Rig types
- Thread starter ajayrajh
- Start date
The Caroline Rig!
D. Moore
Return
[align=left]The Carolina Rig is probably the system that most anglers fall back on to when fishing gets really tough, but it should never be confined to the role of a backup lure only - its also used to locate fish and locate them fast.[/align]
[align=left]
Putting the Carolina together is a fairly simple task. Use a heavy egg sinker, normally between 1/2 and 1 oz which you slide onto the line first and then place a bead or two onto the line before tying on a swivel. Tie a leader of between one and two feet in length onto the swivel and then finally tie on the hook. Choose the plastic that you want to fish with, hook it up and you're in business. See the accompanying picture.[/align]
[align=left]Now let's have a closer look at the components that make up the rig. Normally an egg-shaped sinker is used but a number of anglers lately have tended to move towards a teardrop shaped sinker which has less tendency to get stuck between rocks while being dragging along the bottom. The size of the sinker to be used depends on the depth you are fishing, wind strength, lure size and how quickly you want the lure to get to the bottom. While most anglers use lead sinkers, brass is also frequently used in order to generate more sound as it clicks against the beads. When fishing in clear water with brass sinkers, bass will tend to hit the sinker rather than the lure causing the angler to strike before fish has taken the lure. To overcome this problem, use a black marker to colour the sinker to remove the flash. New innovations onto the market include the Snake Weight and the Lindy No-Snagg Slip Sinkers. These weights comprise a number of small balls that are sown into a nylon tube making the weight virtually snag-free. [/align]
[align=left]The beads have a twofold purpose: firstly as an attractant to the bass by providing a clicking sound as the sinker hits against them, and secondly to prevent the knot at the swivel from being frayed by the sinker hitting against it. Beads can either be made out of glass or plastic with the glass giving better sound as the sinker strikes it and the plastic providing better protection for the knot. So, instead of using two glass beads, consider using a glass bead close to the sinker and a plastic one next to the swivel. While the colour of the bead really doesn't make much difference in dirty and stained water, opt for black or any dark colour in clear water to prevent bass from striking the beads as they would do in the case of brass sinkers. Red is a favourite bead colour used by many anglers but it should make no difference as to what colour bead is used as long as the fundamental principle of ensuring that the focus of the fish is on the lure rather than what comes before it.[/align]
[align=left]The swivel doesn't have to be of a high quality as the purpose is more as a stopper for the sinker and beads rather than that of preventing line twist. Once again, opt for black swivels in clear water to prevent flash, while any colour will work fine in dingy and dirty water. Don't waste your money on expensive swivels.[/align]
[align=left]Most anglers use a 17-20lb test line on their reels and down size to a 12-15lb leader. The clearer the water, the lighter the line you will want to use. In very clear water you should consider using camo line as this breaks the line with the different colours that are used at different intervals. Using a lighter leader than the line on the reel means that should you get hung up on the bottom (and you will!), you can break off the leader without losing the sinker, beads and swivel. Leader selection will also depend on the type of bottom that you are fishing. Where the surface is very rocky you may want a heavier line as it will fray when being dragged over the rocks.[/align]
[align=left]Hook selection depends once again on the lure to be used and the presentation that you want to achieve. For larger, bulkier lures use a wide-gap hook, while for plastics with a lower profile a lighter hook will help the bait to float above the bottom. If weight is not a factor, select the wide-gap hook as it prevents the plastic from slipping down the hook and forming a ball in front of the hook. G-lock wide-gap hooks have a more pronounced bend at the shoulder and hold the plastic in place a lot better.[/align]
[align=left]This should get you well on the way to fishing the Carolina Rig.[/align]
D. Moore
Return
[align=left]The Carolina Rig is probably the system that most anglers fall back on to when fishing gets really tough, but it should never be confined to the role of a backup lure only - its also used to locate fish and locate them fast.[/align]
[align=left]
[align=left]Now let's have a closer look at the components that make up the rig. Normally an egg-shaped sinker is used but a number of anglers lately have tended to move towards a teardrop shaped sinker which has less tendency to get stuck between rocks while being dragging along the bottom. The size of the sinker to be used depends on the depth you are fishing, wind strength, lure size and how quickly you want the lure to get to the bottom. While most anglers use lead sinkers, brass is also frequently used in order to generate more sound as it clicks against the beads. When fishing in clear water with brass sinkers, bass will tend to hit the sinker rather than the lure causing the angler to strike before fish has taken the lure. To overcome this problem, use a black marker to colour the sinker to remove the flash. New innovations onto the market include the Snake Weight and the Lindy No-Snagg Slip Sinkers. These weights comprise a number of small balls that are sown into a nylon tube making the weight virtually snag-free. [/align]
