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SPINNING WITH BRAID - Filling the spool correctly  Rating:  Rating
 
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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 12:44 pm
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Enigma
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I've had a large amount of anglers approach me with frustration and anger etched all over their faces.

Many are selling new spinning tackle or simply giving it away and resorting back to mono on a multiplier or spinning reel because it's getting expensive throwing lures away.

Wind knots are not only caused by wind or casting they are caused more in the retrieve.

Braid does not stretch do it does not tension onto the spool, wrap 50 coils of nylon lightly around your finger and watch your finger turn blue, each coil adds a tiny bit of pressure whereas braid will not do this.

With the lure retrieve your erratic action causes the braid to be laid on under different tensions and on the next cast with an over filled or filled to the limit reel the tighter coil will pull the deeper loose coil off causing that dreaded wind knot that wraps around the guides (yes here the wind helps by wrapping the coils around the guide.

To be able to cast with absolute confidence (given that you have a well set up spinning setup) make sure the braid is spooled tightly and that the braid is 1mm inside the rim of the spool. In the event of the spool having an angled lip (like on many Shimano's) then 1mm inside the beginning of the angled edge.

Here are some photo's that I took of Shimano spinning reels as used by the Shimano staff (reels at the Shimano show stall) This would be the most I would spool my reels.

This bit of exposed lip of the reel stops the tighter loop pulling the loose loop over the edge of the spool and into the guides.

Being confident that you will now not get "FRAPS" (line wraps on the guides)means you can really cast hard and add 20m to the cast, and even if you lose 5m because of a less filled reel you have a net gain of 15m and more fishing pleasure with no lost lures.

(Add K series or Low Riders and the FRAPS reduce even more)

Attachment: IMG-20130818-00369.jpg (Downloaded 3518 times)

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 12:46 pm
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Enigma
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Attachment: IMG-20130818-00372.jpg (Downloaded 3504 times)

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 12:48 pm
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Enigma
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Attachment: IMG-20130818-00373.jpg (Downloaded 3496 times)

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 12:49 pm
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Enigma
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If you were jigging with these reel's you could probably fill it to the brim because there is no high speed line ripping of the rod.

Before this get's complicated as to all the different dynamics.

Spool the braid on super tight to make sure it lays properly and please do not use Graphite or ABS spools for braid spinning, you will end up popping the spool some time and losing all the braid on the spool.

This is a Dummys guide with a layman's explanation to help you get started and get to love the sensation of spinning on braid. You can fine tune and tweak all the settings and spool filling when you develop skills in spinning with the braid.

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 12:57 pm
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Psy
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Thanks Enigma ((goodp_

::tight:

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 01:52 pm
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Strepie
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Excellent post!

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 01:59 pm
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CharlesF
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Great post Enigma.

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 02:24 pm
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$harkBait1
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((goodp_((goodp_((goodp_:thankie

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 02:42 pm
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AYOBA!
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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 03:37 pm
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Jakes 10
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Thanks Enigma, I've been battling this same problem.

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 06:45 pm
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RuggedChris
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K series and Low riders...? Are these different guides?

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 07:17 pm
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Enigma
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Fuji Low Rider






Fuji K Series

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 07:28 pm
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Enigma
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I am doing some projects at the moment and am going to test and quantify by means of casting (myself and a number of anglers, in among them 7 Protea Anglers)

In the one I have 3 rods of the same brand for 0.30mm with Spinning reel. I will be laying the guides out on the rod according to the blank action and curvature. We'll then test the rods and determine final placing to prevent line slap on the blank.

Then all 3 rods will be cast 70+ times with the same weight and exact same reel and exact same line under same weather conditions and the best 10 and worst 10 casts negated and the average of the balance of casts taken and then the 3 different configurations compared.

One will be Fuji K Series - #40 - 16 and 16 tip

Low Riders BLCAG - #20 - #12 with #16 tip - due to layout of the blank a bigger tip is advised to keep the line flowing through the center of the tip as it leaves the rod

SeaGuide, Guides as on Shimano Tribal starting from #50 - #16 with #16 tip

The other 2 rods will be on TV some time early summer and they are being built and tested with the Shimano Bullseye. Same process will be followed and a 7oz dummy rig cast on a Low Rider setup - #20 - 12 with 16 tip and the other with High frame K series. Same testing and comparison and assembly

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 07:39 pm
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joshua02
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enigma i cant wait to see the results for your tests.

good luck

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2013 08:54 pm
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u.r.s.4
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I bought a grinder and a rod set up for a grinder, first cast, snap off and a huge knot in the braid; second cast two eyes below the tip gone and a huge knot in the braid; put that set up away and back to the overhead. After this post I can see where I was going wrong, will try again, cheers.

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 Posted: Thu Aug 22nd, 2013 07:36 am
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Ant86
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The Shimano spool lip design also makes a world of difference when spinning with braid

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 Posted: Thu Aug 22nd, 2013 07:42 am
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Marthin
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are certain braids more prone to windknots than others?

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 Posted: Thu Aug 22nd, 2013 08:23 am
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Enigma
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Softer braids are more prone, especially on an overfilled reel. More so than for example fireline.

Thinner braids also more than thick braids.

For that reason with thinner braid I underfill by 2mm and can cast all day and as hard or as gentle as I want to with no worries.

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 Posted: Thu Aug 22nd, 2013 08:44 am
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BTTB
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I went over to a grinder a year ago, specifically to target Yellowtail on the boat, so far my experience has been with 30lb Power Pro and 40lb Jerry Brown hollow core, as yet I have had no wind knots. I suspect it was because I never filled the spools too much, also that hollow core braid is very soft. it flies (loads) off the spool perfectly.

My biggest issue has been more with looping the braid over the front of the spool at the full extent of my cast and the very next cast it burns the loop off resulting in you having a break quite a long way down the line.
As much as you check for these things they still happen every now and then, usually when you in a shoal of fish and have the fever.

I suspect the design of some spools could be an issue, the Stradic and especially the Aceration I use has this protruding drag thumb screw which is the main reason for the loop developing in the first place in my opinion. This only happens every now and then, any one got any tips on how to avoid this problem.

Last edited on Thu Aug 22nd, 2013 10:37 am by BTTB

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 Posted: Thu Aug 22nd, 2013 10:43 am
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rbacht
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"Many are selling new spinning tackle or simply giving it away and resorting back to mono on a multiplier or spinning reel because it's getting expensive throwing lures away."

That's me.... thanks for the info. Casting lures miles into the ocean isn't much fun when they never return.

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