shimano calcutta 250A rebuild

alantani

Senior Member
when i first started salmon fishing, i started with a penn 113h trolling 2.5 pound lead on a sinker release.  when i started fishing with jacky douglas on the "wacky jacky," we were mooching.  the ultimate mooching reel at that time was considered to be the shimano calcutta 250.  it was a great reel then, it is still a great reel now. 

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here's a link to the schematic.

http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/shimano/Shimano_ct250.pdf

it's simple to open up this reel.  just back out the two right side plate bolts (key #1698). 

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the reel breaks down easily into three pieces, the frame assembly, the spool and the right side plate assembly.

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put a drop of lube in left spool bearing (key #194).  this bearing measures 3x10x4.  if it needs replacing, the bearing retainer (key #32) is easily removed. 

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clean up the spool shaft a little.

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let's put the spool assembly back into the frame and set it aside.

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now for the right side plate assembly.

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remove the handle nut plate screw (key #795) and handle nut plate (key #1692).

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remove the handle nut (key #797).

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remove the handle (key #1716) and friction washer (key #799).

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remove the star drag (key #1573).

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remove the star drag spacer (key #1289)

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remove the drag spring washers (key # 15).

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remove the two right side plate screws (key #191).

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remove the right side plate assembly (key #1574).  note that the right side plate bolts (key # 1698) stay with the right side plate. 

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the right side plate bearing (key #194) is rusted and will have to be replaced.

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remove the cast control cap (key #1209) and cast control spacer (key #9).

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this bearing also measures 3x10x4.

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install the new bearing (key #194), cast control cap (key #1209) and spacer (key #9).

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the "anti-reverse" roller clutch bearing (key #1207) works fine.  let's soak it with corrosion x and then clean it out with an old rag.  pull the rag through and then twist both clockwise and counter-clockwise. 

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let's pull the main gear. 

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we're going to upgrade with drag system to carbontex. 

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here are all the parts, cleaned up and in line.  on top is the set plate assembly (key #1221).  the middle row shows (left to right) the roller clutch inner tube (key #1206), the key washer (key #1211), the drag washer C (key #1212), the drive gear (key #1213), and drag washer A (key #1214).  the lower row shows our new carbontex drag washers.

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take a quick look and make sure the anti-reverse ratchet (key #1215) is properly oriented and seated.

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slap a generous coat of cal's grease on carbontex drag washers.

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install smaller carbontex drag washer.

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install the drive gear (key #1213).

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install the larger carbontex drag washer.

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install the key washer (key #1211).

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install the roller clutch inner tube (key #1206).

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install the right side plate assembly (key #1574).

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install the two right side plate screws (key #191).

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install the two drag spring washers (key #15) in a "()" configuration.

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install the star drag spacer (key #1289) gray side up.

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install the star drag (key #1573) and turn it down until it clears the shoulders of the drive shaft (key #1299).

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install the friction washer (key #799).

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install the handle assembly (key #1716).

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install the handle nut (key #797).

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install the handle nut plate (key #1692).

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install the handle nut plate screw (key #795).

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add a small amount of grease to the screw holes in the frame.

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lube the spool shaft and right spool bushing.

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find the clutch plate (key #1233).  this is the "in gear" postion.

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push the clutch plate down to the "free" position.

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the clutch bar (key #1316) is now in the "free" position.

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push it to the "in gear" position.

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back off the cast control cap (key #1209) a couple of turns.

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the right side plate assembly (key #1574) should now seat easily.

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gently tighten down the pair right side plate bolts (key #1698) until the bolts seat, then give it another half turn so that it is snug.  tighten these down too much and the heads will snap right off.  been there.......

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check the freespool.

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lube the worm shaft (key #1714).  this would also be a good time to remove the pawl cap (key #1239) and lube the line guide pawl (key #42)

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and done!

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Marshie

Senior Member
Awesome post... thanks for sharing! 

does anyone perhaps know where I can get a set carbontex washers for a Calcutta 200TE and 250 in South Africa?
 

Nepptune

Sealiner
Marshie - Try PM Whaler on here, or smoothdrag@24.com

Alternatively, get hold of Dawn at Smooth drag directly, www.smoothdrag.com and she'll ship them to ya.... she is amazing to deal with, shipping is cheap and fairly quick.... order a couple sets for all your reels and save on shipping...
I just ordered 6 sets of C-Tex and Cal's Drag plates and Cal's grease for my Ocea Jiggers ( now pushing 22 kilos!! :) ) and they arrived quickly and with minimal cost.

If you do order, please let me know, I'd like to rebuild my 400 too, and replace the washers with Carbontex.....
 

TOE 007

Sealiner
i have problems with my Shimano Citica , the old model , the thumb bar does not want to engage , any advice ?

i have opened it up a couple of times , the anti reverse i reckon is the problem , nobody can help me in cape town .
 

alantani

Senior Member
here is the schematic for the latest model citica.

http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Low_Profile/09CI200E_v1_m56577569830654409.pdf

the clutch  bar (key #3930) pushes down on the clutch plate (key #3935).  as the clutch plate rotates, it turns the clutch cam (key #3934) and it raises the yoke (key #3495) and the pinion gear (key #3953) as a unit.  when the pinion gear is raised, it disengages from the spool and the reel is now in freespool. 

no, the clutch bar will not depress, correct?  without a complete tear down on the reel, you might possibly be able to free up that mechanism with a good quality penetrating fluid applied liberally to the clutch bar and pinion gear.  to get to both, simply pull the spool out and apply the penetrating oil from the inside. 

the best product i can think of is xtreme reel +.  it is available in the united states, but probably not in south africa.  a similar "teflon in freon" lubricant might work as well.  i am finding that these products work better than petroleum based products.  can you please keep me posted?  thanks!  alan

 

 

 
 
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