[align=left]The beads have a twofold purpose: firstly as an attractant to the bass by providing a clicking sound as the sinker hits against them, and secondly to prevent the knot at the swivel from being frayed by the sinker hitting against it. Beads can either be made out of glass or plastic with the glass giving better sound as the sinker strikes it and the plastic providing better protection for the knot. So, instead of using two glass beads, consider using a glass bead close to the sinker and a plastic one next to the swivel. While the colour of the bead really doesn't make much difference in dirty and stained water, opt for black or any dark colour in clear water to prevent bass from striking the beads as they would do in the case of brass sinkers. Red is a favourite bead colour used by many anglers but it should make no difference as to what colour bead is used as long as the fundamental principle of ensuring that the focus of the fish is on the lure rather than what comes before it.[/align]
[align=left]The swivel doesn't have to be of a high quality as the purpose is more as a stopper for the sinker and beads rather than that of preventing line twist. Once again, opt for black swivels in clear water to prevent flash, while any colour will work fine in dingy and dirty water. Don't waste your money on expensive swivels.[/align]
[align=left]Most anglers use a 17-20lb test line on their reels and down size to a 12-15lb leader. The clearer the water, the lighter the line you will want to use. In very clear water you should consider using camo line as this breaks the line with the different colours that are used at different intervals. Using a lighter leader than the line on the reel means that should you get hung up on the bottom (and you will!), you can break off the leader without losing the sinker, beads and swivel. Leader selection will also depend on the type of bottom that you are fishing. Where the surface is very rocky you may want a heavier line as it will fray when being dragged over the rocks.[/align]
[align=left]Hook selection depends once again on the lure to be used and the presentation that you want to achieve. For larger, bulkier lures use a wide-gap hook, while for plastics with a lower profile a lighter hook will help the bait to float above the bottom. If weight is not a factor, select the wide-gap hook as it prevents the plastic from slipping down the hook and forming a ball in front of the hook. G-lock wide-gap hooks have a more pronounced bend at the shoulder and hold the plastic in place a lot better.[/align]
[align=left]This should get you well on the way to fishing the Carolina Rig.[/align]
The Texas Rig
The Angler's Primary School
Return
[align=left]
More fish are caught, more tournaments are won and more trophy sized fish are landed using a plastic worm than any other lure. That's a fact. It also a fact that most anglers start off with the Texas Rig in their introduction to bass angling. The tools are simple, a hook, plastic worm / lizard, a bullet sinker and a toothpick. (And the paperclip? We'll come back to that a little later.)
Slide the bullet sinker on to the line with the point first and then tie on the hook. Rig your worm onto the hook and then take the toothpick and push this into the sinker hole from the back. Break off the toothpick and you are left with a piece that holds the sinker firmly into place. Voila! There's your rig and you're ready to fish.
The advantage of fishing a Texas Rig is apparent when fishing brush and other structure. The sinker is kept close to the head and it forms one unit. This means that there is little chance of the sinker hanging over a branch on the one side while the worm and line wraps itself around the branch from the other side. The worm and sinker work their way through the cover together and make for a very sensitive rig to fish. In murky water, try fishing the Texas Rig with fusion line such are Berkley Fireline or Spiderwire. You will able to feel the worm work its way through the cover, let it drop into the holes and snap the rod back on the first touch of a bass.[/align]
[align=left]Right - the paperclip. Once you've finished fishing for the day and you take your terminal tackle apart, there is always the little bit of toothpick that stays behind. Push the paperclip through the sinker from the pointed end and it will push the bit of toothpick out. If you are politically incorrect and use lead sinkers, the hole at the point of the sinker eventually gets battered about and closes. Pushing the paperclip in from the other end opens the hole so you can push line through the next time you want to rig up.[/align]
The Angler's Primary School
Return
[align=left]
[align=left]Right - the paperclip. Once you've finished fishing for the day and you take your terminal tackle apart, there is always the little bit of toothpick that stays behind. Push the paperclip through the sinker from the pointed end and it will push the bit of toothpick out. If you are politically incorrect and use lead sinkers, the hole at the point of the sinker eventually gets battered about and closes. Pushing the paperclip in from the other end opens the hole so you can push line through the next time you want to rig up.[/align]
The Jig!
Return
[font="Trebuchet MS, Arial, Helvetica"]
[/font]
Here's another one for your basic bass angling arsenal. The "Jig 'n Pig" name comes from the fact that many anglers used to (and many still) add a pork trailer to their jig while fishing.
