Hi Guys. So this is my first post on sealine si

mark norval

Sealiner
Thank for the kind words guys.
These were time consuming, binding took a day to do on one rod, 4days per rod!!!! Usually I turn 5rods a day.
 

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grootvis

Sealiner
Nice work again Mark,

Just a question, the one rod looks like it has a Daiwa logo? Is that one of thenew Saltist rods? It appears to have a Permagloss coating of sorts, does it come like that? The raw blanks would be so much better if its a factory rod.
 

mark norval

Sealiner
grootvis wrote:
Nice work again Mark,

Just a question, the one rod looks like it has a Daiwa logo? Is that one of thenew Saltist rods? It appears to have a Permagloss coating of sorts, does it come like that? The raw blanks would be so much better if its a factory rod.

Hi Grootvis. all I did on rods was rebind and marbling. its factory rods Saltiga, comes with the gloss finish
 

kaspaas

Sealiner
Oops...I seemed to have deleted not only the pic attached to my post, but sommer the text also.

Anyway, what I was trying to say, was that I take a whole week to do the guides on a rod. Main reason is because I frequently have to redo wrapping when I accidentally cut the thread when I try to cut thread ends (of inlays) flush on the main wrapping's thread.

I inevitably also end up with little lumps after I did the epoxy layer because of the very small thread ends that I couldn't force in between the main thread after cutting the ends off. Only solution is then to wait for the epoxy to dry and to cut out all such lumps and then to redo the epoxy. This is however expensive and adds weight to the rod.
I thought preventing bubbles would be a problem. Not so. Those bloody small lumps is my problem.

I have watched all the you tube clips in this regard. I know they say you should work it under the main thread when you "buff" the thread afterwards to even it out, but I battle to get it right. Maybe my wrapping is too tight...
See the little piece of silver thread on the pic.
 

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mark norval

Sealiner
Hi Kaspaas.

Best way to hide the tag ends with an under wrap is to get the tags under the over wrap. Bind from left inward bind off under over wrap then from right inward and it should meet the other side under the over wrap. Time will drop an wraps with time and experiance, I have done thousands of guide binds and this is second nature to me. Normal rod binds take about 30min to bind rod.

On multiple inlays I use a long piece so only one tag would be at the start of the wrap, tape the long piece on the further end of the blank so it doesnt wrap around the blank when you do the wrap, preventing you to turn rod back to untangle it.

With tag ends tug on it to get it straight under the thread, this allows for easier and neater cut. If any threads still prevail burn them with a flash of flame, lighter works just dont keep it there! quick brush.

if any lumps after epoxy. Wait till dry and cut off and recoat. The second coat uses a third of the epoxy you would have in the first round, Or you can do the first coat very thin letting all the threads still show, then cut and add second coat, you should use same amount of epoxy you did on first round. 10ml epoxy should cover a 14' rod with 8 guides +tip.

UNDERBINDS?
Ads weight - 3times the thread 3times the epoxy.
Only use on boat rods for conventional reels and grinder rods with double foot guides. This is there to prevent the guide foot digging into the rod under load.
That said...I DO NOT grind guides down on feet!!!!! This in my books is a BIG no no, it makes sharp edges and that cuts into rod blanks seen this on grinder and multiplier rods plenty times, If you do grind it make sure there are no sharp edges and take the time to file it down smooth.
If I do an under binds on multiplier rods I only bind the section between guides and then the foot guides to meet with the center bind. Gives the same look with half the weight added.

YouTube the crap out of anything you are not sure of literately 100's of videos explaining allot of little tricks, and you learn from mistakes even more when they cost you money!

Hope this helps a bit!!!
 

kaspaas

Sealiner
Thanks for the pointers, Mark. So you suggest I have all the threads used in a specific wrap to run all the way through to the other end of the guide's wrapping? In the pic shown of one of my wraps, it would mean that the red, silver and black will run all the way? Could work, although its going to use additional thread and one will have the tell-tale lines seen under the wrap where the thread runs under the wrapping.

With regards to under and over wrapping...I rather like the visual depth it provides when you place the guide on top of the under wrapping. But I realise it probably is a luxury that one would not use if you consider costs and weight. The rod in my pic is a 11' heavy duty spinning rod that I use with a coffee grinder with braid. 

Normally I don't like the "skimpy" look of only wrapping the guides' foot pieces. This is why I continue with my wrapping all the way through and obviously also the reason for an under and over wrap. In your first picture on this thread it appears you used blue, silver and black. You probably only wrapped the feet and filled the space between with marbling. You probably also didn't take the wrapping right through from one foot to the other, but rather cut it and hid the ends under the marbling?

I also don't grind the feet of guides. I would however lightly sand any sharp edges that might cause problems at a later stage. In any event, my experience is that high quality guides normally do not need to have work done to have a flush fitting on the blank.

Oh...and with regards to YouTube vids...you have no idea how many clips I have viewed and even downloaded on computer! The internet is a wonderful thing. he he
 

mark norval

Sealiner
kaspaas wrote:
Thanks for the pointers, Mark. So you suggest I have all the threads used in a specific wrap to run all the way through to the other end of the guide's wrapping? In the pic shown of one of my wraps, it would mean that the red, silver and black will run all the way? Could work, although its going to use additional thread and one will have the tell-tale lines seen under the wrap where the thread runs under the wrapping.

With regards to under and over wrapping...I rather like the visual depth it provides when you place the guide on top of the under wrapping. But I realise it probably is a luxury that one would not use if you consider costs and weight. The rod in my pic is a 11' heavy duty spinning rod that I use with a coffee grinder with braid. 

Normally I don't like the "skimpy" look of only wrapping the guides' foot pieces. This is why I continue with my wrapping all the way through and obviously also the reason for an under and over wrap. In your first picture on this thread it appears you used blue, silver and black. You probably only wrapped the feet and filled the space between with marbling. You probably also didn't take the wrapping right through from one foot to the other, but rather cut it and hid the ends under the marbling?

I also don't grind the feet of guides. I would however lightly sand any sharp edges that might cause problems at a later stage. In any event, my experience is that high quality guides normally do not need to have work done to have a flush fitting on the blank.

Oh...and with regards to YouTube vids...you have no idea how many clips I have viewed and even downloaded on computer! The internet is a wonderful thing. he he

The thread under the bind wont be seen once epoxy is over.

The blue silver black- marbling gets done first, Its thinner than the tread with no thread under it, straight to blank. once dry guide gets wrapped, nothing hidden under marbling. The blue gets wrapped then tag gets binded under the remaining wrap, the silver is a long piece rather than having several tags to cut off, 3 coats of epoxy in a surtan sequence and not over the complete guide bind at once
 
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