Tutorial: How to make your own trolling lures

So where is the fotos of the fish caught on them

Flippie wrote:

So where is the fotos of the fish caught on them

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will be out there this weekend weather permitting. They haven't seen salt water yet.

Some results of the FIRST day out.












Gees, look how bloody my boat is... ::S

We actually dropped quite a few fish. Only 2 of us onboard.

We were out there yesterday also near that trawler, never saw you.
Loads of Oceanics and small Tuna around and the sea was so flat.

Cpt. Hook wrote:

We were out there yesterday also near that trawler, never saw you.
Loads of Oceanics and small Tuna around and the sea was so flat.

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Picked up a few small fish in that area, wrong timing... We were on our way back from the Billfish grounds 500-600m

WoW!!

Fantastic post Bennie!!

Thanks for sharing, awesome read!!

kaboem wrote:

WoW!!

Fantastic post Bennie!!

Thanks for sharing, awesome read!!

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You are welcome. Thanks for taking the time to read it!

TIP: If you get dirt in your resin, especially in the bottom of the tin. You can use cooking oil filters to filter out the dirt.

Marbled head 1" head diameter - plunger.

Marbled head 41mm diameter.15 degree slant.

Shall we now move to the next step?

Discussing weighting lures and adding ballast.

Am waiting in anticipation ::S

OK, so now we have actually made some really nice fish catching lures. What you will find is the lures so far in this tutorial are perfect for what 90% of us are doing. We are fishing from small ski boats, most of which without outriggers. I wont go into why outriggers and and and but what we know is the lighter lures can be pulled a slower speeds 5-9 knots and they can be put a little further back while still having good action. They are also better suited to calmer conditions that most of us only fish in due to the size of our boats.

I am going to discuss 2 different weights now.

The first is what most of us are custom to. Simply making the lure heavier to suit rough conditions and also faster pulling speeds. It is also best suited to symmetrical lure shapes like conas, pushers and bullets. It basically entails making the insert from lead and it is simple to do. On a personal note though, I think weighting lures are over rated. You end up pulling lures too close to the transom where fish struggle to find them or running to fast. Some of the best lures in the world are completely un weighted. For example, lets consider Marlin Mags 10 top lures of all time. In that list we have the Mould craft super chugger and the Pakula Lumo sprocket, both unweighted. In fact the sprocket actually has buoyancy. We all know the Ilanders and Bobby Browns are deadly - also unweighted. This is because they are extremely versatile lures. Calm condition, close in and when the sea picks up, you can put them further out.

Below is a pic of both plugs we will be using to make the moulds for the weights. In the start of this tutorial we discussed making the inserts from urethane. We are basically going to use the same insert as our plug. The second smaller one in the pic is basically the same insert cut down to leave a half round for locating and gluing it to the plastic tube.

See from post #46


 

I made the moulds the same way I made the head moulds. The only difference is I use mould max 60 for the mould.

You can also use the method described in this tutorial: http://sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=86739&forum_id=78

The hole is there for the steel 4mm rod. The seating for the rod must be at least 30mm to keep it steady while pouring.

Poured lead.

Cleaned it on the belt sander. Takes seconds...

Now you just decorate it like you did the urethane ones. See from post #52

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Here is the other one. Fairly self explanatory but this is what I use in slant heads. It gets glued onto the tube before casting the PU insert over it.