[size=3][font="Times New Roman"] To ser

[Trophy]

 

To service the reels I use the following.[/b]

 

Empty pill box to rinse and clean bearings

Cal’s Grease (Contact Whaler)

Sure Catch Red Jelly Grease

Sure Catch Reel oil

Nifty Oil on the bearings

Benzine to clean the parts

Paint brushes to clean up all the parts and casings

Toothbrush to apply grease

#10 Socket to remove the anti-reverse bearing

Small screwdrivers, filed to a needle point to remove bearings

Screwdrivers, Phillips and Flat

Shimano tool to remove handle nut

Long nose piler

Masking tape to protect line on spool

 

 

The TOR 20, 30 are for the most part exactly the same reel, with the TOR 20 just being a narrower spool than the 30. You can interchange all the working parts without any problem.

 

My TOR 30’s are 10 years old so please excuse all the bumps and scratches.

Saying that these reels have served me well over the years and the only parts that I have replaced are the following:

 

Anti-reverse Dog Pawl (Every three years or so)

Main Drive Shaft (After 9 years)

 

 

I also like to start on the bearing side casing as it keeps everything clean and neat while working with the casting bearings. Once you get to the drag washers you generally make quite a mess cleaning off all the old dirt and debris.

 

 

Removing the casing gives you access to remove the spool, ratchet pin and control and the spool bearing.

 

 

Spool removed and taped with masking tape to stop line from unravelling and getting dirty with grease, oil and benzene.

 

 

The TOR reels are fitted with a two part side casing which can easily be separated by prying a flat screw driver into the seam and then simply twisting the head of the screw driver. 

 

 

This is often a place most anglers would never think to clean, but as you can see there is considerable damp, dirt and salt build up between the sections.

 

 

To remove the bearing you must first remove the retainer clip using a small flat or pointed screwdriver.

 

 

Once the retainer is removed you can take out the bearing and the bearing bushing. I like to remove the bearing cups on all my spool bearings. This makes for easy cleaning and inspection. Both my TOR 30 have run the same spool bearings for 10 years!

 

 

To remove the ratchet, start off by simply unclipping the spring.

 

 

Remove the top circlip and small spacer washer beneath this.

 

 

Unscrew the retainer.

 

 

Remove the barrel spacer.

 

 

Remove the bottom circlip and small spacer washer beneath this.

 

 

Remove the thumb toggle knob.

 

 

Remove the retainer and washer to reveal the ratchet spring.

 

 

 

Remove by simply compressing the spring.

 

 

Your entire side casing is now dismantled and ready for cleaning.

 

 

Remove all the old grease, trapped sand and salt from front and back of casing with a paint brush and benzene.

 

 

 

Re-install the ratchet spring making sure that the plastic head fits nicely back into the slots on either side of its housing.

 

 

Grease it up nicely.

 

 

Replace the retainer and screws.

 

 

 

Replace the bottom small spacer washer and circlip.

 

 

Replace the barrel spacer.

 

 

Replace the top small spacer washer and circlip

 

 

Replace the ratchet, ratchet spring and apply some grease.

 

 

 

 

I  like to rinse off my bearings in a pill box and benzene. After cleaning I heat the bearing and soak it in Prolong oil over night before fitting them back in the reels.

 

 

Shake up the pill bottle and watch the debris dissolve out the bearing.

 

 

Replace the bottom bearing spacer with a good amount of grease.

 

 

Replace the spool bearing into the casing.

 

 

Replace the bearing retainer to lock the bearing into the casing.

 

 

Use the toothbrush and applky a healthy layer of grease to the casing. This grease will trap all the sand and dirt and also prevent any salt corrosion between services.

 

 

Apply a drop of Reel oil onto the bearing.

 

 

Apply a few drops of Nifty Oil to the bearing.

 

 

On the spool shaft to remove the front bearing you will have to remove the shaft pin. You can use a small screwdriver to gently tap the pin free.

 

 

Remove the bearing and give the same treatment as with the other spool bearing.

 

 

The assembly / re-assembly in order

 

Again a drop of reel oil onto the bearing.

 

 

Again a few drops of Nifty Oil onto the bearing.

 

 

Replace the pin and ensure that you place it exactly even to ensure that this will fit into the pinion gear when you re-assemble the reel.

 

 

Apply a layer of grease to the outer cover of the casing to prevent water and salt corrosion.

 

 

Now you can replace the side casing of the reel if you wanted to only service the bearings. If you wanted to do a complete service then leave it off and tackle the gear casing side.

 

 

Some grease on the casing screws help with corrosion and ensure that they will not jam up and strip when next servicing you reel.

 

 

Four casing screws ready to be tightened up.

 

 

Right so we have decided to service the gears, drag washers and gear casing.

Start by removing the handle locking screw. Be careful not to strip this screw head. If tight rather use a flat head screw driver.

 

 

Remove the retainer.

 

 

Use the Shimano toolor the correct sized spanner to remove the handle nut.

 

 

Remove the handle. There is a small spacer washer that normally sticks to the underside of the handle. Don’t loose this when you put the handle down.

 

Unscrew the star drag and be careful not to loose the VERY small star drag ratchet pin which tends to shoot out. Cup your hand around the star drag and wait for it to pop out.

 

 

Remove the star drag washer, compression washers (2), bearing washer and plastic bearing washer. Take note of the order.

