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SEALINE - South African Angling and Boating Community > General Angling Topics > The DIY Forum > Transom replacement | ||||||
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SEALINE - South African Angling and Boating Community > General Angling Topics > The DIY Forum > Transom replacement | ||||||
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| Transom replacement | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 09:55 am |
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1st Post |
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cjcooper Member 
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Hi Guys, Thought I'd post a topic on a rebuild ive got in progress as I couldn't find much info on this types of hulls. This is done by my crew and I in our spare time using basic tools you'll find in your garage, material from your hardware except for the marine ply which was a pain to find in Mpumahlanga. From the start... My partner and I came acros this boat: An old 480 with mid 2k yammie 70 motors. The hull seemed ok and the motors were in great condition. The boat needed some cosmetic work but all in all showed promise. we took her on a 2 week holiday in KZN and she shined. Unfortunately We noticed some cracks on the top edges in the gel coat and had it checked by a knowledgeable person. The verdict was to have the transom resealed as its still healthy but wont stay that way if left as is... Long story short - I had to buy out my partner due to other responsibilities and decided to do the resealing as a winter project.... the reason I mention this is what would have been shared expenses is now on one wallet and I just cant afford a professional rebuild at this point in time. As you could guess ... upon opening tho top side gelcoat... vrot. The old cobra transom is glassed so thick the tapping method to listen for hollow spots was ineffective. The job ahead became clear and Homework needs to start. I did a lot of research on howto's on google and youtube... and spoke to couple of boat mechanics. but very little info in form of a how-to-guide was available to replace a cat's transom. first things first... Reasons not to DIY 1. If I knew then what I know now... I would begged borrowed and stole the money and fork out the 25-35k to a reputable shop and wait for my boat. then again if i had a spare +-R30k laying around I would have had it done professionally anyways. I truly do understand now why a transom rebuild cost so much... 2. You need at least a moderate level of fiberglass knowledge to take on a project like this. If this type of project is your first... don't. You'll probably end up spending more than the original cost. 3. I have a few friends in the trade who's helping with advice as I go along, If you don't have this resource - don't do it yourself. 4. Its a lot of labor and consumes a lot of time. Twice as long as it would take a pro. Anyway this tread should help you to take on a similar project in the future. Attachment: IMG-20170401-WA0001b.jpg (Downloaded 367 times) Last edited on Wed Oct 4th, 2017 03:47 pm by cjcooper |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:02 pm |
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2nd Post |
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cjcooper Member
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Material: Marine ply 15x2400x1200 Marine ply 9x2400x1200 Resin - 15l minimum. Epoxy recommended. Fiber mat. I started with 3kg. will probebly need more. The woven type is recommended. although ive spoken to guys using chop strand only and reinforcing as required. Water proof sealer. I prefer sikaflex as it bond to most materials incl pvc. Acetone Flow coat. Gel coat. Sanding paper. 25x75mm wood for the clamping process. card board or hardboard for your template. masking tape. brass self tapping screws. 4x30mm threader rod 8/10mm plus nuts and large washers. Tools required: Drill - drill bits, rippers, hole saws- various sizes. 115mm grinder , cutting disks, flapper disks various grids. jigsaw. sander. hammer. crowbar. wood chissel. 15mm working well for me. screwdrivers. G-clamps the more the better. measuring tools and rulers. scissors. mixing cups and stirrers... a lot drill mixing tool. can be made but found one at builders for R80. trowel -rounded tip. Stanley knife. putty knife. General tool set. Lifting apparatus for engines. storing bench for engines, built one from scrap metal. Ill ad more as i remember/require them. Attachment: IMG_20170526_163335.jpg (Downloaded 360 times)
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:30 pm |
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3rd Post |
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cjcooper Member
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Starting with the basics. Remove all items connecting to the transom. it helps to take pics for reassembly and use numerous tubs for the different screws ect for later. I decided to strip all stainless fittings off the boat along with the engines and brackets ect. I found a few out of site places where normal screws and nut were used instead of s/s. Im not sure how the layout was for the hatches out the factory originally but it looks like this was changed in the past on this boat. The fuel tanks now resides in the floor hatches in the pontoons and the battery's as well located just to the rear. there are two loose coffin hatches on the deck- empty and no specific fish hatch. the problem I had with the battery below the floor setup was the small amounts of water getting in through the lid and condensating. this more than once required drying and q20 as the wet connection would start the motor. I remember the Acecat 500 had the fish hatches in the floor which could drain out the transom and the fuel was located in the coffin hatch. batteries were located in the false transom. Currently the only drain for the pontoon hatches is straight through the bottom and the battery boxes drains into these as well. these are a pain to drain and clean... I forgot to mention the port pontoon took on some water, about 10-15l a day so I need to find this leak and sort it as well... The console was modified in the past as well so I want to return this to original. There are some other bosveld-engineering done to her as well, Ill update as I cross those bridges.  Attachment: IMG_20161105_131910.jpg (Downloaded 354 times)
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:38 pm |
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4th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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The deak as seen in the prevous post was when we just recieved her, since then wei nstalled the coffin hatckes on the deck and the fish hatch on the rear. also we installed a livewell with two small luna tubes between the transom and the small transom. ill add pics to show some of that installation. Attachment: IMG-20161113-WA0003.jpg (Downloaded 354 times) Last edited on Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:38 pm by cjcooper |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:40 pm |
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5th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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before the livewell Attachment: IMG-20161031-WA0007.jpg (Downloaded 351 times)
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:40 pm |
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6th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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after livewell Attachment: IMG-20170128-WA0005.jpg (Downloaded 351 times) Last edited on Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:41 pm by cjcooper |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:42 pm |
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7th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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and. Attachment: IMG-20170318-WA0013.jpg (Downloaded 353 times) Last edited on Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:42 pm by cjcooper |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:45 pm |