[align=left]The jig consists of four basic components:
1. The Hook
A fairly strong hook is used. As the lure will be used to pitch into timber and brush, a fish that is hooked on a weak hook will have every opportunity to escape if the hook bends as the fish is hauled through this timber. It is also vital to ensure that the hook itself is always kept sharp. There is only one point that will make contact with the fish and you will want to ensure that it is able to penetrate when you strike.[/align]
[align=left]2. The Brush Guard
The Brush Gaurd prevents the jig from hooking into the brush and trees as it is worked through the cover. A tip here is to spread the guard open a little and this will make for an better hook set when striking. Be careful that you don't spread the brush guard too wide open as you will then have the problem of getting stuck on the cover that you are working. You will read that many people advocate that the brush guard be trimmed to a level where the top of the guard is in line with the tip of the hook. Once again, be careful - this will only lead to more chances of the jig getting stuck on the cover.[/align]
[align=left]3. The Rattle
The jig really comes into its own when fishing dirty water. Bass tend to stick closer to cover and pitching a jig is one of the most effective fishing tools in these situations. This is where it is vital to ensure that the jig has a decent rattle on it. If you have bought your jig without a rattle, you can attach a rattle to it by simply sliding the rattle over the point and up the shaft of the jig. These rattles are available from most tackle stores and if you are really stuck you will certainly be able to buy one from BassPro or Cabelas. [/align]
[align=left]4. The Skirt
The final component is the skirt. These are identical to the skirts that are found on spinnerbaits and the colour selection will depend on the water conditions. If you are fishing an area that has crabs / craw in it, match the colour of the skirt to the colour of the bait. An old faithful used by many of the bass pros such as Denny Brauer, and also by many of the local anglers is a plain black or black and blue jig dressed with a black craw with blue pincers or a plain blue trailer. This lure has proved to be deadly in most conditions from murky to crystal clear water. [/align]
[align=left]
Don't be scared to give this lure a try. It is also recognized as a big-fish lure. When you are being pestered by lots of small fish striking your lures, change to a jig and seek out the structure where the lunkers are hiding.[/align]
[align=left]Most of the trailers today are made out of plastic. These don't have the drawback of the pork trailers that will dry out very quickly if left exposed for too long. One word of caution when using plastic trailers - many of these are impregnated with salt and if left on the hook of the jig, will cause the hook to rust extensively. When you are finished fishing for the day, remove the trailer and keep it one side for the next time you go fishing.[/align]
[align=left]Selecting the right trailer for your jig is probably the most important aspect to consider when fishing this lure. I would go so far as to say that even the selection of colour comes second to selecting the optimal trailer to place on the jig. The primary objective when fishing the jig is to place it into the strike zone and to keep it there for as long as possible. There are two alternatives, either downsize the weight and head size of of the jig or increase the size of the trailer.[/align]
[align=left]Water colour is a major factor to take into account: the clearer the water, the smaller the size of the lure that should be used. While fishing stained or murky water, the better option is to increase the size of the lure. Use a 3/8oz jig and attach a large trailer. The jig to the left has a Zoom Super Chunk on as a trailer. The legs on on the Super Chunk have a great action in the water and the bulk on the body provides more resistance during the fall, slowing the bait down as it falls through the strike zone.[/align]
[align=left]While fishing an inter-divisional tournament at Theewaters, Sven Hilland surprised many experienced anglers by adding a full sized Zoom Brushhog to his jig (see photo right). The combination proved devastating as he weighed in a 5 fish bag of 11,05kg and culling a 1,9kg bass in the process. When most anglers were struggling to find a second bass in post-frontal conditions, pitching a bulky bass into the trees proved to be the answer.
[/align]
[align=left]Next time you're struggling to get a decent bite, slow your fishing down and increase your trailer size[/align]
Return
[font="Trebuchet MS, Arial, Helvetica"]
Here's another one for your basic bass angling arsenal. The "Jig 'n Pig" name comes from the fact that many anglers used to (and many still) add a pork trailer to their jig while fishing.