 

 

Remove the tension adjustment thumb knob.

 

 

Remove the 8 screws. 4 + 2 + 2

 

 

Remove the gear casing.

 

 

Remove the water drain plug as this also has a tendency to fall out and get lost.

 

 

On the casing you will see the drag stack bearing.

 

 

Remove the bearing.

 

 

Remove the roller clutch tube from inside the anti-reverse bearing.

 

 

From where the drag stack bearing was you want to place the socket into the space to remove the anti-reverse bearing.

 

 

Apply even force onto the socket and pop the anti-reverse bearing out.

 

 

These are all the parts stripped from your gear casing.

 

 

Wash all the parts and casing in benzine.

 

 

From the drive gear lift the entire drag stack off the drive shaft. Do not pull up from the anti-reverse ratchet as this will damage the claspers on your dog pawl.

 

 

Remove the yoke springs.

 

 

Remove the yoke and pinion gear.

 

 

Remove the yoke plate

 

 

Remove the dog pawl retainer screws.

 

 

Remove the dog pawl retainer.

 

 

I made this reel a TOR that clicks by fashioning my own spring coil.

http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=24209&forum_id=62

 

 

Now remove the anti-reverse ratchet with the dog pawl and claspers intact.

 

 

To remove the drive shaft you will need to look inside the frame to find where the retaining circlip is.

 

 

Using a small flat screwdriver remove the circlip.

 

The drive shaft can now be lifted from the frame. You will see that my reel already has the bush to bearing conversion done. Whaler has done a great tutorial on how to do this.

http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=42017&forum_id=72

 

 

Remove the drive shaft bearing.

 

 

The frame and all its parts now stripped.

 

 

Wash the frame and all the parts in benzene.

 

 

Remember to remove this plastic spacer washer.

 

 

This is a good time to inspect the condition of the anti-reverse dog pawl. This one is going to need replacing soon.

 

 

Give the frame a good clean of debris, water and salt buildup.

 

 

Reel now totally stripped leaving only the drag stack to be serviced.

 

 

Drag stack sequence, dirty full of water, debris and salt.

 

 

Wash down all the brass and s/steel washers in benzene.

 

 

Clean all the old grease off in benzene.

 

 

Once cleaned allow the washers to dry completely before greasing them again.

 

 

Drag washers clean, dry and in sequence.

 

 

Using Cal’s grease apply a liberal layer onto each washer. Take careful note of the sequence that they go back into the stack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The completed stack ready to go back onto the drive shaft.

 

 

Drive shaft replacement sequence.

 

 

Place the bearing back into the frame use a good amount of grease on this area.

 

 

Put some reel oil onto the bearing.

 

 

Replace the plastic spacer washer.

 

 

Insert the drive shaft into the frame.

 

 

Replace the retaining circlip onto the driveshaft inside the frame.

 

 

Apply  good amount of grease over this area to protect from salt build up and corrosion.

 

 

Replace the ani-reverse ratchet and dog pawl intact.

 

 

Replace the ‘TOR that clicks’ spring.

 

 

Only add oil to the dog pawl shaft as grease tends to hamper its function.

 

 

Replace the dog pawl retainer and screws. DO NOT over tighten these screws.

 

 

Using the toothbrush apply a healthy layer of grease to the frame to prevent water and salt corrosion and to trap sand.

 

 

Grease up the yoke plate and re-install.

 

 

Grease and replace the yoke and pinion gear intact.

 

 

Grease and replace the yoke springs.

 

 

All that left now is the replacement of the drag stack.

 

 

Using Cal’s grease (ex Whaler) grease the bottom drag washer and place ontop of the anti-reverse ratchet.

 

 

Gently drop the drag stack over the drive shaft. You will need to line this up to ensure that the shape of the shaft and washers match up.

 

 

Use your finger to apply a healthy amount of grease to the teeth of the main gear.

 

 

About right!

 

 

O not grease or over oil the anti-reverse bearing.

 

 

Pop the anti-reverse bearing back into the gear casing.

 

 

Using the toothbrush apply a layer of grease to the casing to prevent water and salt corrosion and to trap sand.

 

 

Replace the drain into the casing and add a dollop of grease.

 

 

Replace the anti-reverse tube and ENSURE that the two prongs slot into the slots on the washer.

 

 

Replace the gear casing and again add some grease to the screws. This prevents corrosion and helps loosen the screws after a service interval.

 

 

Tighten down the 8 screws (4 + 2 + 2)

 

 

Replace the drag stack bearing and add a drop of oil.

 

 

Repalce the plastic bearing seal.

 

 

Replace the steel bearing washer.

 

 

Replace the bearing washers (2) IN A COMPRESSION SEQUENCE *()*

 

 

Replace the star drag washer.

 

 

To safely retain the star drag ratchet pin use a toothpick down the centre of the drive shaft to secure it in place. Then slip the star drag over the tooth pick onto the thread and tighten.

 

 

Replace the spool tension thumb knob after putting a blob of grease in the cap and a drop of oil on the shaft.

 

 

Repalce the handle spacer washer…the one you nearly lost!

 

 

Fit the handle.

 

 

Fit and tighten the handle nut, BUT DO NOT over tighten. Trust the retainer to ensure that this nut will never loosen. Tighten the retainer screw, again do not over tighten.

 

 

Your service is complete…

 

Tight Lines,

 

Trophy (aka Brett Harris)