Long Term rebuild on my New (OLD) Duck

Skeltonsc

Member
I bought a bigger Rubber Duck after upgrading from my 4.2m Gemini.

I sold the Gemini but kept my motor and Controls as I had already paid a deposit on 2 more Johnsons of the same year.

The boat is a Aquarius 5.5m Cat hull Rubber Duck, the Hull is in need of some TLC but I only paid R10k with the for it and the pontoons don't leak at all.

I bought 2 1981 Johnson 60HP Motors from Durban Yamaha (thanx Malcom you're a champ)

I paid next to nothing for them with controls and having exactly the same motor at home gives me 3 complete running motors of the same year and model number.

I always knew that the motors would need work and I'm budgeting around 15k for the Refurb of the motors and Boat as all the labor will be done by me.

the plan is to get the boat running and seaworthy by December this year so there is no rush to get things done.

I made a list of the things that will have to be done

1. Strip motors and Gearboxes replace seals and impellers
2. open water passages in motor to remove and visible Salt deposits.
3. install new thermostats
4. Make up new Wiring harnesses for motors - the current wires insulation is crumbling off.
5. Sand and Paint motors, repair crack on Cowling.
6. Get Original Decal Kits for the 1981 Motors
7, Sand Hull and paint ( not exactly sure what paint yet) will be the same colour as motors the Johnson White.
8. Strip sand and paint control boxes then grease components before fitting.
9. Make new Seats and have them covered.
10. Install batteries and fuel tanks
11. Finish off with new fittings to hull Tow Eyes etc
12. Cut and replace some sections of the Trailer to get the Break neck working again.
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
This weekend I decided to take off the Gearboxes to check the Water pumps.

The Starboard motor had been dripping gearbox oil so I knew the seals would need replacing.

I removed all the bolts and gearbox Shift rod linkage and tried pulling off the gearbox, the
damm thing would just not budge. I tried jumping up and down on the gear case to get it to release
and come off. I tried wedging a chisel behind the water pump to force it down and stil the dam thing
would not release the driveshaft from the crank.

I did try and hit the front wing with a hammer only to break off a chunk. I will have this welded back on
before I paint the gearboxes.

I then sat down had a cigarette and a coffee and thought maybe I should start the motor and just let the vibration
work things loose.

so I got the muffs made up a makeshift fuel line and started the motor with jumper cables.

The motor fired right up so that was a very good sign ;) and there was a strong stream of water from the tell tale :)

After about 10 minutes of idling the gearbox simply fell down :)
;)

The port engine required very little effort to release the gearbox.
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
heres a pic of the motor running with the gearbox just hanging on the driveshaft.
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
here are some of the bolts I'm going to have to deal with, this is going to test my patience:uzi
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
Today I removed the Waterpumps and Shift covers, the one gearbox had some oil in it but the starboard one had jelly and water.

Looks like I'm going to have to pull the bearing carrier and replace the bearings

How much lateral play can the driveshaft have? the good gearbox has the same play as the rusted bearing?

The seals are shot and certainly need replacement, the O-ring on the shift rod was broken and rock hard
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
Because the lateral play is the same on both bearings I'm considering just washing the gearbox out with petrol cleaning the driveshaft with emery cloth and installing new seals and O rings 

Both Water pump housings Cups and plates have little to no wear on them, I will replace the impellers not because they are worn because they are actually quite soft and still have many hours left in them but simply because the hard work to get to them has already been done.:)

the Gearboxes are smooth and both shift with no effort  and also spin without and funny noises. So I don't thing there is any damage to the bearings inside the gearcase.

I'm very worried to pull the bearing carriers out on these old motors as they spent their lives in salt water and I would probably end up cracking the casings.

I will remove and replace the Propshaft seals without removing the carrier. I'm pretty sure this can be done effectively if care is taken not to nick the propshaft.

Tomorrow I will start sourcing seals and O rings, I still need to find a suppler that wont shaft me for the impellers, I think I paid R800 for one for my old motor about 2 years ago. wont buy from them again.

I'm going to look at Bearing man for Seals, I will just ask for ones with Stainless springs or maybe replace the mild steel springs with skinny O-rings to get the seal tension required.

The whole point of the exercise is to get a reliable boat for little money.
 

A1ex

New member
Wow goodluck!

This is a big job,for example if you think its going to take you 400hours it will end up taking 800, if you think its gonna cost you R1000 its gonna end up at R5000. Just bear this in mind and you will be free of any frustration.

At the end when you take her for her first test run, there is nothing more rewarding. All that hard work pays off.

Also very important make sure you starting with a good hull, it will be all for nothing if only at the end you find out your bulkheads and stringers(below deck) are frot or the hull has a crack in it, or your deck has gone pap.

So I would start with going through all that before you start worrying too much about the motors. Make sure the hull is 100%
 

Skeltonsc

Member
Thanx for the Vote of Confidence, I spent many hours going over the hull, there are a few nicks and scratches but nothing that cannot be repaired, as for the Deck she is very solid no soft spots etc.

The transom also looks solid enough when I drilled the holes to check all looks good.

So the main thing is Motors, Seats and sanding prep and paint.

