I have build a hair-rig that looks like this, this

[Barbelman]

I have build a hair-rig that looks like this, this is my actual rig.
What small changes would you do to it to improve on it? There are a lot of excellent videos on Youtube, but not one of them that I have seen actually mentions the correct length of a hook link, neither how far a sliding sinker must be allowed to slide, hence my following two questions.

1. Is is fine if I make any length hook link between 8cm and 18cm? What length excluding the swivels, will be the absolute best and most reliable?

2. How long should the line be on which the sliding sinker slides? I see on the shop bought rietvlei traces with the plastic mieliebomb holders, that the lengths vary between 16cm to 18cm.  Is this a good length to use on the specimen rig I have built? Or must I make the distance the sinker can travel on the line shorter or longer?
Or should I just use a fixed sinker and not allow the sinker to slide at all?

I believe after this all my newbie questions will be answered.
Thanks a lot!     

 

[deisel]

Your using a small half ounce to 1 ounce lead where in speci much larger sinkers are used to set the hook up to 6 ounces.. Specimen rigs are also alot more camouflaged and are compiled of different lines like lead core and coated hook link to keep the set up stiff and untangled and we'll blended in. Best thing is to fish under a successful specimen angler. You will learn alot

 

[HennieB]

First thing, that rig is unsafe. Reason being there should be no swivel above the weight ever, the weight needs to drop in the event when the line breaks. It is fine to have the weight sliding on the leader line.

 

[TimJan]

Morning

Ok firstly this isn't a safe rig meaning when your main line snaps the sinker cant fall off so the fish will swim around with the sinker in its mouth and can get tangled and die.
Remove the top swiwel and put the sinker straight on your main line.

A better/safer rig to use is the Bolt rig where the sinker will fall off easily.
Attached is a pic posted by lunker on another thread.
This rig wont work with a mushroom sinker.

The length of you hook as a "standard" should be about 18-22cm long

Then another thing that I see allot of specimen anglers do and in my eyes is very wrong is they use 12-18lb main line but their hook links and leaders are 20-25lb meaning that your main line will snap first and not your hook link leaving the fish to drag min 10m of leader around that can get tangled.

Any other questions just ask I am no expert

 

[Barbelman]

Thanks guys.
@deisel. I bought the light weight sinker as I've heard before that a heavy sinker kan tear a hook out of the soft mouth of a carp. I have seen the camo sinkers in the shop but thought they are too heavy, go figure. I will buy them now.

@Hennie. So the length the sinker can slide is then unlimited? If this is correct, I will stop using a swivel over the sinker. I thought it is acceptable as the shop bought traces have swivels above the weights. but I can see why that is a problem. I will change my rig.

 

[Barbelman]

TimJan wrote:

The length of you hook as a "standard" should be about 18-22cm long

Then another thing that I see allot of specimen anglers do and in my eyes is very wrong is they use 12-18lb main line but their hook links and leaders are 20-25lb meaning that your main line will snap first and not your hook link leaving the fish to drag min 10m of leader around that can get tangled.

Any other questions just ask I am no expert

Morning Tim
So my hook links are far to short. I will have to go back to the drawing board.
My mainline is 32kg braid. I must still use it, only spooled in on last night. If it works and I can get along with it, ie no windknots etc, I will use this braid on my other reels as well. I am using Suffix 15kg braid for the hook link lines.

 

[TimJan]

Its cool like I said ALLOT of anglers do it that way.
You still have a good chance that your line will snap on a knot rather than in the middel somewhere.

But your hooklinks must be a bit longer remember if you are fishing in a bit of silt your sinker will sink to the bottom and drag your hook along.

The use of a heavy sinker 4-8oz is to get the hook to set by itself so if the fish picks up your bait the first resistance it gets after 18cm is the weight of your sinker that turns and sets the hook else with a light sinker the fish might pick up the bait and sinker feeling resistance spit out the hook without it setting.

 

[Barbelman]

TimJan wrote:

Its cool like I said ALLOT of anglers do it that way.
You still have a good chance that your line will snap on a knot rather than in the middel somewhere.

