Acecraft 16 make over

Foxstrike

Member
Cut out the new wood and it fitted perfectly. I did not have anything to make a stensil so i just measured everything including the angles etc.
 

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Foxstrike

Member
I used 2 x 18mm and a 9mm marine ply. Gives me 45mm plus the thickness of the fibreglass. The glue i used is Brumer.i checked and it is recommended for boats and yachts etc as its completely waterproof. Used a brush to even out the glue
 

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Foxstrike

Member
Transom came out solid, the glue actually broke pieces of cement from my garage floor. I left the new transom so that it can cure for the next 2 days that i am working dayshift. Fixed up holes on the boat transom a bit and made 1 stringer today. The method i used worked great. Take a plank or straight edge and sot it across the boat where you want the stringer. Make marks every 100mm and also on the piece of wood for the stringer...take measurements on each of the 100mm lines to the hull...when done just connect the dots and cut
Note i am only doing half of the the deck now..The other half is still supporting the hull shape.
 

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Foxstrike

Member
Came home from a 12hour shift and just had to do some work on the transom. Sanded down the glue on the edges. Brushed on 1 layer of resin mixed with 30% acetone. The acetone helps thin out the resin so that its absorbed deep into the wood. Will do 1 layer each side and then a layer of clean resin
 

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Foxstrike

Member
I put in 1 layer of fibre matt on the inside. There are so many holes that i wanted to make sure everything is sealed off and solid
 

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Foxstrike

Member
This roller is a must have to ensure an even surface and to roll out all the air bubbles
 

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Foxstrike

Member
Today i put the transom in place..i used poly putty and a tile cement trofel thingy...the putty will ensure a sturdy fit between the wood and transom so that there are bo holow parts...i strapped it in so that the putty is spread and clamped out
 

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Foxstrike

Member
Progress has been slow..if you are wondering about replacing your transom..it takes no less then a week to do it properly.still have some finishing touches to do and then moving on to the stringers and bulkheads. Ps: i bought white resin as it was for a good price
 

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Foxstrike

Member
Note i only used the white resin on the wood and had transparent resin for securing the transom to the sides and floor. I also noted that the motor was mounted 50mm too low. I measured the cavitation plate to the transom bracket and lifted the transom a bit
 

willem wikkel spies

Moderator
Staff member
nice

dinge begin nou bymekaar kom.

net n paar aspekte:

1. n lag veselglas aan die binne kant, om veilig te wees sal nie skade aan doen nie.
twee lae ook nie, maar jy sal die hull moet afskuur en grof kry sodat die nuwe lae lekker vas kan klou.

2. die ou metode van drukking op die lae hout werk, ek sou net nie gom gebruik het nie.
n lag resin, dalk n lag veselglas en weer n lag resin tussen die planke ply wood.
wat lekker is van dit, is dat die lag resin ook die hout aan daai kant seel.
so sou daar water op n lag intrek, dit dalk nie by die ander lag sou uitkom nie.

3. daar is niks fout met jou hande werk nie.
dit is wel nie n lekker job nie...been there...lol

4. behalwe vir engine mounting gate...moet nie weer gate boor nie. nie eens vir n tranducer nie.
op my boot, het ek a staal bracket wat dieselfde engine boud gebruik waarop my transducer is.

5. as jy wel n transducer op n ander manier vas wil sit...dat merk n blokkie hout op transom uit waar jy hom wil he.
skuur die area n bietjie grof.
dan n dun lagie resin, en n veselglas lagie en weer n lagie resin, dan jou blokkie hout vasgedruk.
as daai ding plak, plak hy behoorlik en hoef jy nie te worry nie.
my blokkie hout "meranti" het ek eers geseel met resin, orals to geplak.

wat gaan jie die keer insit vir buoyancy?
sondor foam?
 
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