[align=left]The jig consists of four basic components:
1. The Hook
A fairly strong hook is used. As the lure will be used to pitch into timber and brush, a fish that is hooked on a weak hook will have every opportunity to escape if the hook bends as the fish is hauled through this timber. It is also vital to ensure that the hook itself is always kept sharp. There is only one point that will make contact with the fish and you will want to ensure that it is able to penetrate when you strike.[/align]
[align=left]2. The Brush Guard
The Brush Gaurd prevents the jig from hooking into the brush and trees as it is worked through the cover. A tip here is to spread the guard open a little and this will make for an better hook set when striking. Be careful that you don't spread the brush guard too wide open as you will then have the problem of getting stuck on the cover that you are working. You will read that many people advocate that the brush guard be trimmed to a level where the top of the guard is in line with the tip of the hook. Once again, be careful - this will only lead to more chances of the jig getting stuck on the cover.[/align]
[align=left]3. The Rattle
The jig really comes into its own when fishing dirty water. Bass tend to stick closer to cover and pitching a jig is one of the most effective fishing tools in these situations. This is where it is vital to ensure that the jig has a decent rattle on it. If you have bought your jig without a rattle, you can attach a rattle to it by simply sliding the rattle over the point and up the shaft of the jig. These rattles are available from most tackle stores and if you are really stuck you will certainly be able to buy one from BassPro or Cabelas. [/align]
[align=left]4. The Skirt
The final component is the skirt. These are identical to the skirts that are found on spinnerbaits and the colour selection will depend on the water conditions. If you are fishing an area that has crabs / craw in it, match the colour of the skirt to the colour of the bait. An old faithful used by many of the bass pros such as Denny Brauer, and also by many of the local anglers is a plain black or black and blue jig dressed with a black craw with blue pincers or a plain blue trailer. This lure has proved to be deadly in most conditions from murky to crystal clear water. [/align]
[align=left]
[align=left]Most of the trailers today are made out of plastic. These don't have the drawback of the pork trailers that will dry out very quickly if left exposed for too long. One word of caution when using plastic trailers - many of these are impregnated with salt and if left on the hook of the jig, will cause the hook to rust extensively. When you are finished fishing for the day, remove the trailer and keep it one side for the next time you go fishing.[/align]
[align=left]Selecting the right trailer for your jig is probably the most important aspect to consider when fishing this lure. I would go so far as to say that even the selection of colour comes second to selecting the optimal trailer to place on the jig. The primary objective when fishing the jig is to place it into the strike zone and to keep it there for as long as possible. There are two alternatives, either downsize the weight and head size of of the jig or increase the size of the trailer.[/align]
[align=left]Water colour is a major factor to take into account: the clearer the water, the smaller the size of the lure that should be used. While fishing stained or murky water, the better option is to increase the size of the lure. Use a 3/8oz jig and attach a large trailer. The jig to the left has a Zoom Super Chunk on as a trailer. The legs on on the Super Chunk have a great action in the water and the bulk on the body provides more resistance during the fall, slowing the bait down as it falls through the strike zone.[/align]
[align=left]While fishing an inter-divisional tournament at Theewaters, Sven Hilland surprised many experienced anglers by adding a full sized Zoom Brushhog to his jig (see photo right). The combination proved devastating as he weighed in a 5 fish bag of 11,05kg and culling a 1,9kg bass in the process. When most anglers were struggling to find a second bass in post-frontal conditions, pitching a bulky bass into the trees proved to be the answer.
[/align]
[align=left]Next time you're struggling to get a decent bite, slow your fishing down and increase your trailer size[/align]
Mojo Rigging
AROUND MOST OF THE STATE, wintertime bass fishing means downsizing baits, going deep, and moving slow. While finesse fishing is my least favorite way to fish, it is effective and necessary when the water temperature drops and a bass' metabolism slows. Due to the ever-increasing popularity of finesse fishing, multiple companies have introduced products specifically designed for light line and small lures. It is no longer necessary to try to downsize a basic Texas or Carolina rig to entice finicky fish, because products are now in place to make finesse rigs the right way. While this might add a little more weight to the tackle box, it also adds more fish to the livewell.
Illustration by Paul Bradshaw
[line]
One way of rigging finesse baits that has become more prominent over the past few years is with the use of a Mojo weight. A Mojo weight does not have a traditional, round, oval, or bullet shape. Instead, the Mojo is long, thin, and cylindrical. The theory behind the design is that the Mojo is less likely to snag on rocks and brush, and will slide through grass with ease, making it more fishable with light lines. This lets you fish all the places bass hang out with fewer break-offs.
Rigging a Mojo weight isn't that much different from using standard bullet or split shot weights. In fact, you can still use the same rigs you always have in the same locations you always have, you'll just spend less time pulling grass off your line or retying.
The original use of a Mojo weight was on a Carolina rig, and this remains the most popular way to use them. Simply replace the standard 1/2-ounce or larger bullet weight with a 1/4-ounce or smaller Mojo weight. Run the main line through the length of the Mojo weight before tying on a barrel swivel and leader. The Mojo weights come with a tool and plastic strips that can be threaded through the weight in order to peg them in place but realistically a piece of toothpick or thick monofilament will do the same thing.
