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 Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 04:54 pm
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Foxstrike
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Nice progress.. Sanding is a shitty job and fibre glass work is not for ryobi etc. I have a makita sander that has done 3 boats

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 Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 05:24 pm
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Big Mic
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Also started glassing the nidacore sheets - this was my first attempt ever at fiberglassing anything!

It turned out alright for my first attempt I think...

On the nidacore sheet I used 410gsm Biaxial woven fiberglass sheeting, the stuffs a pleasure to work with - literally no stray fibers or mess! I used approximately 2250g of resin plus 2% catalyst per side of sheet.

I also put peelply over the wet glass - I doubt I will be doing this for the remaining 9 sheets ( works out to 95 rand a sheet) the idea behind it is that after you peel it off once dry it imparts a rough finish into the resin so you do not need to sand it down again when you need to apply another layer of glass after you cut the sheet into whatever it needs to become - bulkhead, stinger, deck etc...

Tip : when mixing the resin and catalyst I used a cheap electronic scale I bought at Crazy Store to get an accurate ratio of resin to catalyst ( I added 2% MEKP as it was an average temperature and I was working in the shade).

For application of resin I used a big yellow spatula thing to spread the resin over the nida sheet evenly and an aluminium roller to roll out any air pockets and to make sure the fiberglass adheres to the sheet nicely after application. Both items available at the composite shop AERONTEC.

Sorry about a whole lot of boring info but hey maybe it helps someone else πŸ‘πŸ»

Attachment: IMG-20190827-WA0010.jpeg (Downloaded 177 times)

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 Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 05:30 pm
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Big Mic
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Foxstrike wrote:
Nice progress.. Sanding is a shitty job and fibre glass work is not for ryobi etc. I have a makita sander that has done 3 boats

Thanks FS, I agree 100% it's a shitty job and definitely not for the likes of ryobi..

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 Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 05:38 pm
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Foxstrike
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Use a mo hair paint roller to apply the resin on the nidacore. Also try covering the nidacore first with just resin and let it set. Then put the cloth on. The nidacore gets too heavy when you press the resin through the cloth into the cavities of the nidacore. The cloth on the pic doesnt look saturated as i suspect the resin flowed through the cloth. Remember every kg of resin is a kg you add to the boat.. Just a tip that i found worked the best

Last edited on Tue Aug 27th, 2019 05:42 pm by Foxstrike

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 Posted: Thu Sep 5th, 2019 07:02 pm
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Big Mic
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So just an update on the build

The hull has been glassed with 2 layers of 450 chop strand throughout as well as 2 additional layer strips running along the keels.

We are currently busy with the transom - just needs to be glassed over tomorrow. Transom consists of 1 layer glass, 1x21mm marine ply section, 1 layer glass, 1 x21mm marine ply section and we will put about 4 or 5 layers of glass over all of that tomorrow with all of the above being in position.

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 Posted: Thu Sep 5th, 2019 07:04 pm
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Big Mic
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The hull after glassing, can feel quite a difference in rigidity. She's solid now!

Attachment: IMG_20190905_134409.jpg (Downloaded 136 times)

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 Posted: Thu Sep 5th, 2019 07:07 pm
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Big Mic
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First half of the transom in place.

Attachment: IMG_20190905_134417.jpg (Downloaded 136 times)

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 Posted: Fri Sep 20th, 2019 05:22 pm
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Big Mic
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Transverse Frames installed

Attachment: IMG_20190920_135537.jpg (Downloaded 91 times)

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 Posted: Fri Sep 20th, 2019 05:32 pm
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Big Mic
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Transom is also complete with flared stainless tubes epoxied in for the bungs.

The transom thickness came out at approximately 60mm after all the glass layers over and between the marine ply sections.

Attachment: IMG_20190913_122431.jpg (Downloaded 91 times)

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 Posted: Sun Sep 22nd, 2019 12:02 pm
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willem wikkel spies
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nice!!!
well done so far.
yip, fiberglass is not for the faint hearted!!!

so are you foam filling or sondor blocks?

I see some other boats in the back ground!!!
whats going on with them?

