Newbie grinder fishing

Henco

New member
Hi, everyone I've been a member for a while, but this is my first post.
I recently bought a new rod while fishing at Hentiesbaai. I was wondering if anyone could give their views on it.I bought it as i had a 10ft rod at that time and struggled to get the distance needed. I caught a few cob on it all small.

I will be switching from mono to braid and would like some help with that. With regards to leaders and strength of braid for edible fishing suited for the assassin sabre surf 13ft spin. It throws a 3-5oz sinker.

do i need a leader tied to braid to swivel and then to sinker and hook, or braid to swivel to sinker?
 

flippy

Sealiner
I bought the Assassin Bluefish yesterday.. very nicely made up rod but opted for the 12ft Sabre for application i had in mind.. with change i opted for Power Pro 30lb Super Slick 8 for my reel to fish on the Sabre

reel i will use id the budget priced Nasci 5000 from Shimano that has Hagane gears, X -ship or seals in place plus carbon drag that for me is important.. at R1500 a lot of reel for the price but small compared to other brands 5k size reels

other reel i will recommend is the Penn Conflict 5000 with HT-100 drag and good cranking power.. about R900 more than the Nasci

braid wise definitely at least 30lb and for casting the Power Pro and abrasion the Suffix 832.. not saying the Power Pro does not have abrasion resistance i still need to fish it.. both similarly priced with the Power Pro slightly more in hi viz yellow so i can see the braid

can use a leader yes and use the fg knot.. lots of tuts on youtube

proof is in the pudding https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Nkt21-1768&t=13s
 

flippy

Sealiner
personally don't use a leader but with the heavier Sabre will suggest a leader as it casts 5oz plus bait.. plus have a look at the Spyker knot rather as its much smaller that will go through the guides better and not nip a finger if caught as bad.. check the knots section there is a tut on how to do the knot that i use with my heavier multiplier setup also thats quick to tie.. you might want to use a longer leader thats on the spool but see what works for you

spyker knot http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=41669&forum_id=44

will recommend a finger glove when casting the heavier sinkers also
 

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N1ck

New member
Hi Henco - if I understand your question correctly... this is my experience and answer, for edibles and sharks etc the go to braid strength is 50lb (45lb is also fine)
ill recommend JDB braid, its bang for buck the best braid in my opinion and experience - but Skinny Boss braid is also making a good name and J braid... its just expensive... so we do hunt for that bargain braid... then the other problem or thing to look out for is the thickness of braid.... its preferable that your braid is not thicker than 0.25mm - once again my opinion. - ok this is for the main line...

then leader - for edibles - 120lb is perfect. - once again JDB has a good selection

then knots - braid to braid = FG knot - just youtube it...
i do a full braid leader no nylon - only nylon on my trace.
then length, the braid needs to be 2- 3 turns on your spool with the trace attached at cast length (if that makes sense..)

oh and leader to trace as always a swivel
 

Henco

New member
N1ck wrote:
Hi Henco - if I understand your question correctly... this is my experience and answer, for edibles and sharks etc the go to braid strength is 50lb (45lb is also fine)
ill recommend JDB braid, its bang for buck the best braid in my opinion and experience - but Skinny Boss braid is also making a good name and J braid... its just expensive... so we do hunt for that bargain braid... then the other problem or thing to look out for is the thickness of braid.... its preferable that your braid is not thicker than 0.25mm - once again my opinion. - ok this is for the main line...

then leader - for edibles - 120lb is perfect. - once again JDB has a good selection

then knots - braid to braid = FG knot - just youtube it...
i do a full braid leader no nylon - only nylon on my trace.
then length, the braid needs to be 2- 3 turns on your spool with the trace attached at cast length (if that makes sense..)

oh and leader to trace as always a swivel

Thank you!
So the mainline do not connect directly to the swivel and terminal tackle. The leader is just to protect against rocks and things the line might rub against as the mainline braid is to thin and will get cut off?

So if i get stuck, how do i ensure the sinker break off and not the expensive braid?
 
