel.  When used in slit laden dams we just extended the lengths of line between the swivels and the hooks.

Now one thing i've noticed is that you make reference to safety, what safety are you refering to, casting, line breakage on hookups, etc.  Reason for me asking is that we never once had any safety problems ito casting and so forth on the older "helicopter" rigs, just wondering?

:f1shy

 

[Guest]

Carp Safety.

The rig you refering to is eithr the old Rietvlei (fixed or sliding) with 2 hooks - The specimen facet of carp angling only use 1 hook and everything is about the safety of the fish seeing that you are targeting big carp. For the normal run of the mil (non-specimen carp) the rietvlei is still used extensively - and I still use it during the konventional league/provincail trails.

 

[Little Green Fish]

Ok now I understand, hence the single hook setup.

thanx for the info, BTW, when last have you been to the old N-transvaal grounds at roodeplaat, reason for me asking is the waterlevel, it's realy getting very bad now, it's long past rediculous.  also heve you been able to get info on the mamelodi developments that is alledged to be pumping out all the water causing this huge drop in the waterlevel, worst I've seen in 18yrs?

:f1shy

 

[Guest]

Last I was there was begining Sept -- and yes dropping rapidly - Hengelaars Vriend will prob be out of business soon.

I think there was a metnion that water pumping was on a halt - but how true this is I do not know

 

[Little Green Fish]

there's almost no water left in the river channel when you enter the old NTvl grounds, the channel in front of Hengelaarsvriend completely dried up right past them towards the northern side their lefthand side, saw kids walking in between the green weeds that's started to grow that froms an almost complete carpet from Ntvl grounds to hengelaars..... It's very very sad to see this, and agian DWAF I suppose says all is okay if they're saying anything at all?

:f1shy

 

[Land Locked]

Jacques, that chunk of information earns you some manna.

Thanks sir

 

[Damien]

I prefere using the Bolt rig. I have evry confidence in it as i have caught most my carp using this method. Also with it having the Korder saftey clip it ensures that the carp isnt left trailing with the weight in tow(that is if you get snapped!!!). It is a self hooking rig so you dond need a massive strike as the Carp baisicly hooks its self.

 

[Guest]

Hi Damien,

Glad to see someone fishing the same facet as myself. I would be great if we could keep on swopping ideas.

Just with regards to the rigs - I might be wrong (and pleae help me if I am) but are not all the secimen rigs bolt rigs ?

Just that they have different applications - this is how I unserstand it:
1) Safety Bolt rig (The one you suggested)
2) Inline Bolt Rig
3) Helicopter Bolt Rig (The one illustrated above)

and then the new one we testing in a competative environment:
4) Running Bolt rig

I find that the Safety Bolt rig is best used when fishing long range 300m plus and very difficult to cast - as you have the danger of breaking the clip in the cast and loosing your lead.

The inline I use the most in the competative environment and is very easy to build.

The helicopter is my casting rig as well as an answer to the silt you find in our dams.

What is your take on it?

 

[Land Locked]

Guys I know very little about catching carp.(I would use dynamite) But here's a link to a great carp recipe.
http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=1894&forum_id=14

 

[Guest]

Whahaha

Absolutly ! Carp = Crap (very close) hehehe

 

[Damien]

The bolt rig i use with the korda safty clip also the swivel fixed inside trhe clip so its not free running there for the fish basicly hooks its self. I also use long shank nailer hooks i have evry confidence in them they are my choice evry time.

 

[Guest]

I'll load how I do the Safety clip bolt rig - pretty much the same as yours. I just use the Fox clip.

Like I said the rig I use the most si the Inline Bolt Rig. This is how I make it:

Starting with one of the most widely used set-ups, the Bolt Rig.

The principle is simple ( see below. )

In Step 1, the fish picks up your hookbait on a slack leader, taking with it the hook..

In Step 2, as the carp moves away the leader tightens and the weight of the lead comes into play. The carp 'bolts' ( hence the name ) and the weight of the lead helps pull the hook home. As you quite rightly explained Damien

Right, here's how to construct a simple in-line bolt rig.

First you need your components.

OK this is what I'm using here ( ps this just my own personal preferences - obviously there are other makes and types etc. ) My rig here consists of 8" Kryston Snakebite leader with a size 8 Fox Uni-swivel to a size 8 CarpRus Longshank hook tied with a hair rig. 3oz Fox inline lead, tail rubber and 12" sink tubing ( your tubing must always be longer than your leader, about 1.5 times the length is ideal. )

Step 1: Thread your mainline through the tubing and then thread on the tail rubber, which must slip over the end of the tubing.

Step 2: Thread on your weight, attaching it to the tail rubber.

Step 3: Take your leader swivel and push it into the rubber or plastic housing. This is an essential move, since this housing creates the 'semi - fixed rig' set-up essential to a bolt rig. IT MUST NOT be jammed in too tightly so that if the line breaks or the lead gets snagged up the swivel can be pulled free of the lead. At the same time if the swivel can come free too easily when the carp picks up the hookbait the bolt rig effect is lost as the weight of the lead will not come into play.

Step 4: Push the housing into the lead weight and there you have it.

Just want to re-iterate the 'semi - fixed rig' thing. The important thing here is that the weight is fixed to the leader so the weight helps drive the hook home. But it is important that the swivel can come free under pressure. If, for example, a mainline break occurs it is important that the leader can come free of the weight so that it is not going to have to drag around a length of line attached to a lead weight. This will often eventualy kill the fish, why such fixed rigs ( for example, tying the lead weight to a mainline ) are known as 'death rigs'. Its important to get a balance whereby the swivel is fixed enough to the weight to allow the 'bolt rig' efect and loose enough to pull free in an emergency.

Next ( when time allows ) I'll show you a variant of the bolt rig using a 'safety clip' setup.