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 Posted: Sun Sep 22nd, 2019 06:03 pm
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Big Mic
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willem wikkel spies wrote:
nice!!!
well done so far.
yip, fiberglass is not for the faint hearted!!!

so are you foam filling or sondor blocks?

I see some other boats in the back ground!!!
whats going on with them?


Thanks Willem!
Fiberglass work is one hell of a thing - I've really enjoyed the work so far and have learned a heck of a lot but will be very happy when the glass work is complete. Luckily I've been working under a local boat builders instruction and assistance which has made the process relatively easy thus far.

I've decided to put sondor foam in and I managed to buy a whole load of "reject" buns from sondor for a bargain.

The other boats in that yard are mostly junk piles with exception of the large cape craft that's on its side in one of the pics - that's the boat the boat builder is currently busy with - a complete rebuild ( now this was proper hard work - glad I had nothing to do with that one...)

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 Posted: Sun Sep 22nd, 2019 06:10 pm
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willem wikkel spies
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ok nice.
did sondor give you a certificate to certify that the "rejects" still complies with regulations?

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 Posted: Mon Sep 23rd, 2019 05:16 am
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Fin-S
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How is the new transom tied into the hull? I would add in some reinforcing if not already there.
Butt looking good!

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 Posted: Mon Sep 23rd, 2019 03:42 pm
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Big Mic
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willem wikkel spies wrote:
ok nice.
did sondor give you a certificate to certify that the "rejects" still complies with regulations?


They did not, they only told me that verbally and said the only reason it's termed reject is due to the cosmetic defects ( blowouts in the foam or misalignment in the mold etc).

I don't think there should be any issues with the foam I got from them..most of the 100mm sheets are near perfect.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 23rd, 2019 04:49 pm
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Big Mic
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Fin-S wrote:
How is the new transom tied into the hull? I would add in some reinforcing if not already there.
Butt looking good!


Hi Fin-S, the transom is built into the existing transom glass and gel coat shape to keep the angle the same as manufacturing spec.

We put wet glass sheets between the original fiberglass transom shape and the first 21mm marine ply cutout - we sandwiched this together by using a lot of self tapping screws with big washers from the outside. We then repeated this process from the inside with the next section of 21mm ply.

Once that has all cured we glassed the entire transom structure, both sides with the inside fiberglass sheets extending about 200mm onto the hull structure to make a strong joint. So the glass forms one continuous layer from inside over the top and onto the entire outside of the existing transom fiberglass shape...hope that makes senseπŸ˜…

Further reinforcement I guess will be the longitudinal bulkheads that will meet the transom and be fixed to that.

Any further ideas? You reckon what we have done so far is sufficient or maybe needs additional reinforcement?

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 Posted: Mon Sep 23rd, 2019 04:58 pm
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Foxstrike
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Looking good so far and neat. I reckon its fine. You dont see any newly built boats that bolt the wood to the transom so glass nd resin is more then enough

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 Posted: Mon Sep 23rd, 2019 06:48 pm
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Big Mic
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Thanks Foxstrike πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ‘πŸ» the new transom is certainly a lot stronger than what was originally on the boat. This was basically a single scaffold plank lol.

I've unfortunately (fortunately as messing around with boats is pretty expensive) got to leave to Angola tomorrow for a month of work so wont be able to personally work on the boat for a while now but my boat building friend will continue the project..

I've ordered a new top deck and Centre console from the butt cat factory so once the deck is on we will be fitting those... Can't wait!

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 Posted: Mon Sep 23rd, 2019 06:51 pm
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Foxstrike
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Are you getting a pre manufactured deck?

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 Posted: Tue Sep 24th, 2019 10:19 am
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Big Mic
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The main deck will be 20mm nidacore sheets - all I'm getting from butt cat out the mold will be the raised gunnels with the anchor/nose section ( I think I may have referred to this as the top deck - my terminology might be a bit off)... I will also be getting a standard centre console.

I won't be having any under deck plumbing or cabling so the boat will be essentially a big surfboard.

I'm going for a basic practical build, something that's hopefully visually pleasing on the eye but built for the purpose of fishing, with a lot of that being spinning for yellowtail.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 24th, 2019 11:29 am
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Foxstrike
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I wanted to buy a raised gunnel for my ace but it costs 12k just for the gunne

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