If you don't want to go through the trouble of tying on a barrel swivel and leader, you can simply slide the weight on the main line then tie on your worm hook. Slide the weight up the line about three feet and then peg it in place. You'll get a little more line twist this way but also have the flexibility of changing the distance between the weight and lure without having to tie on a new leader.
A less often utilized but highly effective use of Mojo weights is on Texas rigs. Since the Mojo doesn't look like the traditionally used bullet weight it is often overlooked but when you are chunking a soft plastic worm around cypress knees or brush the design allows it to bounce around the structure without wedging itself into every knot hole or forked branch. Again, slide the line through the length of the weight before tying on a worm hook.
One of my favorite places to fish for bass during most of the year is along dams covered with riprap. The riprap provides millions of hiding places for baitfishes and crawfish, which in turn attracts the bass. The only problem is it also provides millions of places for lures to hang up or weights to get stuck which means broken lines and multiple re-ties. The folks who created Mojo lures came up with a solution to this problem in the form of the Mojo Rock Hopper weight. The Rock Hopper looks just like the regular Mojo but the hole for the line to run through does not extend the length of the weight but rather just from one side to the other on one end. When the line is threaded through the hole, the weight stands on its end, which does two things. First, it keeps the weight out of the crevices so it will not get hung up as often as other weights. Second, it helps elevate the line above the rocks so that it has a better chance of avoiding rocks that can fray and weaken it. The Rock Hopper works best with a Carolina rig, but it can also be used for Texas rigging and really shines as weight on a drop-shot.
AROUND MOST OF THE STATE, wintertime bass fishing means downsizing baits, going deep, and moving slow. While finesse fishing is my least favorite way to fish, it is effective and necessary when the water temperature drops and a bass' metabolism slows. Due to the ever-increasing popularity of finesse fishing, multiple companies have introduced products specifically designed for light line and small lures. It is no longer necessary to try to downsize a basic Texas or Carolina rig to entice finicky fish, because products are now in place to make finesse rigs the right way. While this might add a little more weight to the tackle box, it also adds more fish to the livewell.
Illustration by Paul Bradshaw
[line]
One way of rigging finesse baits that has become more prominent over the past few years is with the use of a Mojo weight. A Mojo weight does not have a traditional, round, oval, or bullet shape. Instead, the Mojo is long, thin, and cylindrical. The theory behind the design is that the Mojo is less likely to snag on rocks and brush, and will slide through grass with ease, making it more fishable with light lines. This lets you fish all the places bass hang out with fewer break-offs.
Rigging a Mojo weight isn't that much different from using standard bullet or split shot weights. In fact, you can still use the same rigs you always have in the same locations you always have, you'll just spend less time pulling grass off your line or retying.
The original use of a Mojo weight was on a Carolina rig, and this remains the most popular way to use them. Simply replace the standard 1/2-ounce or larger bullet weight with a 1/4-ounce or smaller Mojo weight. Run the main line through the length of the Mojo weight before tying on a barrel swivel and leader. The Mojo weights come with a tool and plastic strips that can be threaded through the weight in order to peg them in place but realistically a piece of toothpick or thick monofilament will do the same thing.
If you don't want to go through the trouble of tying on a barrel swivel and leader, you can simply slide the weight on the main line then tie on your worm hook. Slide the weight up the line about three feet and then peg it in place. You'll get a little more line twist this way but also have the flexibility of changing the distance between the weight and lure without having to tie on a new leader.
A less often utilized but highly effective use of Mojo weights is on Texas rigs. Since the Mojo doesn't look like the traditionally used bullet weight it is often overlooked but when you are chunking a soft plastic worm around cypress knees or brush the design allows it to bounce around the structure without wedging itself into every knot hole or forked branch. Again, slide the line through the length of the weight before tying on a worm hook.
One of my favorite places to fish for bass during most of the year is along dams covered with riprap. The riprap provides millions of hiding places for baitfishes and crawfish, which in turn attracts the bass. The only problem is it also provides millions of places for lures to hang up or weights to get stuck which means broken lines and multiple re-ties. The folks who created Mojo lures came up with a solution to this problem in the form of the Mojo Rock Hopper weight. The Rock Hopper looks just like the regular Mojo but the hole for the line to run through does not extend the length of the weight but rather just from one side to the other on one end. When the line is threaded through the hole, the weight stands on its end, which does two things. First, it keeps the weight out of the crevices so it will not get hung up as often as other weights. Second, it helps elevate the line above the rocks so that it has a better chance of avoiding rocks that can fray and weaken it. The Rock Hopper works best with a Carolina rig, but it can also be used for Texas rigging and really shines as weight on a drop-shot.
100% African
Senior Member
excellent post... Ryan, why not pin this to the top so all newbies/people wanting to recap can check it out...