The main reason for selling the old duck was that the pontoons were Glued and used to have to be re glued after every trip in different places, and the boat was a little cramped when having 3 adults on board. also the Scuppers were way below the water line so when you stopped the boat would fill up with water, nice in Summer, not so nice in May in Gauteng.
 
So I figured I could spend R15k getting it repontooned and still sit with the water issues and cramped space or go for something a bit bigger.

So far I've paid R10k for the boat and trailer and R8k for the motors.

I figure if I chuck in another 15k to 20k I should be ok.

The one good thing is the thermo welded pontoons don't leak at all, I last pumped them in December after checking the Baffles and valves.

Lots of cosmetic work but nothing I cannot handle,
 

Skeltonsc

Member
Howzit Guys,

Well I phoned around looking for gearbox seals and the agents are crazy for the price of an Oil seal - In excess of R1600 for
Seals and gaskets that I need.

I went to Bearing Man with a sample and got a Quote of R270, they just need to confirm that the Springs are infact Stainless Steel, If not they say they can certainly source what I need.

Gaskets I will make my own _seal1__seal1__seal1_
 
nice, it is a hard work and a expensive job!!!

it will cost plenty a penny.
hope you come away cheaply.

doing it by your self doing right the first time is the way to go.

remember that boats should be bought viewing the motors and the hull comes second.

but the hull should be sound to.

out there, if you are stranded you might be all alone for a long time.
there is no quick tow in service like road side.

enjoy the build, please post em some more pictures
 

Skeltonsc

Member
Howzit Guys,

Just a quick update,

I got the new seals for the gearboxes and installed them, I did however not replace the rusty bearing
in the one as I don't have the correct tools to do that job correctly, however I'm pretty confidant that the bearing is fine.

I also reinstalled the old impellers as they are still in really good condition.

Also scored some Rims for the trailer and 2 very good used tyres from my Father in law (he cannot wait to go fishing again)

I also mounted the controls onto the boat and setup the cables.

Now I have to wait for PayDay, the boat will have to take a break as I'm also redoing my motorcycle engine which seized a month ago.

Bike parts are bloody expensive
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
Have lots of holes to patch and get cable wrap to cover the spiderweb of cables running to the motors
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
Will be running a slightly lower profile  as the Boats Roll bar is very high and it just clears the garage door roof, so if I can drop the trailer by 2 or 3 cm then Bonus
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
So this weekend was a bit quiet on the boat front, I spent a couple of hours removing the Cowling latches as they had seized in the fittings and would not turn.

I got 3 of them out without 2 much effort but there will always be one that will stuff around:X

Ended up drilling a 8mm hole in the side next to the blocked grease nipple thingy spraying q-20 into the hole and that allowed me to start turning the latch and work it out.
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
Also spent some time lying on my back under the boat inspecting the trailer,

I see I'm going to have to learn how to weld:?

there are a few patches that need to be cut out and replaced

I'm wondering if its not simpler to make a much lighter trailer?

is a break neck trailer really required what are the benefits of a break neck trailer for fresh water applications? or boat ramp?
 

rianc

Member
I personally do not see any benefit to have a breakneck trailer for fresh water dams or lakes. Unless you go to a secluded spot where no one has launched before, water might be very shallow to get you boat afloat from the trailer. But with normal launch pads, you do not need it! I have never broke my trailer at any dam, the only time was to get it of the trailer to be placed on tyres to refurbish the hull on my Ace Craft.
 

Skeltonsc

Member
Howzit Guys,
Been a while to update regarding my boat as it has had to take a back seat while I repair my Motorcycle which had run bearings.
Today I ordered 2 Tacho meters online for R358 each, I hope to get them in a month or so but I also ordered some electrical plugs which I need to connect the Controls to the outboards as the original wiring looms are shot.
So I ordered these ;);) simply because they are cheap, and will work for what I need. I will be redoing the looms on the outboards because the original ones are over 35 years old and the insulation is crumbling, the Stator and CDI wires are still good though.
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
here is a pick of the Tacho meters that I ordered, has anyone used these before?
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
Howzit Guys,
 
Well Winter has now come and gone, I finally got my Rev counters delivered they landed in SA on the 22 May and only arrived last week, however I have now cut and fitted them into the console.
 
As for the hull I’ve patched the holes in the console, removed the Steel keel strips and resealed each and every screw hole. I however didn’t silicone the hole strip on yet as I want to paint the Hull.
 
I’ve also started sanding the outboard covers and getting things slowly ready for paint, I have a feeling it will take another good few months before I get her on the water.
 
As usual life gets in the way and there is not always money for the boat. But she’s getting there slowly.
 
But on the bright side I bought a second motorcycle and my Seized Suzuki is now working again after overhauling the engine then the gearbox (a small fortune) luckily I can do that kind of work myself.
 
  1. I have purchased new fuel tanks,[/*]got some cork gasket and made new carb gaskets[/*]re sealed keel strips, will seal properly with sikaflex once I have painted the hull.[/*]Patched numerous holes in the console[/*]Fitted the steering[/*]Cleaned and greased the steering bearings on the motors as well and worked the motors free on the tilt tubes.[/*]Made up the seat base for the forward seat[/*]
 
I still have a long way to go and will realistically only be finished in time for next year summer. But I’m not letting that get me down.
 

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Skeltonsc

Member
What you end up doing instead of boating :shock:
 

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