But your hooklinks must be a bit longer remember if you are fishing in a bit of silt your sinker will sink to the bottom and drag your hook along.

The use of a heavy sinker 4-8oz is to get the hook to set by itself so if the fish picks up your bait the first resistance it gets after 18cm is the weight of your sinker that turns and sets the hook else with a light sinker the fish might pick up the bait and sinker feeling resistance spit out the hook without it setting.

But then I must not use a sliding sinker setup at all?

 

[EugeneC]

In my humble opinion the rig posted by Deisel is what you should go for Barbelman. That's a basic inline lead system, which is very simple to set up, tangle free and works very well in most situations. As an added bonus you will lose far less weights, which is easier on your wallet and the environment. This is by no means the ultimate specimen set-up, but it's an effective method and easy to use for a beginner in this facet. If you google inline lead systems you will find lots of info on how to use it (very simple) and, more importantly, the mechanics of hooking fish with this set-up, which will give you a foundational understanding of the various lead weight systems you can employ.

Regarding length of hooklink, there are no hard and fast rules. This can get very complicated and you can read lots on this topic alone. A basic rig in my view shouldn't be more than 15 cm long. If fishing over deep silt, go longer. On a hard bottom, especially when you put a bit of feed around the hook bait, go shorter. There are loads of variations and possibilities, but if you identify the conditions you're fishing and apply a little logic, it's pretty straightforward.

Tight lines!

 

[IWyk]

For a simple inline rig yours is fine, just get rid of the swivel above the sinker. The other rigs are more complicated and expensive. When you use the mushroom sinker as you have, then the bom goes on that and the weight is right to cast. Carp in the river don't care about camouflaged sinkers etc.

Keep it simple and start experimenting slowly.

 

[IWyk]

150-200mm for the hook trace is enough, if you make it too long it can tangle on the main line during the cast. Depending on the bom you use, you can wrap the hook line around the bom and push the hook into it before casting.

For a simple rig you are on the right track.

 

[EugeneC]

With due respect, if you are practising specimen tactics to target big fish, then fishing with "bom" is definitely not on the right track. Some of the more advanced tactics and rigs can be a little complicated, but none of it is rocket science, just read up a little and apply some common sense, the rest will come with experience.

 

[IWyk]

EugeneC wrote:

With due respect, if you are practising specimen tactics to target big fish, then fishing with "bom" is definitely not on the right track. Some of the more advanced tactics and rigs can be a little complicated, but none of it is rocket science, just read up a little and apply some common sense, the rest will come with experience.

True and agreed, however for the rig pictured here, with a mushroom sinker,("simple trace"), no problems whatsoever, to put bom on the sinker. PVA bags do not work so well in the river. We use this same trace in the Vaal river and caught plenty bigger fish(7kg plus) on the same trace.

Check out other posts by Barbelman, as well as replies regarding, he has just started out Specimen angling and wants to start out with simple rigs which is the right way to go in my opinion.

Once in the swing of things you can go as complicated or expensive as you desire with specimen angling but start of simple, is what I would suggest.
And as you rightfully say read up on the topic and with time you will see what works for you as you get experience.

http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=100586&forum_id=79&jump_to=1315346#p1315346
http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=100464&forum_id=57&jump_to=1314188#p1314188

 

[Barbelman]

Will my rig be considered safe enough if I make the line that the sinker slides over much lighter poundage than my mainline? Reason is I think I want to make the distance the sinker can move a lot shorter, to kind of be a semi-fixed bolt rig.
I suppose 9.53kg Mono line will be heavy enough and will always break before my 32kg braid mainline will do.

On last thing I was suggested here was to use heavier sinkers. I will get 3X heavier mushroom sinkers.
I don't know if you can notice the sinker is camouflaged? I painted it black so I hope is will stand out less in the water than the shiny new sinkers.

 

[Viv1]

If you want to limit the the weight use a bead to stop it.

 

[Barbelman]

How can you use the bead to do that? I was thinking to use lead shot and crimping it over the line.

 

[KUSAF]

BArbelman just soak your leads in vinegar overnight. Next day they are dull and no shine left on them. No need for painting.