That's easy, just use a light sinker trace and a little twine on the sinker between it and line to stop casting off sinker from rockrash. The hard part is breaking off with heavy enough braid and a heavier braid leader and your hook gets stuck! Eish..you need to keep a small stainless rod with for that..I've injured myself badly breaking off 80lb braid with a 150lb stitched leader and 1mm mono on the end of that..I fish mono mostly now in the sea unless spinning for elf or leeries.

For old time sake I took my light 30lb braid outfit to scratch for cob this week..what a nightmare, made me remember why I switched to mono for the bait haha..tying FG after FG in the wind when you just want to have a bait out gets tired quickly haha. When your hook gets stuck 3 times in a row now matter how you make the trace on braid you just want to throw in the towel haha..With mono at that point I'm just onto tying charter special rigs with no swivels and have a bait wet in a minute or two, if I had pretied traces with it takes even less time.

But a tip with the braid, if you get broken off and have to rety and then again and it gets old, take your braid and make a loop and go around and double through itself, wet and pull tight. Loop that onto swivel and your trace and fish on. I was a sceptic but that knot is stronger than most in braid for me, a mate once adamantly tried to prove it to me and did, and it is just weaker than mainline so will break off there and not waste braid. But it is strong enough to pull fish hard. Only loop in braid that I've found stronger than that simple knot is a stitched loop, which is stronger than your line and would not work here as you would break off you line somewhere higher up then and waste braid and pollute.
 
good advise already.

just a note:
on leaders, I prefer to stay outside the guides when using thicker mono.
they have a horrible slap against rod and guides when coming off the spool, so causing you some frustrations.

so if you want a leader, use braid.

HMP braid is good bang for your buck, stay with 50lb.
it is also a 8 weave.

yip, make sure the sinker line is the weak point!
 

RotsRot

New member
Excellent advice from N1ck and Willem.

The 120lb leader is great for abrasion between bricks yes, but also withstands the friction / abrasion from your bionic finger for longer.

So many choices with braid these days, and not many that are really a bad buy. All round JDB my favourite in terms of cost vs quality. Suffix 832 is incredibly strong and durable, but pricey and a little thick for it's strength (but I've read a few reports stating they underquote hectically, eg. their 50lb is actually more like 70lb) - excellent between the bricks. Whiplash is extremely good but also pricey - very thin and soft, casts a mile - excellent on sand where you want distance.

One point I differ on from N1ck - I still have about 1.2m shockleader between my braid leader and trace (0.7-0.8mm), this is really just personal preference. I guess the reason I like it is two of my three r&s set ups are rather stiff rods, so it justs gives me a touch of stretch in the cast / when fighting a fish. I've also cast my terminal tackle off too many times without it. This Knot (braid to mono leader) NEVER goes through my eyes. I also do FG, but Alberto is quick / easy and solid enough with such strong line - I'll do this when have to replace on the beach / in the wind / in a hurry, I just do less turns, 5 rather than the standard 7, as the lines are so thick).
Also, regarding braid leader, I know one should only have 2 or 3 turns on your reel when casting, I'm a little lazy though - I make it longer so don't have to replace the whole braid leader as often - 6-8 turns. This of course gets whittled down slowly from one session to the next. I've never had any problem at all with a snag / wind knot or anything, think it just costs you a meter or two of distance?

Weak points - weaker sinker line very important as mentioned. Can even tie a granny knot in the line just above the sinker to weaken it further. Hook snood - circle hooks minimize snagging on hook snood, if you ok with that rather than j's. But otherwise, I find a snood of equal / slightly lesser strength than you mainline (eg. 40lb vs 50lb) with a figure-8 knot to swivel, 99% of time you will break off at that swivel knot.
 

flippy

Sealiner
RotsRot wrote:
Excellent advice from N1ck and Willem.

The 120lb leader is great for abrasion between bricks yes, but also withstands the friction / abrasion from your bionic finger for longer.

So many choices with braid these days, and not many that are really a bad buy. All round JDB my favourite in terms of cost vs quality. Suffix 832 is incredibly strong and durable, but pricey and a little thick for it's strength (but I've read a few reports stating they underquote hectically, eg. their 50lb is actually more like 70lb) - excellent between the bricks. Whiplash is extremely good but also pricey - very thin and soft, casts a mile - excellent on sand where you want distance.

