Rod building supplies

mark norval

Sealiner
You can contact enigma on the forum he will have all you need and he is in jhb I get most my stuff from him. His shop is called cds angling. Will post his number tomorrow.
 

mark norval

Sealiner
You can contact enigma on the forum he will have all you need and he is in jhb I get most my stuff from him. His shop is called cds angling. Will post his number tomorrow.
 

Enigma

Moderator
I help out but the Kingfisher and Mia's Wholesale, Blue Marlin are suppliers of rod building components but in limited ranges.

Your local tackle dealer can order, reel seats, fuji and pac bay guides as well as some generic's guides as well as EVA and some threads

I do a range of Generic Low Riders and retail the abovementioned suppliers products and also do monthly orders through mudhole wholesale where I can help and save you on shipping
 

dorsalfin

Sealiner
Thanks enigma, I did send you an email with my final order but Im still waiting on a reply on that email but thanks for all your assistance thus far, would not have even started to rebuild some rods if it wasnt for the assistance and help from you guys here on sealine.
 

Zeynul Monier

New member
Hi from Cape Town.
Do you still do rid building.
I'm looking for heat shrink for the rod handle in red please.
I have the 28mm heat shrink however I'm looking for a thicker diameter.
Please advise.
 

Mr Twist

New member
HI Guys,
reviving this thread. im looking for rob building materials- mainly thread. im building a few rods from fly rods to 15 foot surf rods. im looking for A B and D thread.
i have very old thread and kak colours :)

Would like to support local but i may have to import.

regards
 

Enigma

Moderator
Your local tackleshop or we can add to our orders or just import.

Make sure they are silicone and oil free threads
 

Mr Twist

New member
HI enigma-
i email you this morning before i saw this-
what brand of thread is the best? i used to use Gudebrod but i dont think they exist. then the thread- with color preserver or not?

regards
 

Enigma

Moderator
I prefer ProWrap.

Gudebrod went bankrupt and since then they were relaunched under Fuji threads

Pro Wrap comes in NCP (No colour preserver is pre-treated with preserver) and standard nylon.

Best colour preserver is Gripseal Clear wood sealer from your hardware store. Clean and without residue. best applied in 2 coats
 

Mr Twist

New member
Hey Enigma,
Trust that you are well?
Wanted to ask what epoxy is best, i have Flex coat high build but would like to try the threadmaster pr procoat.
i know i can thin out FC but id rather not..?
do you know anyone in SA who will have stock or do you perhaps have stock?

regards
 

Enigma

Moderator
It's more than double the price of flexcoat. If you want to pay I have both the others but be warned they release a lot of fumes and take much longer to dry.

Not necessary to thin FL. Put the first layer on very thin just enough to wet the threads and don't coat it all.

Once it has gelled and not cured use a very sharp blade to trim any burrs apply the last coat.

Clean, light and clear finish.
 

Mr Twist

New member
Thank you,
that is what i have been doing. i also try trim after the CP has dried.
what about flex coat light?

regards
 

Enigma

Moderator
Different concept altogether nothing like Threadmaster or any of the others.

What is the reason you are looking to change up?

I very, VERY seldom use CP. even more seldom NCP Threads, basically only if I need to preserve a very light or very light or very bright colour.

I've used all the different brands and combinations. A mix of the 2 you metioned gives the clearest finish but with it comes a price.

The only locally available thread epoxy which makes it half the price of all the others.

This is a huge consideration when you're running a setup like ours when you have to coat and get 40=60 rods a week through the dryers. There isn't time for 2 coats
 

Mr Twist

New member
Well, im not building rods commercially, it just a hobby right now. i have completed all the surf rods my dad was busy with and i have re done one bass rod. ive put together 3 rods from the parts/blank sections we had here... no im looking to get a lighter finish on the guides. i have ordered a bass blank and components that i will build a unique rod for myself.
The threads i have are OLD and i used cp on all the rods so far. the FC has even yellowed in the bottle but comes out clear. i did a test run on some white thread. no colour distortion. i was just curious on other epoxy products.
Can you email the prices i have sent you email.

im only working on one rod at a time so like i said... no pressure to be efficient. just want the best/clearest epoxy i can get... and less bubbles... :)
 

Enigma

Moderator
Bubbles are all in the mixing.

Stand the epoxy bottles in boiled water to allow them to heat up thouroughly. Thins out.

Stir with the back end of the of your paint brush. Stir in Fig 8 pattern and then circular motion. It will make bright stripes a d then clear again.


Stir slowly and dont which the epoxy. Take 3-5 minutes to gently and evenly stir it an and there will be no bubbles.

Use a hair dryer or heatgun on low setting to gently and indirectly blow on the epoxy to remove all bubbles.

Then use your brush every 15 min after applying to level and thin the surface epoxy.

After 45 to 60min it will be thick enough and stay in place level and thin.
 

Mr Twist

New member
"Then use your brush every 15 min after applying to level and thin the surface epoxy."

this is the only step i dont use. ive mixed the epoxy very slowly and i still get those TINY bubbles... but they do tend to pop when i use a hair dryer... thinking of building a mixing machine.

i also dont "paint" the epoxy on... i tend to just move it around and let it self level...
 
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