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8th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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stripping everything... Attachment: IMG_20170527_142121.jpg (Downloaded 354 times)
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 01:02 pm |
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9th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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and ready to start... Attachment: IMG-20170624-WA0008.jpeg (Downloaded 351 times)
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 01:13 pm |
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10th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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start by cutting the inside glass layer of the transom taking care not to damage the outside shell. A section of the floor will need to be removed to access the entire transom. We removed the section between the false transom and the transom. the old wood can now be removed layer by layer taking care not to apply too much force as this can damage the outside glass layer as we want to preserve this and just build a new transom into it. the chisel worked well. Attachment: IMG-20170708-WA0001.jpeg (Downloaded 350 times)
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| Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 08:31 pm |
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11th Post |
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willem wikkel spies Moderator 
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nice man, nice kom, post daai pics!!! ons a;lmal weet dis n sh!t job maar iemand moes dit doen. wanneer jy klaar is, weet jy darem dat dit reg is die keer
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| Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 01:43 pm |
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12th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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Jip mr Spies is true on both accounts... Plywood removed on the port side pontoon. It was decided to build the transom in three sections, the middle section will be done last and will be extra reinforced to handle a push plate. The port section after cleaning had a lot of air pockets under the top layer of glass, ground open and sanded smooth. im building up these pocket layer by layer and will sand level again to minimize spaces between the new wood and outer skin. NB remember to wipe the old glass with acetone as this will help a better adhesion to the new glass. Attachment: IMG_20170801_063337.jpg (Downloaded 303 times)
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| Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 01:51 pm |
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13th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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A note for the previous post, when joining sections, you should look at splicing the wood getting maximum strength. Looking at the new wood. Made a cardboard template from the outside reduced it by 5-10mm in the bottom and 5mm on the sides to acount for the rounding on the inside corner. then its just a matter of cutting and fitting and trimming till you get a nice flat fit. this sheet was then used to trace the other two adding 5mm to the top on one and 10mm on the other. to acount for the slight angle the floor meets the transom and ground flat. Attachment: IMG-20170728-WA0011.jpg (Downloaded 301 times)
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| Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 02:04 pm |
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14th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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and refitting again and little more trimming. I plan on making drilling all holes about 5-10mm oversize and then filling it up with the fibre paste mix(Peanut butter). then drilling to actual size.My plan is to create a permanent insulating layer around the wood from any possible penetration points thus extending the life of the transom. The same paste was used to laminate the wood. I used about 20 off brass screws per side on this section (4mmx25mm). Drilled the one layer 3.5 and the other 2mm pilot holes Applied the paste and screwed together. I added some weights on a flat surface for the drying period but be careful not to over tighten and overweight as it will push your glue out. Attachment: IMG-20170725-WA0007.jpg (Downloaded 301 times)
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| Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 06:44 pm |
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15th Post |
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willem wikkel spies Moderator
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so basically you took the wood out from the inside, leaving the hull section in tact? as dit so is, nice man, nice
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| Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 06:49 pm |
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16th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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willem wikkel spies wrote:so basically you took the wood out from the inside, leaving the hull section in tact? Yip die metode op youtube gesien, strip werk vat langer maar ek glo ek gaan dit op maak met die terug sit proses en die hull het nie support nodig om sy shape te hou nie... moet glo support word as mens alles uit sny...veral met monos... Is daar n manier om meer as een foto per post te laai, dan kan ek heelwat meer op sit?
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| Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 07:34 pm |
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17th Post |
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willem wikkel spies Moderator
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nee net een op n slag, ongelukkig. kan werk, die enigste slegte ding is dat jy resin gaan moet ingooi tussen die hout en die bestaande veselgals body. jy kan altyd mat versnipper en dit met resin meng en dan indruk. maar kan nie belowe dat jy tot onder gaan inkom nie.
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| Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 07:45 pm |
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18th Post |
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willem wikkel spies Moderator
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of jy sal n paste moet maak met gesnipperde veselglas, dit oppi bord sit en dan vas trek teen die transom gedeelte tot dit uitpeel. n halwe kg resin paste gaan nie n verskil maak nie.
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| Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 07:53 pm |
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19th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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Yes die paste rigting is my plan, gaan lekker dik paste, op die plank en hull en dit wat uitpeel geruik ek om die hoeke mooi af te rond om die mat makliker te maak in die hoeke. 
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| Posted: Wed Oct 4th, 2017 03:57 pm |
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20th Post |
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cjcooper Member
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Note the pre-drilled holes. Drilled oversize. casted with the resin paste and re-drilled to the correct size. This ensures a insulating layer between the wood and future leaks at the bolts. This might be overkill but I promised myself - this will be my last transom rebuild... Attachment: 8.jpg (Downloaded 230 times)
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