One point I differ on from N1ck - I still have about 1.2m shockleader between my braid leader and trace (0.7-0.8mm), this is really just personal preference. I guess the reason I like it is two of my three r&s set ups are rather stiff rods, so it justs gives me a touch of stretch in the cast / when fighting a fish. I've also cast my terminal tackle off too many times without it. This Knot (braid to mono leader) NEVER goes through my eyes. I also do FG, but Alberto is quick / easy and solid enough with such strong line - I'll do this when have to replace on the beach / in the wind / in a hurry, I just do less turns, 5 rather than the standard 7, as the lines are so thick).
Also, regarding braid leader, I know one should only have 2 or 3 turns on your reel when casting, I'm a little lazy though - I make it longer so don't have to replace the whole braid leader as often - 6-8 turns. This of course gets whittled down slowly from one session to the next. I've never had any problem at all with a snag / wind knot or anything, think it just costs you a meter or two of distance?

Weak points - weaker sinker line very important as mentioned. Can even tie a granny knot in the line just above the sinker to weaken it further. Hook snood - circle hooks minimize snagging on hook snood, if you ok with that rather than j's. But otherwise, I find a snood of equal / slightly lesser strength than you mainline (eg. 40lb vs 50lb) with a figure-8 knot to swivel, 99% of time you will break off at that swivel knot.

i will ignore this advice :shock:
 

JeandlH

New member
RotsRot wrote:
Excellent advice from N1ck and Willem.

The 120lb leader is great for abrasion between bricks yes, but also withstands the friction / abrasion from your bionic finger for longer.

So many choices with braid these days, and not many that are really a bad buy. All round JDB my favourite in terms of cost vs quality. Suffix 832 is incredibly strong and durable, but pricey and a little thick for it's strength (but I've read a few reports stating they underquote hectically, eg. their 50lb is actually more like 70lb) - excellent between the bricks. Whiplash is extremely good but also pricey - very thin and soft, casts a mile - excellent on sand where you want distance.

One point I differ on from N1ck - I still have about 1.2m shockleader between my braid leader and trace (0.7-0.8mm), this is really just personal preference. I guess the reason I like it is two of my three r&s set ups are rather stiff rods, so it justs gives me a touch of stretch in the cast / when fighting a fish. I've also cast my terminal tackle off too many times without it. This Knot (braid to mono leader) NEVER goes through my eyes. I also do FG, but Alberto is quick / easy and solid enough with such strong line - I'll do this when have to replace on the beach / in the wind / in a hurry, I just do less turns, 5 rather than the standard 7, as the lines are so thick).
Also, regarding braid leader, I know one should only have 2 or 3 turns on your reel when casting, I'm a little lazy though - I make it longer so don't have to replace the whole braid leader as often - 6-8 turns. This of course gets whittled down slowly from one session to the next. I've never had any problem at all with a snag / wind knot or anything, think it just costs you a meter or two of distance?

Weak points - weaker sinker line very important as mentioned. Can even tie a granny knot in the line just above the sinker to weaken it further. Hook snood - circle hooks minimize snagging on hook snood, if you ok with that rather than j's. But otherwise, I find a snood of equal / slightly lesser strength than you mainline (eg. 40lb vs 50lb) with a figure-8 knot to swivel, 99% of time you will break off at that swivel knot.
Great advice! I also use a short Fluoro or Mono leader of about 0.70-0.80mm.
 

flippy

Sealiner
took the Sabre for a test drive today.. can't get used to the bionic finger timing but rod casts well.. got about a dozen live mullet with the cast net plus some excellent pilchard and squid but my buddy got a big smooth hound i think on the live mullet fishing my other combo of Regiment and Conflict while the Sabre stood still.. rod casts well with backbone thats for sure.. rod guides does not like thick leaders
 

Henco

New member
Thanks for all the info!
With exams finally finished I'm shopping around for a reel. I saw a pen Pursuit 3 which is decently priced, is it worth it?

Would a 6000 or 8000 be better suited for my rod?
 
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